One swinging street, 100

9/09/13
14:01
Page 6
À LA UNE
06-07-670 AN:03_DOSSIER SPECIAL
LONDON
[888] C2
One swinging street, 100
ETERNELLEMENT A LA MODE. C’est une petite rue parallèle à Regent Street, mondialement connue pour ses boutiques branchées, depuis toujours associée à la mode et à la musique. Jimi Hendrix, les Beatles, les Rolling Stones
ou encore David Bowie y auraient trouvé leur look… Rebecca Gonsalves retrace 100 ans de style(s) à Carnaby Street!
THE INDEPENDENT
One swinging street, 100 years of
fashion
100 ans de mode à Carnaby Street (réf.
aux “Swinging Sixties”
setting lieu, cadre / counterculture contre-culture / to
launch lancer, inaugurer / neat chouette / warren
garenne, ici labyrinthe, dédale / locale lieu, endroit /
to squeeze comprimer, insérer.
2. surrounds alentours / to span couvrir, embrasser
(période, durée) / mods jeunes actifs urbains se caractérisant par un mode de vie festif, le souci de leur apparence vestimentaire et leur goût pour la musique et la
danse / pedestrianised piétonnier / link lien.
3. truly vraiment / on the cutting edge à l’avant-garde
/ to ditch se débarrasser de / ruffle froufrou / flounce
volant, falbala / to linger s’attarder / to put, put, put
paid to mettre fin à / frippery fanfreluche(s), falbala(s)
/ garment vêtement / headpiece coiffe, accessoire de
cheveux / knee-length à hauteur de genou.
4. flapper garçonne des années 20 / dropped waist
(robe) taille basse / bead perle / fringe frange / definitive incontestable / Roaring Twenties Années folles /
smoky enfumé / to dot être disséminé, éparpillé / to
slink bouger de manière sexy, rouler des hanches / to
shimmy danser / fox-fur stole étole de renard.
6 • VOCABLE Du 19 septembre au 2 octobre 2013
BY REBECCA GONSALVES
arnaby Street may be best known
as the setting for the counterculture of the Swinging Sixties, but
a new project launched last
month explores a neat century of
music heritage in the warren-like
locale squeezed between Soho and Covent
Garden.
2. The street and its surrounds have changed
much over the century that spans from the
opening of jazz club Murray’s on Beak Street
in 1913, via the hippies and mods of the
1960s and the punks of the 1970s to the present day in which a pedestrianised shopping
area is home to brands with indelible links
to the music scene such as Pretty Green and
Fred Perry.
3. 1910s Only those truly on the cutting edge
would have ditched the feminine ruffles and
flounces that lingered into the 20th century
by 1913, but the First World War soon put
paid to such fripperies as working women
C
soon demanded more practical garments.
Hats and headpieces were still de rigueur, although a knee-length dress would be rather
recherché.
4. 1920s Flapper chic – all dropped waists,
beads and fringes – is one of the definitive
styles of the Roaring Twenties, a time synonymous with the smoky jazz clubs dotted
around London. The nightclubs of Carnaby
Street would have been filled with young
women competing for the affections of the
survivors of the war by slinking and shimmying around in fox-fur stoles.
5. 1930s The glamour and escapism of Hollywood inspired the early 1930s, after the fun times of the previous decade were
brought to a sudden halt by the
Wall Street Crash. When the Depression hit,
hemlines fell back to the floor, while a softer,
draped silhouette harked back to a more traditional ideal of romance and femininity inspired by ancient Greece and Rome.
06-07-670 AN:03_DOSSIER SPECIAL
9/09/13
14:02
Page 7
i
Time and trends… (DR)
What’s in a name?
Historically, Carnaby Street derives its
name from Karnaby House, located to
its east and originally erected in 1683.
The street was probably laid out in 1685
or 1686. First appearing in the ratebooks in 1687, the street was almost
completely built up by 1690 with small
houses.
00 years of fashion
6. 1940s With the return of war came the return of utility-inspired dressing for women,
while clothing rations led to furnishing fabrics being used for dressmaking. Tea dresses
in floral fabrics were created with wide
shoulders, narrow waists and pleated skirts
just above the knee.
