mercoledì 1 agosto 2012

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mercoledì 1 agosto 2012
mercoledì 1 agosto 2012
Rassegna del 01/08/2012
DALL'ESTERO
Daily News
Le Devoir
Destination
Weddings &
Honeymoons
The Edmonton Sun
The Peak
The Toronto Star
Watch! CBS
Magazine
Naples with everything
...
Trieste, pas tour à fait l'Italie...et pas vraiment ailleurs
...
The italian insider
...
My best laid plans go sideways in Italy
...
Amo l'Italia!
...
A roller-coaster f a cruise in Italy
...
A taste of Puglia
...
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Trieste tout au nord est de l Italie offre un dépaysement intéressant à mi chemin entre la belle vie à l italienne et les traditions d Europe centrale Il faut y boire
un bon café et ensuite viendra l apéro sur les rives de la mer Adriatique
EUROPE
Trieste pas tout à fait l Italie
et pas vraiment ailleurs
la bora un vent qui peut être polite qui a façonné le visage de
terrible on y trouve la même Trieste Personne n est complè
aussi un peu de Vienne douceur de vivre qu ailleurs en tement italien à Trieste sou
Pourtant nous sommes bien en Italie avec notamment le ri ligne ma guide Analisa
Italie à Trieste cette ville prati tuej de hpasseggiata
À l heure de l apéro les Guerres et occupations
quement entourée par la Slové
Restée autrichienne
nie Il y a un je ne sais quoi Triestins se réunissent devant
dans l architecture dans l allure un Spritz Aperol cocktail à jusqu en 1918 malgré quelques
des Triestins et dans la cuisine base d Aperol de prosecco brèves interruptions elle n est
redevenue véritablement ita
qui rappelle l Europe centrale
d eau pétillante ou de soda et
Comme Vienne Trieste a d une tranche d orange agré lienne qu en 1954 après les
son lot de cafés historiques menté d adorables petits sand guerres et les occupations
Tommaseo San Marco degli wiches ou simplement de pa dont une assez sanglante des
armées de Tito en mai 1945
Specchi où on vient lire le tatine croustilles
Parmi les curiosités à dé
journal rencontrer des amis
Ce Spritz est proche parent
couvrir
dans la ville la splen
ou refaire le monde Ici le cap
puccino ne s appelle pas mé du Spritzer inventé par les Au dide place de l Unité d Italie
lange comme en Autriche trichiens qui habitués au vin les ruines romaines de l an
mais capo in B
capo léger de leur pays auraient tique Tergeste et le train à
étant le diminutif de cappuc mis de l eau de Seltz dans ce crémaillère qui mène à la
cino et in B pour in bic lui plus costaud qu on leur Strada Napoleonica
servait à Trieste
chiere puisqu il est servi dans
James Joyce l a aimée Sten
La position de Trieste à dhal pas du tout Et moi Oh
un verre Comme à Vienne il
l extrémité nord est de
est souvent accompagné d un
oui Un ami italien me l avait
l Italie n explique pas tout prédit Tu vas aimer Trieste
petit verre d eau minérale
Rivale de Venise située de
Trieste est d ailleurs la capi
Les Triestins sont très gentils Et
l autre côté de la baie la
tale italienne du café avec les
ils boivent beaucoup
installations de l usine Illy sur ville s est mise sous la protec
Oui ils sont très gentils Je
tion des Habsbourg pour n ai pas remarqué qu ils bu
ses hauteurs
échapper à la domination de la vaient comme des Polonais
Choucroute et Aperol
Sérénissime Port franc et seule
Ici on peut même manger ouverture sur la mer de l Em mais moi c est à Trieste que j ai
de la choucroute avec un as pire autrichien sa prospérité a développé une sérieuse dépen
sortiment de viandes dans un attiré une immigration cosmo dance au Spritz Aperol
petit resto traditionnel Da
LOUISE GABOURY
II y a un peu de Prague ici et
Collaboratrice
Peppi Buffet Pourtant malgré
Le Devoir
Parmi les curiosités de la ville
la place de l Unité d Italie
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A voir et à faire dans les environs
Visiter le château de Mira
mare construit au milieu du
XIXe siècle pour l archiduc
Maximilien qui fut fusillé au
Mexique quelques années
plus tard Le château a ensuite
accueilli Amedeo de Savoie
duc d Aoste C est l un des
sites les plus visités de l Italie
Sissi y a peut être dormi
Se promener sur le sentier
Rilke qui longe la mer
Découvrir Aquileia un des
plus importants sites archéo
logiques du nord de l Italie
Se rendre à la charmante sta
tion balnéaire de Grado
Faire un détour dans le petit
village de Muggia
Visiter la Gratta Gigante qui
comme son nom l indique est
l une des plus grandes d Europe
Le capo in B joli diminutif pour un simple cappuccino servi
dans un verre dans l un des multiples cafés historiques de Trieste
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PHOTOS LOUISE GABOURY
Trieste rivale de Venise et seule ouverture sur la mer sous l Empire autrichien Cette ville italienne
