Instructions and free patterns
Transcription
Instructions and free patterns
Instructions and free patterns www.mybernette.com “Romantic style” project sewing instructions Frilly blouse Sizes 34– 34– 42 European (4(4- 12 US/6US/6- 14 UK) You'll need - 1.2m (1 3/8 yd) pink taffeta (fabric width 1.5m (5')) 0.45m (½ yd) white tulle (fabric width 1.5m (5')) 0.50 m (1/2 yd) pink voile (fabric width 1.5m (5')) 1.5m (1 2/3 yd) satin ribbon, approx. 4mm (1/6") wide Assorted sewing and embroidery threads in pink Embroidery stabilizer for the facing Spray adhesive Sewing thread to match the color of the fabric Gathering foot Cording foot Fabric recommendation re commendation Taffeta or other shiny, slightly crisp fabric for the blouse. Sheer fabrics that can be gathered with the gathering foot for the frills. Good to know The decorative stitches will cause the fabric to shrink slightly, so be sure to add 2.5cm (1") seam allowance to the outer facing when cutting it out. After embellishing the facing with decorative stitching, reposition the paper pattern on the stitched fabric and trim the seam allowance to 1.5cm (5/8"). Cutting out Seam allowances allowances – When cutting out, add 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance to all edges and the hem, and 1cm (3/8") to armhole curves. Pink taffeta 2 x front 1 x back to fabric fold 2 x facing 2 x belt loops: 1.5cm x 8cm (5/8" x 3 ¼"), including seam allowance 1 x belt: 8cm x 66cm (3 ¼" x 26"), including seam allowance 2 x bias binding for armhole, cut on cross-grain: 4cm x 47cm (1 5/8" x 18 1/2") Sheer voile, taffeta, taffeta, or tulle Tear or cut (depending on the fabric's texture) 2cm- (7/8"-) wide strips for the frill on the facing. Gather the strips with the gathering foot (see user instructions for the foot). Stitch the finished strips together to yield a single strip with a total length of approx. 1.5m (5'). How to proceed Closing and neatening the seams 1. Close shoulder seams; press the allowances apart and neaten. Neaten the outer edge of the lower facing. 2. Close the bust darts as marked on the pattern piece and press them downwards. Binding the armholes 3. Bias-bind the armholes. For this, press the bias binding in half and place it right sides together along the armhole with one edge flush with the armhole edge. Stitch the bias binding to the armhole 1cm (3/8") in from the edge. Trim the seam allowances and notch them in the curves. Turn the bias binding over onto the wrong side of the armhole and stitch it on all around approx. 8mm (1/3") in from the edge. Embellishing and attaching the facing 4. Spray a little adhesive onto the cut-out embroidery stabilizers and place them under the outer facing. 5. Embellish the facing with assorted decorative stitches and sewing threads. Use the cording foot to couch the cords and ribbons and attach the frilly trim with a straight stitch. Give free rein to your imagination. Try out the decorative stitches on a remnant of stabilized fabric first if wished. Reduce the thread tension slightly if the stitches cause the fabric to pucker. 6. Cut out the embellished facing as described at the beginning of these instructions, then place it right sides together on the lower facing. Stitch both facings together along the center front edge. Turn the facing right side out, press the edges, and edge-stitch along the neckline if necessary. Vordere Mitte = Center front 7. Sew the (embellished) outer facing to the blouse with right sides together. Turn the facing right side out, press the seam allowance into the front facing, and stitch the inner facing in the ditch from the right side. Belt loops and belt 8. Fold under both edges of each belt loop by 5mm (1/4"). Press, then sew with a zigzag stitch (finished width of each strip = 5mm or ¼"). Make two loops for the belt and pin them to the side seams approx. 