7. 1950s As the “teenager” emerged in the
post-war era, identified by marketers and social scientists, the influence from American
culture was great once again. Rockabilly
styles, popular the first time around in the
1950s, have seen a resurgence in recent years,
inspired by pin-ups such as Bettie Page.
The street and its surrounds
have changed much over
the century.
8. 1960s The Swinging Sixties were a time
of huge importance as revolution and counterculture were on the rise among young
“women’s libbers” and fashion was dominated by Mary Quant and the miniskirt, Vidal Sassoon and his five-point cut, and model
Twiggy. Bright, bold colours and psychedelic
patterns were typical of the simplified
shapes, reflecting LSD hallucinations.
9. 1970s Once hems could go no higher, they
began to fall again, reflecting the tumble the
optimism of the 1960s took. Flower power prevailed, however, as designers went back to nature for inspiration for their louche, floor-skimming dresses. The bohemian vibe continued
with turbans and rich colours and prints.
10. 1980s Everything went big: hair, aspirations and mobile phones, as women began
to be taken seriously in the traditionally
male-dominated world of work for the first
time. Heavily padded shoulders were a sign
of strength, while jewel colours reinforced
ideas of luxury and wealth.
11. 1990s While catwalk fashion may have
taken a more minimal and conceptual direction in the 1990s, street style was heavily
influenced by the music scene. Rave culture
was all about smiley-adorned pieces teamed
with sportswear, while Britpop fans returned
to the mod styles of the 1960s with fishtail
parkas and feathered haircuts.
12. 2000s With the rise of fast fashion, the
shelf life of trends became shorter and
shorter, and so in the past decade we cycled
through boho, rock chic and bodycon, the
latter favoured by a certain faction of the
pop charts, Wags and reality TV stars who insisted on keeping bandage dresses and
stacked platform heels on life support. ●
5. escapism évasion (de la réalité) / to bring, brought,
brought to a halt stopper / Depression années de récession économique qui suivirent la débâcle financière de
1929 / hemline ourlet / to hark back to revenir à.
6. utility dressing vêtements fabriqués selon certains
critères imposés par le gouvernement britannique pendant la Seconde Guerre mondiale (en raison du la pénurie de tissus et de main-d’oeuvre) / ration rationnement
/ furnishing ameublement / fabric tissu / floral à fleurs
/ shoulder épaule / pleated plissé / skirt jupe.
7. marketer spécialiste du marketing / rockabilly sousgenre du rock ‘n’ roll (mélange de rock et de musique
country) et qui influença la mode de l’époque.
8. women’s libber membre du Women’s Lib (Mouvement de libération des femmes) / five-point cut coupe
garçonne / model mannequin / bright vif (couleur) / bold
audacieux / pattern motif / shape forme, modèle.
9. hem ourlet / tumble chute, dégringolade / louche
dress robe corolle / floor-skimming frôlant le sol / bohemian bohème / vibe (vibration) atmosphère bouillonnante, créatrice.
10. heavily fortement, très / to pad rembourrer / strength
force / jewel bijou / luxury luxe.
11. catwalk fashion défilé de mode/mode inspirée des
défilés / rave soirée techno délirante organisée dans
des endroits désaffectés / to adorn décorer / to team with
(s’)associer à / fishtail parka parka (avec fente dans le
dos) / feathered haircut coupe au carré mi-longue et
dégradée autour du visage.
12. fast fashion mode éphémère, concept qui consiste à
renouveler les collections de prêt-à-porter plusieurs fois
par an pour satisfaire une clientèle de plus en plus volatile / shelf life durée de vie / boho bohème / bodycon
(vêtement) moulant / pop chart hit-parade / Wags
acronyme de Wives and girlfriends, en parlant des ravissantes compagnes ou épouses de footballeurs de haut
niveau, intéressant de près ou de loin la presse people
(par ex. Victoria Beckham) / to stack entasser / platform heels escarpins à semelle compensée / to keep,
kept, kept on life-support maintenir sous assistance respiratoire, ici continuer à porter.
WHAT’S IN A NAME
to locate situer / originally à l’origine / to lay, laid, laid
out agencer, tracer / ratebook registre immobilier.
Regardez une vidéo
sur www.vocable.fr et
testez votre compréhension
Du 19 septembre au 2 octobre 2013 VOCABLE • 7