se situe dans le nord est du pays pratiquement entourée par la Slovénie
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My best laid plans
go sideways in Italy
though little of it went as
planned
My original intention was
to spend most of these 11
days cycling through Tuscany
Research on the Internet pro
vided several options and no
shortage of companies offer
ing fully guided tours of the
Chianti countryside
It s 6 30 a m Saturday as I
write this column from Flor
ence Italy I am sitting in a
quaint little pasticceria a
neighbourhood coffee shop
on the Piazza San Marco
Business is already brisk
I ve been here less than 15
minutes and so far dozens of
locals have streamed through
the door for their morning
espresso and the melt in your
mouth pastries sfoglia pap
pataci treccine ricottini and
fiocco Hard to describe but all
indescribably delicious
It s going to be hard to leave
Italy tomorrow This has been
a remarkable vacation even
arms flailing he shouted at
me in Italian Apparently my
question was the equivalent of
a tourist in Edmonton asking
for directions to
Alberta
Anyway with that lit
tle detail sorted out and my
chargecard number on file
I was soon pedaling my way
out of town happily thinking
And then I noticed some
What a beautiful day for a
thing called a self guided tour bike ride in Tuscany
Hey that sounds like fun
An hour later I was won
Training for my epic go it dering what the hell I d gotten
alone adventure started back
myself into
home with a month of daily
Tuscany as it turns out is the
cycling
from my house to Italian word for hills Actually
West Edmonton Mall from my the proper translation is enor
house to Sorrentino s from
mous very steep hills that go
my house to Boston Pizza I only one direction UP
even bought a backpack with a
In no time at all my water
three litre water bladder and a
was gone my heart was pound
fancy new helmet
ing out of my chest my legs had
And so when I arrived at the
some weird little quiver thing
bike shop in Florence last week going on and I was soaked
to pick up my rental I felt well in sweat like I ve never been
prepared That is until I asked soaked And I wasn t even rid
the guy behind the counter for ing my bike I was pushing it
directions to Tuscany
First I pushed it uphill to
With a long ashed cigarette
dangling from his lips and
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SUPPLIED PHOTO
Chef Luigi Corciulo of the famed CIAK restaurant in
Monterosso Italy is happy business is back to normal
following last year s floods in Cinque Terra
Strada then uphill to Cintoia thought about curling up under I able to coast right into Siena
then uphill to Lucolena then an olive tree for the night until but right to the train station I
on up to Mount St Michelle I remembered the movie Under took that as an omen bought
the word Mount should have the Tuscan Sun and that scene
been a giveaway
I later about the scorpions
learn that this is the highest
Dehydrated and delirious I
point in the Chianti region
pushed on
How is it I wondered as I
And then another village
plodded uphill waiting no this one called Radda and a
praying for a full blown car change of fortune
diac arrest that my 10 pound
The nice lady in the soap
backpack could now feel like shop not only had a room for
100 pounds
rent but for 40 it came with a
By 4 p m I was done and private bath and stunning views
decided take a room in the next
of the Chiant hillside a patch
village But that was not to be work quilt of lemon groves
July is a busy time in Italy and olive orchards and ancient
people from around the world vineyards I stayed two nights
had already booked ALL the
The ride from Radda to
rooms in ALL the villages I know Siena was thank God mostly
now how Joseph and Mary felt downhill Which was a good
a ticket back to Florence and
a few hours later dropped the
bike off at the rental shop
Another inexpensive train
ticket and by day s end I was
in a town called Monterosso
one of the five ancient fishing
villages of the Cinque Terra on
the Italian Riviera My wish is
that everyone could experi
ence this place For three days I
hiked swam in the sea and ate
the best seafood in the world
And now I m back in Florence
for a weekend of sightseeing
before heading home I m on my
second espresso my third pas
try and studying a map already
Pushing on literally and thing my bike chain broke at planning next year s trip back
with the sun going down I the halfway point Not only was Maybe I ll rent a Vespa
Ciao
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Great Summer Getaways
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Dine alfresco before the Temple to Ancient Rome’s gods, the Pantheon.