4cm (1 5/8") below the waistline marking. Now close the side seams, including the loops as you stitch them. 9. Fold belt in half lengthwise. Fold the seam allowances under on the long and short edges. Press, then edge-stitch the entire belt together. Draw the belt through the loops. Hem 10. Fold under and press the hem 5mm (1/4"), then 1cm (3/8"). Hem with a straightstitch approx. 8mm (1/3") in from the edge. Frilly Frilly skirt Sizes 34–42 European (4-12 US/6-14 UK) You'll need - 0.8 m (7/8 yd) pink taffeta, 1.5m (5') wide Tulle, voile or sheer taffeta remnant for frill on facing 1.4m (1 5/8 yd) cord approx. 4mm (1/6") wide, and thin satin ribbon for decoration 5-8 small glass beads In-seam zipper, 22cm (8 2/3") long Sewing thread to match the color of the fabric Gathering foot Walking foot Invisible-zipper foot Fabric recommendation For the skirt/outer sections – Taffeta or other shiny, slightly crisp fabric. For the lining/petticoat – Sheer, stiff fabric such as taffeta, voile or tulle. Good to know To achieve a trendy effect, the tulle or voile underskirts are not hemmed, but merely cut off or torn, eliminating the need to add on a hem allowance along the bottom edges of the voile or tulle. Depending on the fabric thickness, a fairly thin interfacing may be necessary for the yoke. Cutting out For the skirt: P ink taffeta 2 x front yoke to fabric fold 2 x back yoke to fabric fold 2 x strip (30cm x 146cm (12" x 59")) for the bottom skirt panel For the petticoat: White tulle 1 x strip (28cm x 146cm (11" x 59") for the middle skirt panel 2 x strip (16cm x 146cm (6 ½" x 59") for the bottom skirt panel Pink voile 3 x strip (12cm x 146cm (5" x 59") for the bottom skirt panel For the unattached frills that hang down, tear or cut (depending on the texture of the fabric) 2cm- (4/5"-) wide strips in the entire width of the fabric. Gather the strips with the gathering foot (see user instructions for the gathering foot). Cut the frilly strips into different lengths. How to proceed Outer yoke 1. Place a front and back yoke section together with right sides facing to form the outer yoke. Stitch the left side seam closed. Press seam allowances apart and neaten. Inner yoke 2. Place the remaining front and back yoke sections right sides together to form the inner yoke. Stitch the right side seam closed and press seam allowances apart. Fold under the seam allowance on the open edge, then press and straight-stitch about 1cm (3/8”) in from the edge. Closing and gathering the skirt panels 3. Close all side seams on all skirt panels. Close the side seam on the bottom panel of the skirt up to the zipper marking only. Neaten edges if necessary and press them apart. 4. For the frilly effect, straight-stitch all top edges with a stitch length of 5mm (1/4"). Repeat 5mm (1/4") from the first stitch line. Knot the lower threads of the straightstitched lines. 5. Skirt: With right sides facing, insert the bottom edge of the yoke into the bottom skirt panel. Pull the unknotted upper threads of the straight-stitched lines to gather the skirt panel, matching the widths of the top skirt panel to those of the yoke sections. Slip the ends of the frilly trim and satin ribbons in between at various points and pin. Knot the threads of the straight-stitched lines. Sew skirt panel to yoke. Petticoat: Gather the center skirt panel and sew it to the inner yoke. Pull the threads of the straight-stitched lines of the two bottom skirt panels to gather the panels to the same width as the bottom edge of the center skirt panel. Stitch the panels together. Zipper 6. Sew the zipper into the open side seam of the outer yoke (see user instructions for the zipper foot). Stitching skirt and lining together 7. Slip the lining into the outer skirt section right sides facing and pin to the top edge. Stitch the top edges together. Trim the seam allowances and turn the skirt right side out. Topstitch the top edge about 5mm (1/4“) in from the edge, then stitch the two skirt panels together in the ditch. 