Brittany - Lonely Planet

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Brittany
St-Malo . . . . . . . . . . . 234
Dinard . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
Roscoff . . . . . . . . . . . .247
Île d’Ouessant . . . . . 254
Presqu’île de
Crozon . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
Quimper . . . . . . . . . . .257
Concarneau . . . . . . . .261
Carnac . . . . . . . . . . . . 263
Belle Île . . . . . . . . . . . .267
Josselin . . . . . . . . . . . . 271
Rennes . . . . . . . . . . . . .272
Best Places to Eat
» Le Chalut (p238)
» Restaurant Delaunay
(p238)
» Le Coquillage (p244)
» L’Ambroisie (p260)
» Villa Margot (p266)
Why Go?
Brittany is for explorers. Its wild, dramatic coastline, medieval towns and thick forests make an excursion here
well worth the detour from the beaten track. This is a land
of prehistoric mysticism, proud tradition and culinary
wealth, where locals still remain fiercely independent,
where Breton culture is celebrated and where Paris feels a
very long way away indeed.
The entire region is wonderfully undiscovered once
you go beyond its world-famous sights such as stunning
St-Malo, regal Dinard and charming Dinan. Unexpected
Breton gems – including the little-known towns of Roscoff,
Quimper and Vannes, the megaliths of Carnac, the rugged
coastlines of Finistère, the Presqu’île de Crozon and the
Morbihan Coast – all quickly demonstrate that there’s far
more to Brittany than just delicious crêpes and homemade
cider. Brittany’s much-loved islands are also big draws –
don’t miss its two real stars, dramatic Île d’Ouessant and
the very aptly named Belle Île.
When to Go
Brest
°C/°F Temp
Rainfall Inches/mm
40/104
6/150
30/86
5/125
4/100
20/68
3/75
Best Places to
Stay
10/50
» Hôtel Printania (p241)
-10/14
» Hôtel du Centre (p250)
» Grand Hôtel Barrière
(p241)
» Hôtel de Nemours (p273)
» Hôtel Manoir des Indes
(p259)
2/50
0/32
1/25
0
J
F
M
June and early
July Enjoy the
beaches, outdoor
adventures and
sunshine before
the crowds.
A
M
J
J
A
Late July Head
to Quimper
for traditional
Celtic music at
the Festival de
Cornouaille.
S
O
N
D
Late November
In winter, join the
crowds in Rennes
for the Yaouank
night festival.
Îles
Chausey
Roscoff
#
7\
#
8
#
N12
·
/
Brest
Pointe
du Grouin
]
# Morlaix
Dinard
Bénodet
#
\
N137
·
/
#
^
1
#
·
/
#
Sauzon \
# Le Palais
\
Vitré
A157
/
·
#
]
ILLE-ETVILAINE
N24
/
·
#
Port Louis \
Megaliths
# Vannes
]
Îles de
3
#
Ca
Groix Carnac #
Gulf
na
\
l
of Morbihan N165
#
\
Quiberon
#
÷
Forêt de
VilleCartier
Rennes
#
÷
t
es
Br
—
Atlantic
Ocean
#
]
MORBIHAN
·
/
N155
Forêt de
Paimpont
es
nt
Na
Îles de
Glénan
N12
/
·
Josselin #
#
\
2
# Concarneau
]
Lorient
#
Dinan ]
g c
an u
Et u D
a
Noires
#
^
Quimper #
5
Lac de
Guerlédan
# Cancale
]
St-Malo
#
^
N165
/
·
Montagnes
#
4
#
]]
#
St-Brieuc
Camaret- ]
#
Parc Naturel Régional
sur-Mer Landévennec ÷
# d'Armorique
#
CÔTES
#
\
Crozon & ]
#
]
FINISTÈRE
MénezD'ARMOR
R
Morgat
6
#
Hom
N164
Presqu'île
·
/
Loudéac
R
Argol
#
\
de Crozon
Pointe
du Raz
233
#
\
Vilain
Île d'Ouessant
MANCHE
Paimpol
e
N137
/
·
LOIREATLANTIQUE
Belle Île
Brittany Highlights
student life in the charming
old town of Rennes (p272)
2 Tour the turreted
medieval castle over the
fairy-tale forest village of
Josselin (p271)
3 Cycle past fields full
of prehistoric megaliths
(p266) around Carnac
4 Stroll along the ramparts
(p235) at sunset for
panoramic views over St-Malo
5 Explore the often
overlooked Breton city of
Quimper (p257), with its
wonderful cathedral and
old town
6 Sip Breton cider and
learn about its production at
the Musée du Cidre (p255)
at Argol
History
Brittany’s earliest known Neolithic tribes
left a legacy of menhirs and dolmens that
continue to baffle historians. Celts arrived
in the 6th century BC, naming their new
homeland Armor (‘the land beside the sea’).
The region was conquered by Julius Caesar
in 56 BC. Following the withdrawal of the
Romans in the 5th century AD, Celts driven
from what is now Britain and Ireland by the
Anglo-Saxon invasions settled in Brittany,
bringing Christianity with them.
In the 9th century, Brittany’s national
hero Nominoë revolted against French rule.
Wedged between two more-powerful kingdoms, the duchy of Brittany was continuously contested by France and England until a
series of strategic royal weddings finally saw
the region become part of France in 1532.
Brittany has retained a separate regional
identity. Now there’s a drive for cultural
7 Take in the relaxed
Breton atmosphere and
unusual church of Roscoff
(p247), a charming port
town
8 Hike around the barren
coastline of the dramatic Île
d’Ouessant (p254), home
to some of Finistère’s most
appealing scenery
and linguistic renewal, and a consciousness
of Brittany’s place within a wider Celtic culture embracing Ireland, Wales, Scotland,
Cornwall and Galicia in Spain.
8 Getting There & Around
Ferries link St-Malo with the Channel Islands and
the English ports of Portsmouth, Poole and Weymouth. From Roscoff there are ferries to Plymouth (UK) and Cork (Ireland). Alternatively, airports in Brest, Dinard, Lorient and, to the south,
Nantes (p603) serve the UK and Ireland as well
as other European and domestic destinations.
Brittany’s major towns and cities have rail
connections but routes leave the interior poorly
served. The bus network is extensive, if generally infrequent, meaning that your own wheels
are the best way to see the area, particularly
out-of-the-way destinations.
With gently undulating, well-maintained roads,
an absence of tolls and relatively little traffic
outside the major towns, driving in Brittany is a
8
BRIT
TANY 8
1 Enjoy crêpes, cider and