Amo l'Italia!
What is it that has long made Italy one of the world’s most beloved holiday destinations?
Is it the wonderful warmth of the people? The fabulous food? The legendary brand name
shopping? The amazing history? The stunning scenery? Noted travel writer and Italy
expert Maria Lisella takes PEAK readers on a personal tour of bella Italia!
When I first found out as a student that I was going to
Rimini, Italy, I pictured myself sunning on its shores alongside
characters out of the famed Italian director Fellini’s bittersweet
and rambunctious movie, Amacord, which was set against the
peak of Fascism in Italy in the 1930s. In it, the townspeople of
Rimini are larger than life, eccentric. They go about their daily
lives – births, weddings, funerals — with the kind of zest and
passion one envies. They represented Fellini’s childhood told
with nothing less than undying love.
My summer school in Rimini was not like this. The closest I got
to Fellini was his ancient art teacher who was among the faculty at
our little school where I learned about Sicilian literature and about
“real” Italian food.
Even the simple meals served in our dining hall were
presented with flair, beauty and full-bodied taste. The portions
were modest, a pizza never arrived with three pounds of
mozzarella on it and yes, we drank wine with meals — not in a
dark bar to get drunk but to compliment lunch or dinner.
Cheese was often served with fruit at the end of a meal, but
meals began with a primo piatto (first dish) of pasta or minestra
(soup), followed by a secondo or main course of vegetables and
meat or fish, followed by a salad. And we did not gain weight
– because Italians eat in moderation – desserts were only for
Sundays, fruit would end the meal or maybe an espresso.
Set on the Adriatic, Rimini is one of the most popular seaside
towns in all of Europe, consequently, it was always crowded,
at that time the European Union was not posting blue flags of
approval on beaches as it does now, and I never quite got the
hang of how one rents an umbrella, and owns a spot on the
beach all season. In other words it was a bit less glamorous than I’d
anticipated, but it was after all, Italy.
I just about never went to the beach, but instead sipped
cappuccino in cafes for hours (the same cup because if it is
anything you learn in Italy it is how to take pleasure in the smallest
delights), smoked harsh cigarettes and tried to imitate the Italians
— that is, I wore lots of scarves and sunglasses.
A coastal town in the region of Emilia Romagna (Italy has 20
regions), now famous for the recent earthquakes that have shaken
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Great Summer Getaways
Oltrarno in Florence), or the sestiere (six districts) in Venice, but
this depends on when you travel – in summer, cities and sites are
crowded, so you may want to do what the natives do – get out of
town, a possibility that can be accommodated within your twoweek stay.