8. Stitch petticoat to zipper by hand. Completing the skirt 9. Loosen and carefully pull out all the threads from the straight-stitched lines. 10. Hang the skirt on a hanger and check whether you’d like to add more frills and satin ribbons anywhere. Cut the frills and strips you’ve already attached to the length you prefer. Roll the ends of the frills in slightly and straight-stitch the rolled ends. This stops the frills from fraying and secures the thread ends. Should you wish to add more decorative trim and ribbons, pin these to the petticoat, letting them protrude by a couple of inches or more, and stitch them on. 11. Thread a few glass beads onto the satin ribbons and knot the ends to prevent the beads from falling off. Flower bracelet Length 17cm (7”) You’ll need - Remnant of pink taffeta Remnant of tulle, voile, or sheer taffeta for the frills on the bracelet 5-8 small glass beads Bracelet closure, 2cm (4/5”) wide Sewing thread to match the color of the fabric Gathering foot Cutting out Pink Pink taffeta 1 strip 80cm x 10cm (32"x 4”), including seam allowances, for fabric flower 1 strip 6cm x 15cm (2 ½” x 6”), including seam allowances, for fabric flower Pink voile 1 x strip, 2cm (4/5“) wide, for frill on bracelet. Depending on the texture of the fabric, tear or cut the strip and gather it with the gathering foot, then trim the frilled strips to a length of 13cm (5 1/4”). How to proceed Making the flower 1. Fold the strip for the fabric flower in half and straight-stitch the open edge with a stitch length of 5mm (1/4”). Hold the lower thread firmly at both ends and gather the strip along the two upper threads to approx. 40-43cm (16"-17"). 2. Drape the strip into a spiral to form a flower. Hand-sew the bottom edge in place with a few stitches. Sewing the bracelet 3. Fold the bracelet lengthwise and turn the long and short edges under to the wrong side. Edge-stitch the bracelet all around approx. 2mm (1/10”) in from the edge. 4. Now sew the frilly trim onto the bracelet and attach the closure on both ends. Finishing the bracelet 5. Pin the flower to the center of the bracelet and stitch it on by hand.Sew on a few glass beads in the center of the flower if wished. Frilly cushion Size 50cm x 50cm (20" x 20") You'll need - 0.55 m (2/3 yd) pink furnishing fabric, 1.5m (5’) wide 0.40 m (16") pink taffeta, 1.5m (5’) wide Remnant of pink voile, 1.5m (5’) wide 1m (1 1/8 yd) satin ribbon, approx.. 4mm (1/6") wide 7 buttons, diameter approx. 1.8cm (¾") Assorted decorative beads Assorted sewing or embroidery threads in pink Embroidery stabilizer for the facing and buttonholes Spray adhesive Sewing thread to match the color of the fabric Gathering foot Cording foot Fabric recommendation Furnishing fabric, taffeta, or other shiny, crisp fabrics. Sheer fabrics that can be gathered with the gathering foot for frills. Good to know: Depending on the fabric you are using, buttonholes and decorative stitches are more attractive if tear-away stabilizer is placed underneath them. Reduce the thread tension slightly in case the decorative stitches cause the fabric to pucker. Cutting out: Seam allowances need not be added, since they are already included in the measurements (1cm (3/8)"). Furnishing fabric: 1 rectangle 52cm x 90cm (20 ½" x 1 yd) for the pillow case. Taffeta: 1 strip 52 x 27cm (20 ½" x 10 2/3") for decorative facing, and 2 strips 12cm x 150cm and 12cm x 105cm (4 ¾" x 1 2/3 yd and 4 ¾" x 1 ¼ yd for the frilled edge Voile: 2 strips for frills in assorted lengths and widths Embroidery stabilizer: For decorative front facing How to proceed Embellishing the facing 1. Spray a little adhesive onto the cut-out embroidery stabilizer and place it under the facing. 