Boost Gauge install

Genesis Coupe Boost Gauge
Installation
Written by Projectx7 for GenCoupe Forums
Disclaimer
• As with any DIY you assume full responsibility for what you do to your
car and I am in no way liable for any damage that happens. In other
wards do this DIY at your own risk.
• For all of my DIY’s the car model and trim will be a 2010 Genesis
coupe R-Spec Edition most trims will be the same for most aspects
but there is the possibility that things can be different on your trim
vehicle that may require altering the DIY steps ect.
Notes:
My setup consists of a Glowshift Tinted 7 Boost gauge and a Glowshift universal swivel pod so it will be specific to this setup
and how I decided to mount mine, yours will vary most likely but I will also talk about things generically.
Materials
Tools
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• Small flat head screwdriver
• Large Flat Head Screw Driver
• Wire Cutters
• Wire Stripper
• Multimeter
Boost Gauge
T-Fitting
Vacuum Line
Mounting solution
Extra Wire
Double sided tape
Electrical tape
Zip ties
Part 1: Prepping your gauge and wires
• Unpack your gauge and make sure all the content it is suppose to
come with is included etc. With your boost gauge you most likely got
the T-fitting and vacuum lines in the box which will be ample enough
for the installation.
• Next, extend the wires with enough length to easily make it to where
it will be wired and connect the vacuum hose to the back of the
gauge and mount the gauge into the pod.
Part 2: Mount your gauge
• I personally mounted mine on the steering Colum with a universal
Glowshift Pod so this DIY will illustrate that.
• First remove the swivel part off the Glowshift pod as it will not be
needed in the installation.
• Make sure your steering column is free of any detailing spray etc. in
other wards clean off the surface so you can get a good adhesion
when we go to mount the gauge.
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Lower the steering wheel all the way
down so you can push through the
vacuum line and wires through the top
and get them out of the way. Now move
your steering wheel back up and
orientate the Pod how you like it. For me
I orientated it so the piece that connects
to the swivel is resting on the steering
column, the rear of the pod is touching
the silver bezel of your tach gauge, and
the edge of the gauge pod is touching the
steering column.
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You should notice that your gauge can
actually rest there without falling off
which is great but let’s secure it. Now
using your double sided tape cut off small
pieces so that they will allow the gauge to
mount to the contact points of the gauge
pod and the steering wheel
column/gauge bezel.
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Now your gauge is mounted and you’re
ready to proceed to the next step.
Part 3: Running the Vacuum Line
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Look at your hood release latch and
follow the cable straight back to the
firewall, that black grommet is where our
vacuum line will be running through to
get the engine bay.
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Using your small flat head screw driver
pull the grommet out of the hole so you
can work with it easier and allow you to
have a little more leverage to get your
line through
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As a tip using your small Flat head
screwdriver show it into the grommet
and pry open the hole so you can slide
the vacuum line through with minimal
effort..
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Now locate your vacuum line in the
engine bay and route it to the intake
manifold where you see the white/green
check valve this is where you will be
splicing into to get your boost readings.
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Looking at the Left Barb remove the grey
hose with the check valve as a tip use
your large flat head screw driver to help
push the hose off.
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Next you’re going to cut a small piece of
vacuum tubing to stick on the left barb
and be able to loop it so it does not pinch
and connect it to one side of the T-fitting,
the other side of the T-Fitting will be
where the grey hose connects to
continue back to the right barb, and
finally the boost gauges vacuum line will
connect to the output of the T-Fitting.
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Now you want to secure the T-fitting and
lines so it has a little bit of a Loop and
does not deform and cause the hose to
pinch as you can see in the picture so zip
tie the T-fitting to the Left barb. Note on
mine I used one of those twisty ties but it
was only a temporary solution till I
bought some real zip ties. Okay now for
the Next step electrical!
Part 4: Wiring Your Gauge
• Now for some reason everyone seems to get scared when doing electrical
work and this is something you shouldn't be. Electrical work is actually
very simple and has a definite result. As long as you follow the guidelines
you will be fine and will cause no harm to yourself or your vehicle just be
calm and follow the simple steps.
• With most electrical work be very careful of what you decide to splice into
as a general rule never splice into a yellow wire since they are generally
airbag wires this does not mean all yellow wires are airbag wires but some
are so why not just avoid them, there’s plenty of choices for wires. Now
there are many ways to wire these i will show you how I did mine and I
opted to spice in to wires around the dash area for simplicity.
• More importantly be sure to disconnect the Negative battery terminal for
you and your cars safety!
Splicing method
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Open up your dash area If you’re not sure
on how to do this view my other DIY here
on Gencoupe called: DIY Center Console
Removal.
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This is a much more advanced method for
the electrical work and is one of two
methods outlined in this DIY.
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Most novice’s may prefer the fuse tap
method outlined after this method for
simplicity.
Hooking up your Ground Lead
I chose to connect my ground wire by splicing
into the ground wire of the cigarette lighter
socket.
Hooking up Your Constant Positive Lead
(Using your Multimeter it must always read
~12v without your key in the ignition!)
For the Constant positive I spliced into the
positive wire of the cigarette lighter socket.
Hooking Up Your Switched Positive Lead
(This wire must read 0V with the key out of
the ignition and when the key is in and
switched to ACC it must read ~12V)
For this wire I chose a wire coming from the
climate control harness since it was in the
immediate area looking at the pin it was the
red wire at the top right corner of the pin.
Using my Multimeter I confirmed that it only
has voltage when in the Switched on position
which is what you want. This is a part were
certain trims may vary or may not so please
use your multi meter to double check before
just imitating my wiring job. It is not hard
and is as easy as reading a digital watch. If
you have questions on this process ask me
questions I'll be happy to answer them.
Fuse Tap Method
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Using two Fuse taps you will connect your
constant wires to one fuse tap wire and
your switched wires to another fuse tap.
Install a 3 amp fuse on both fuse taps.
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Next remove FOG LP(RR)on Fuse panel
and insert your constant power fuse tap.
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Remove your IGN/ESCL on fuse panel and
insert your Switched power fuse tap
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For your ground You have to attach it to
any metal surface so look for a bolt/screw
that you can remove and insert the wire
with a proper clamp.
Photo Credit: GenCoupe member eclee
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Start up the car and make sure your gauge
powers on, if it does not you may have
messed up the wiring so shut off your car
and open everything back up to make sure
you do not have any lose connections or
worse, improperly wired the gauge.
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Now assuming your gauge powers up take
your car for a drive and don’t be afraid to
WOT her she does love it but more
importantly watch your boost gauge and
make sure it’s working. If it is not then you
must check to make sure your vacuum line is
not pinched anywhere mainly where you
connected the T-
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Fitting, where it comes through the firewall,
or around where you mounted your gauge.
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So now that everything is working correctly
clean up your installation by zip tying any
lose wires and the vacuum line in the engine
bay so it doesn’t get in the way of anything
hot.