CHAMPAGNE LARMANDIER
Transcription
CHAMPAGNE LARMANDIER
CHAMPAGNE LARMANDIER-BERNIER Estate newsletter May 2009 Hello, The vines are one or two weeks early, despite the fact that we used new tools for ploughing; once again, those charming weeds have caught up with us… But so far, so good. We are very pleased with the 2008 vintage. Our flagship cuvées, Terre de Vertus and Vieille Vigne de Cramant, do not overshadow the others quite as much, and so much the better: our aim is not to make two little pearls, but rather a necklace of pearls! Sophie et Pierre In what compartment or in what cage do Larmandier-Bernier belong? We often find ourselves confronted with the classification syndrome – organic, bio-dynamic, natural wines, etc. - and we are tempted to reply “in all and none of them”. These different approaches should be parts of an overall method, both coherent and balanced, which goes from the wine-stock to the dosage, and even as far as the label. To our mind, the “compartment” seems unique to each winegrower, because it is linked to his/her frame of mind, age and personality. We do not wish to be put into one chapel. The basics remain the same, of course, but through our constant questioning, our “compartment” evolves every day according to the vintages, the people we meet, our thoughts, our research… All of this is our way of saying that we try to do our job as free and responsible citizens in this world of norms, of checks, of limits. And we hope that we communicate our freedom to you in our wines. Australia: For Robert, our importer, (but also for our own pleasure!), we went round to the other side of the planet to see whether kangaroos liked Larmandier-Bernier Champagne. The programme included the following: A meeting with journalists, wine-waiters and wine-store owners (what a pleasure to see Larmandier-Bernier in the most prestigious restaurants and in very high-quality wine-stores). Chairing a tasting-debate at the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival (MFWF) during which Larmandier-Bernier was compared, in a very open manner, with the cuvées of the great brands. And of course, a visit to some winegrowers, friends of ours, whose way of working is close to ours (which is not very common in Australia). 1 2 3 1 :The Guillaume at Bennelong restaurant in the Sydney Opera House. 2: Tasting-debate at the MFWF; from left to right Kate McIntyre, Sophie, Pierre, Robert and Ben Edwards, Chairman of Australian wine-waiters. 3: Julian Castagna, a well-known Australian winegrower, with Pierre. Some news from the front (or a few thoughts about the crisis) In 2007 and again in 2008, the Champagne producers fixed high yields, “to accompany the market”, so they said, thus going back on the efforts undertaken a few years before to produce and at the same time pollute less. It’s no secret: higher production rhymes with the intensive use of pesticides and fertilisers. At the end of 2008, along came the world crisis. A slight slowdown in Champagne, and immediately, a state of panic replaced a situation of overheating! Champagne reacted as it always does: a strong reduction of authorized yields for the 2009 harvest and destocking by “the cavalry” in European supermarkets! Let’s consider the positive side of this crisis: in Champagne in general, the crisis will bring a little humility, and at Larmandier-Bernier, it will enable us to be a little less strict as far as our allocations are concerned, and a little calmer in our stock management in order to avoid being out of stock. CHAMPAGNE LARMANDIER-BERNIER — 19 avenue du général de Gaulle — 51130 VERTUS — FRANCE Tél +33 (0)3 26 52 13 24 — Fax +33 (0)3 26 52 21 00 www.larmandier.fr [email protected] See over for press review ... Some of the press review : Visit www.larmandier.fr to get whole articles PARKER December 2008 Antonio Galloni These wines from Pierre and Sophie Larmandier are exceptional in every way. Larmandier practices a non-interventionalist philosophy in the vineyards with an emphasis on low yields. A similar approach is taken in the cellar, where the wines are fermented with natural yeasts and bottled with low or no dosage in order to exalt the qualities of the sites the estate works with. The Larmandier-Bernier Champagnes are some of the purest and most utterly engaging wines being made in the region today. I can’t recommend them highly enough. NV Larmandier-Bernier Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru RATING: 91 points NV Larmandier-Bernier Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Nature Terre de Vertus RATING: 93 points 2004 Larmandier-Bernier Vieilles Vignes de Cramant Grand Cru Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs RATING: 93 points NV Larmandier-Bernier Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée RATING: 96 points GENUSSLEXIKON 2009 Von A wie Amuse-Gueule bis Z wie Zigarre Winzerkeller in Vertus. Durch Finesse besticht der Blanc de Blancs aus Premier-Cru-Lagen : geschmeidige Fülle, rund und angenehm cremig mit Aromen nach weißer Mandel nebst einem aparten Hauch von Brioche - und freundlichen Preis. Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar Nov/Dec 08 2004 Larmandier-Bernier Vieille Vigne de Cramant Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, By Josh Raynolds 92 points UK Magazine September 2008 Beat the shortage with Live’s five best boutique champagnes, By Tom Bailey LARMANDIER-BERNIER Terre de Vertus NV : Wine geeks and critics including Andrew Jefford have pronounced their champagne second only to Krug. It’s non-dosage, meaning no sugar or sweetener is added. Verdict : Floral, with addictive notes of brioche. SAVEURS Février 2009 Bulles de terroir Femme Actuelle 30 novembre 2008 Le vin bio, un nectar pur et accessible Ces vins sont-ils meilleurs ? « Pas forcément ! Derrière un vin, il y a un homme dans sa vigne, puis dans sa cave... lorsque le vigneron bio est un homme de talent, cela donne des vins « magiques » » Notre sélection de valeurs sûres : LarmandierBernier Brut Tradition 1er cru. The NY Times November 5th 2008 Eric Asimov, Taking Champagne back to its roots Any restaurant in New York with a decent wine list will have at least one of these small Champagne houses among the big names. Grower-producers like Larmandier-Bernier, Egly-Ouriet, ... The Observer November 2008 Top festive bubbles, Tim Atkin gives us his fizzy recommendations for the party season Here are 16 of my current favourites, from party fizz to the finest champagnes : Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 1er cru I love this bone-dry, partially barrel-fermented grower’s champagne. It’s focused and beautifully proportioned. DE STANDAARD MAGAZINE, Belgique, 22 novembre 2008 OOK UITMUNTEND MAAR GOEDKOPER Larmandier-Bernier La Tribune 6 décembre 2008 En piste pour la magie des bulles, L’aristocratie des cuvées Larmandier-Bernier Pierre et Sophie Larmandier travaillent leurs vignes sans pesticides, sans engrais, sans saloperies. Et un beau jour, sans qu’ils s’en aperçoivent, leur champagne deviendra un culte. Le Figaro Guide 11 décembre 2008 Dix vignerons talentueux, La sélection de Bernard Burtschy : Larmandier-Bernier 1er cru Blanc de Blancs. Voilà maintenant bien longtemps que Pierre et Sophie Larmandier se sont lancés dans la qualité ... Leur Blanc de Blancs est d’une grande subtilité avec de beaux et francs arômes briochés qui sont d’une grande gourmandise. Télérama 6 au 12 décembre 2008 Entretien avec JONATHAN NOSSITER Depuis Mondovino, son film manifeste, le cinéaste a déclaré la guerre au goût mondialisé. Les plus grands vignerons français travaillent aujourd’hui en bio. Aubert de Vilaine à la Romanée-Conti, Dominique Lafon ou Jean-Marc Roulot à Meursault, Pierre et Sophie Larmandier en Champagne, et bien d’autres, sont de nobles paysans qui nous mettent en relation avec la nature. Ils vont à contre-courant de ce grand mensonge de la culture de marketing et de l’industrie agroalimentaire. Financial Times 12 December 2008 BUBBLING TO and 20 December 2008 Artisanal champagnes from small owner-growers are proving to be hidden gems in a brand-led market, says John Stimpfig. Pierre Larmandier, owner of Larmandier-Bernier in Vertus, is passionate about his patch of soil and small-scale production. CUISINE ET VINS DE FRANCE Décembre 2008 Nos 8 valeurs sûres : Des bouteilles de caractère, des bruts loin des standards, dont 4 sont des cuvées de vignerons. Larmandier-Bernier 1er cru Blanc de Blancs 18 / 20 FINE CHAMPAGNE MAGAZINE December 2008 SINGLE VINEYARD CHAMPAGNES A single vineyards champagne is a AC Champagne wine produced wholly from grapes from one identified vineyard. The Mystique of a single vineyard makes many famous wines even more exclusive. Larmandier-Bernier, Né d’une Terre de Vertus et Vieilles Vignes de Cramant JUTARNJI LIST (most significant daily newspaper in Croatie) 21 December 2008 Veliki blagdanski prasak Larmandier-Bernier mala je sampanjska kuca iz mjesta gdje …. BETTANE & DESSEAUVE 2009, Larmandier-Bernier 3 BD Les meilleurs bruts non millésimés : Terre de vertus 1er cru Larmandier-Bernier HUGH JOHNSON GUIDE DES VINS du monde entier 2009 Larmandier-Bernier : Blanc de Blancs de haute volée, particulièrement Terre de Vertus non dosé et Cramant Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes (02 ****) LES MEILLEURS VINS DE FRANCE 2009 – Le guide de référence de la Revue du Vin de France LARMANDIER-BERNIER ** GUIDE VIN GAULT ET MILLAU 2009 OZ CLARKE’S POCKET WINE GUIDE 2009 Best producers : Larmandier-Bernier LES 1001 VINS QU’IL FAUT AVOIR GOUTES DANS SA VIE - 1001 wines you must try before you die Octobre 2008 Larmandier-Bernier VV de Cramant, Millésime dégusté : 1999, à boire de 10 à 20 ans d’âge. GAULT MILLAU Janvier 2009 NOS COUPS DE CŒUR Larmandier-Bernier 1er cru Blanc de Blancs CHAMPAGNE LARMANDIER-BERNIER - 19 avenue du général de Gaulle - 51130 VERTUS - France www.larmandier.fr Tel : +33 (0)3 26 52 13 24