The array of optional daytrips is dizzying and depends how
much time you want to spend traveling out of town: from Rome,
visitors are known to book trips as far as Pompeii (a very long
day but rewarding) for instance, or closer, to the Villa d’Este,
Tivoli or Ostia Antica; to Siena, San Gimignano, Perugia, Assisi or
Fiesole just above Florence; and out of Venice, to Padua with its
Scrovengi Chapel, Treviso’s radicchio festival, the Palladio Villas of
Vicenza, or, the Roman Arena of Verona.
Knowing some of the language will enrich your experience,
but don’t let this keep you home. Much of the language barrier
has fallen away in the most visited places but learn a few polite
and useful phrases: Grazie, Prego, Buon giorno, Buona sera,
adestra, sinistra (right and left) and the useful, “Dove’è si trova...”
Where would one find? (Yes, bring a dictionary or download an
application on your handheld device.)
The best time to visit Italy is when you can go - there is
no perfect season in Italy — every season has its belle cose da fare
– beautiful things to do. Summers can be hot, but works well with
work schedules and school holidays.
Fall and Spring are ideal – the weather is mild; and winter is
tricky – a bit rainy, chilly but each city brims with so many cultural
events such as Carnevale in Venice, the night air tends to be misty,
adding to the city’s enchantment; Opera in La Scala Milan and the
bittersweetness of Christmas displays and Nativity scenes for which
Naples is famous.
You will likely land in either Rome or Milan – both airports have
rail transportation into the city or in Milan’s case, to Venice. Don’t try
to drive the minute you step off a plane.
Passengers frequently do a double-take at the sight of the
Italo’s low nose, deep-red livery and sleek interiors that seem like a
first cousin to Ferrari cars. The train interiors, styled by a celebrated
design house offers three different classes of travel. A special
cinema coach is attached at one end of the convoy while Italo
lounges but feel free to book a private cabin and ride in comfort
rather than haggle with Italians on the Autostrada.
The present road network was developed through the
centuries, with rail systems expanding rapidly in the 19th century
and air travel in the 21st. Although over the past 30 years, Italy
built most of its present modern airports, with an impressive web
of expressways, Autostradas, Superstradas and secondary, scenic
roads, it is simple and quick to roam from one place to another
within a 14-day stay and easier still to do so by train.
If you want to fly from city to city on wheels stop in Ferrari
to visit the home of the Italian Stallion of Italian sport cars at
the factory that creates those sleek animals on wheels. Or whiz
through Italy from the comfortable seat of an Italian bullet
train like the Italo, introduced late last year. A fleet of 25 trains
links Turin in the north with Salerno in southern Italy, via Milan,
Rome and Naples, as well as Venice with Rome, at a speed of
300 kilometers or 186 miles per hour
No matter how well organized you are, you will get lost
— sometimes while you are hungry – making you and everyone
in your party cranky. Turn these experiences into accidental
discoveries -- you will be in a place you have never been before,
where ordinary things have the power to fascinate. Just take a peek
at the doorknockers that adorn entrances on Venice’s small streets.
Everything in Fellini’s Amacord is just a little bigger than
life, more dramatic than it really is, which is a bit like memories.
Everything in Italy is a bit like that too, so leave the pace of your
daily life behind; but do bring your practical side: comfortable
shoes, money belts, street smarts and an open heart.