2. Now give free rein to your imagination and embellish the facing with decorative stitching, keeping a distance of 9cm (3 ½") to one long edge, and 2cm (4/5") to the other. Use assorted decorative stitch patterns and sewing threads. Use the cording foot to couch cords and ribbons (sewing instructions come with the respective presser foot) and sew on the frilly trim with a straight stitch. Try out the decorative stitches on a remnant of stabilized fabric first, if wished. Buttonholes 3. Fold under the wide unembroidered edge twice (by 4cm (1 1/2") each time). Mark in the buttonholes at even intervals approx. 5mm (1/4") in from the edge and sew on at right angles to the edge. Frilly trim 4. Sew the two 12cm- (4 ¾"-) wide taffeta strips together into one long strip. Fold this strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing. Stitch the two open edges together in presser-foot width from the edge, using the straightstitch and the maximum stitch length and leaving the thread ends uncut at the beginning and end. Holding the lower thread tight, carefully gather the whole strip to 150cm (5’) by pulling the upper thread. Knot the upper and lower threads together. Evenly distribute the frills thus created over the entire length of the strip. Slightly fold under the narrow edges twice, then narrow-edgestitch the hem. Inserting the frilly trim and closing the seams 5. Neaten the short edge of the underlap by folding it under 2cm (4/5") and topstitching it. (Underlay is 6cm (2 1/3") wide.) 6. With right sides together, place decorative facing on the opposite short edge of the furnishing fabric with the buttonholes pointing toward the center. Turn over furnishing fabric (right sides together). The total width of the case is now 50cm (20"). Slip the frilly trim with the unneatened edge outward between the open edges of the pillow. Stitch seams closed, catching the frilly trim as you do so. 7. Turn pillow case right side out. Sew on buttons and slip pillow into case. Tips on Working with Fabrics There are several important basic rules for cutting out and sewing fabrics. Here are a few tips regarding our projects: Cutting out Selvedges The approx. 1-cm (1/2“)-wide strips on both sides of the fabric are the selvedges. Because their texture is generally different from that of the rest of the fabric, you must never include the selvedge in your calculations. Nor is the selvedge suitable as a fabric seam allowance. Fabric fold The folded edge created when you lay both sides of the fabric together is the fabric fold. When cutting out a pattern piece labelled with a fabric fold, lay it exactly on such a folded edge. Fabric grain The fabric grain is crucial for the correct drape of a garment. The grain marked on the pattern pieces corresponds to the straight grain or warp of the fabric, and must run parallel to the selvedges. With patterned fabrics, always pay attention to the direction of the grain and cut out fabrics in the same direction. Seam allowances Cutting out seam allowances of equal width makes sewing easier later on. Use a measuring tape and taylor’s chalk to draw the seam allowances onto the fabric all around the paper pattern pieces. As a rule, you’ll need 4cm (1 1/2“) seam allowances for hems and 1.5cm (5/8“) on all other edges and seams. (Where measurements differ, we’ve mentioned this in the instructions.) Sewing Sewing edges and seams When sewing edges and seams, always place your fabric right sides together and sew together 1.5cm (5/8“) in from the edge (same width as the seam allowance). The seam allowances are then pressed apart, trimmed if necessary, and neatened with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker. Sewing hems When hemming, turn edges under twice from the right side to the wrong side of the fabric, iron along the top edge, and sew. For a 4cm (1 1/2“) seam allowance the hem is first turned under 1cm (1/2“), then again another 3cm (1 1/4“). Machine stitch settings for straight stitch Use the factory settings for sewing edges, seams and hems. For topstitching, you can set stitch length to 3-3.5 mm. Using interfacing Use interfacing (or stabilizers) to reinforce fabric on facings, collars, etc. The best interfacing to use depends on the fabric you’ve chosen. You’ll find commercially available interfacing in fabric stores. A store assistant will be able to advise you as to which interfacing is suitable for your fabric, and on how to iron it on. Rock / Skirt / Jup e Back yoke Vordere M itt Centre fro e Stoffbruch Fade nlauf/ nt Droit fil m straight grain on fo ilieu endr ld/ oit pli se/ Rückwärtige Pas / Passant dos 10 x 10 cm Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/ Centre back on fold straight grain/ Droit fil milieu envers pli Legeplan zum Zusammenkleben der DIN A4-Seiten / Layout Plan for Gluing Together the DIN A4 Pages / Plan de disposition pour l'assemblage des pages DIN A4 Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 168 cm: Grösse/ Size/ Taille Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/ Longueur taille devant Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/ Rock / Skirt / Jupe Vordere Passe/ Front yoke / Passant avant 1 34 80 64 90 42 36 84 67 93 43 38 88 71 96 44 40 92 75 99 45 42 96 79 102 46 44 100 83 105 47 46 104 87 108 48 41 41 41 42 42 42 42 40 36,2 29,5 39 17,7 42 37,8 31,1 40,2 18 44 39,4 32,7 41,3 18,5 46 40,9 34,3 42,5 18,9 16,5 16,5 16,5 16,5 Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 66 Inch: Grösse/ Size/ Taille Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/ Longueur taille devant Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/ 34 31,5 25,2 35,4 16,5 36 33 26,4 36,6 17 38 34,6 28 37,8 17,3 16 16 16 2 Legende/Legend/ Légend Grösse/ Size/ Taille 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 Ausdrucken der Seiten: Deaktivieren Sie die Funktion, dass die Seite automatisch an Blattgröße oder Druckbereich angepasst wird. Es muss: „Seitenanpassung - Keine“ eingeschaltet sein. Nur so wird in Originalgrösse gedruckt, also 100%. Zur Kontrolle des Ausdrucks das Kontroll-Viereck ausmessen Printing out the pages: Deactivate the function automatically adjusting the page to the paper size or printing area. ‘Page Adjustment – None’ must be switched on. Only in this way will the pages print out in the original size, i.e. 100%. To check the printout measure the test square. Impression des pages Désactiver la fonction pour que la page s'adapte automatiquement à la dimension de la feuille ou du secteur d'impression. Activer "aucune" sur "adaptation de la page". Ce n'est qu'ainsi que la dimension originale (100%) sera correctement imprimée. Imprimer et vérifier l’envergure du carré. 1 Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/ Centre back on fold straight grain/ Droit fil milieu envers pli 10 x 10 cm Rock / Skirt / Jupe Vordere Passe/ Front yoke / Passant avant yoke Vordere M itte Stoffb ruch Fad Centre fr enlauf/ ont straig ht grain o Droit fil m n fold/ ilieu endr oit pli 1 cm Inch 2 1 2 1 3 4 Rückwärtige Pas / Passant dos 2 5 se/ Back yoke 6 Rock / Skirt / Ju pe 7 3 8 9 4 10 11 12 5 13 14 6 15 16 Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 168 cm: Grösse/ Size/ Taille Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/ Longueur taille devant Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/ 34 80 64 90 42 36 84 67 93 43 38 88 71 96 44 40 92 75 99 45 42 96 79 102 46 44 100 83 105 47 46 104 87 108 48 41 41 41 42 42 42 42 Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 66 Inch: Grösse/ Size/ Taille Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/ Longueur taille devant Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/ 7 36 33 26,4 36,6 17 38 34,6 28 37,8 17,3 40 36,2 29,5 39 17,7 42 37,8 31,1 40,2 18 44 39,4 32,7 41,3 18,5 46 40,9 34,3 42,5 18,9 16 16 16 16,5 16,5 16,5 16,5 18 19 8 34 31,5 25,2 35,4 16,5 2 17 20 9 Legende/Legend/ Légend Grösse/ Size/ Taille 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 