82 the peak JUly 2012
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Date: 28.07.2012
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A roller coaster of a cruise in Italy
Royal Clipper is fast
tall and relaxing when
Mother Nature behaves
DIANE TIERNEY
SPECIAL TO THE STAR
ALONG THE COAST OF ITALY Despite
countless martinis my cruise
friend couldn t shake the anxiety of
sailing on the Royal Clipper one of
the fastest tall ships in the world
He gripped his bar stool like it was
alifelineandfocusedonkeeping his
stomach from lurching
I suggested we go to the top deck
to look at the horizon but he
wouldn tbudge Ithoughttheships
motion was only rocking slightly
but he was as my kids say totally
freaked out
It was the first day of a seven day
cruise in Italy and he was deter
mined to prove that his queasiness
was mind over matter He owns a
40 foot powerboat and has boated
for 20 years but a sailing yacht of
this size was no comparison
The Royal Clipper is a tall ship
with five masts and 42 sails It holds
227 passengers and 106 crew Built
in 2000 and styled after the famous
1902 Preussen its one of three sail
ing yachts of the Star Clippers
cruise line
We were sailing the Mediterra
nean Sea from Rome to Sicily down
the magnificent Amalfi Coast Its a
unique sailing experience thats not
for everyone If you get seasick
claustrophobia or vertigo its not a
ship for you This 5000 tonne ship
doesn t have stabilizers like the big
cruise ships it slices through the
waves like a torpedo Depending on
what mood Mother Nature is in it
can be sweet calm sailing or a roll
er coaster ride
As we left port I was fascinated
watching the crew hoist the sails to
the music of Vivaldi reverberating
through the speaker system And
although I saw this performance
daily it never ceased to provide an
exhilaration of tall ship sailing The
atmosphere gave me a sense of
what it must have been like to be
Christopher Columbus or another
world explorer
When there is no wind the Royal
Clipper is a luxurious fancy yacht
thats hiding powerful engines and
modern technology to keep the
ship forging ahead We try to sail
under wind power for at least 50
per cent of the time and can sail at
Nearby Positano is said to be the
most beautiful fishing village in the
Mediterranean It was featured in
Under the Tuscan Sun Here we
bought tea towels and ceramic
mugs andsatonthe beachwatching
kids throw stones in water
Taormina is perched on the side of
Mt Etna and has winding streets
about 22 knots says First Officer
Julien Giroux from Montreal We
have 56000 square feet of sail
In calm waters passengers can
don safety harnesses and climb the
mast to the Crow s Nest for incred
ible views The tallest mast is 60
metres At the bow there is a huge
rope hammock suspended over the
water so you can crawl out and
watch the ship cut through the
waves below
Every day is spent at a different
port exploring cathedrals beaches
andenjoyingaPinotGrigioatacafé
an amphitheatre souvenir shops
and spectacular views of the sea
below We enjoyed a gelato in the
piazza where painters set up their
easels Musicians strolled from one
café to another
In Lipari we climbed narrow
streets to the medieval castle then
walked down to a secluded beach
Nearby Isola Stromboli features
volcanic fireworks best seen at
night from the ship
For evenings back on board there
is a luxurious two level dining
room as well as a couple of bars
lounges a library spa three pools
and gym
The ship is 133 metres long so
thereareplentyofplaces torelaxon
a lounge chair with a book or just
stare at the stars Luxury cabins are
decorated in rich nautical style
with highly polished woods brass
accents andplush navybluecarpet
While my friend enjoyed the ports
of call immensely
probably be
cause he was so thankful to get off
the ship he did eventually findhis
sea legs
But by then it was time to go
home and he was wobbly for days
back on land
The beauty of small ship sailing is
that we visited ports the big cruise
ships can t access The towns we
visited weren t flooded with thou
sands of passengers Ports of calls
included Ponza Sorrento Capri
Amalfi Positano Taormina and
Lipari
Ponza is a small fishing village
withpastel paintedhouses thatrise
from the busy harbour in terraced
rows Sleekyachtsandrusticfishing
boats moor beside each other We
found a café and watched fisher
men unloading their catch
Sorrento overlooks the Bay of Na
ples We marvelled at the million
dollar yachts and bought leather
goods such as sandals a belt and
purse The town is also famous for
intricate wooden marquetry A
popular shore excursion from here
is Pompeii a fascinating site of vol
canic ruin
Amalfi showcases its medieval
glory with churches and cobble
stoned streets
Diane Tierney is a freelance writer
based in Oakville
JUST THE FACTS
Prices for a seven night Mediter
ranean cruise along the Amalfi
Coast on the Royal Clipper start
at 1 983 per person based on
double occupancy A seven night
Caribbean cruise on the Royal
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The Toronto Star (Metro)
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Clipper starts at 1 455 per per
son Call 800 442 0551 or go to
starclippers com
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