10 25 Legeplan zum Zusammenkleben der DIN A4-Seiten / Layout Plan for Gluing Together the DIN A4 Pages / Plan de disposition pour l'assemblage des pages DIN A4 cm 2 3 4 2 5 6 7 3 Rückwärtige Mitte Naht / Centre back seam / Milieu envers couture Inch 1 1 8 9 4 10 11 12 5 13 14 6 15 16 17 7 18 19 8 1 Bluse/ Blouse/ Blouse 4 34 80 64 90 42 36 84 67 93 43 38 88 71 96 44 40 92 75 99 45 42 96 79 102 46 44 100 83 105 47 41 41 41 42 42 42 42 40 36,2 29,5 39 17,7 42 37,8 31,1 40,2 18 44 39,4 32,7 41,3 18,5 46 40,9 34,3 42,5 18,9 16,5 16,5 16,5 16,5 Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 66 Inch: Grösse/ Size/ Taille Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/ Longueur taille devant Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/ 34 31,5 25,2 35,4 16,5 36 33 26,4 36,6 17 38 34,6 28 37,8 17,3 16 16 16 25 12 30 13 35 14 15 40 6 Bluse/ Blouse/ Blouse 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 Vorderteil / front / élément avant Vordere Mitte Fadenlauf/ Centre front straight grain/ Droit fil milieu endroit Grösse/ Size/ Taille 3 11 46 104 87 108 48 Legende/Legend/ Légend 7 10 5 Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 168 cm: Grösse/ Size/ Taille Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/ Longueur taille devant Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/ 2 Bluse/ Blouse/ Blouse Rückenteil/ Back / dos 20 9 Blende / Facing / Revers Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/ Centre back on fold straight grain/ Droit fil milieu envers pli 10 x 10 cm 8 9 Ausdrucken der Seiten: Deaktivieren Sie die Funktion, dass die Seite automatisch an Blattgröße oder Druckbereich angepasst wird. Es muss: „Seitenanpassung - Keine“ eingeschaltet sein. Nur so wird in Originalgrösse gedruckt, also 100%. Zur Kontrolle des Ausdrucks das Kontroll-Viereck ausmessen Printing out the pages: Deactivate the function automatically adjusting the page to the paper size or printing area. ‘Page Adjustment – None’ must be switched on. Only in this way will the pages print out in the original size, i.e. 100%. To check the printout measure the test square. Impression des pages Désactiver la fonction pour que la page s'adapte automatiquement à la dimension de la feuille ou du secteur d'impression. Activer "aucune" sur "adaptation de la page". Ce n'est qu'ainsi que la dimension originale (100%) sera correctement imprimée. Imprimer et vérifier l’envergure du carré. 1 10 x 10 cm 1 / Droit fil milieu envers pli 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 2 10 11 2 1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 9 25 Rückwärtige Mitte Naht / Centre back seam / Milieu envers couture cm Inch 2 1 3 3 4 Bluse/ Blouse/ Blouse Rückenteil/ Back / dos 4 Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/ Centre back on fold straight grain/ Droit 5 11 12 5 30 13 35 14 15 40 6 Bluse/ Blouse/ Blouse Blende / Facing / Revers 6 7 Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 168 cm: Grösse/ Size/ Taille Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/ Longueur taille devant Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/ 34 80 64 90 42 36 84 67 93 43 38 88 71 96 44 40 92 75 99 45 42 96 79 102 46 44 100 83 105 47 46 104 87 108 48 41 41 41 42 42 42 42 Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 66 Inch: Grösse/ Size/ Taille Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/ Longueur taille devant Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/ 34 31,5 25,2 35,4 16,5 36 33 26,4 36,6 17 38 34,6 28 37,8 17,3 40 36,2 29,5 39 17,7 42 37,8 31,1 40,2 18 44 39,4 32,7 41,3 18,5 46 40,9 34,3 42,5 18,9 16 16 16 16,5 16,5 16,5 16,5 Legende/Legend/ Légend Grösse/ Size/ Taille 7 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 Vordere Mitte Fadenlauf/ Centre front straight grain/ Droit fil milieu endroit 8 Bluse/ Blouse/ Blouse Vorderteil / front / élément avant 8 9 9