Origine natureelle pour ABC Te xtture Natturraal

T E N DA N C E S
TRENDS
Le 100 % naturel version GreenScents
ting on the properties of the
“natural fixing agents” of tonka
bean, benzoin and vanilla. Starting in January, it will be the Swiss
company Shantara’s turn to offer
the first women’s woody floral
fragrance of 100% natural origin
and 98% organic. Called Rêve
Étoilé, it has been composed by
Jean-Claude Gigodot (Sentaromatique) using 30 raw materials,
including sandalwood, patchouli,
rose and nard. Nard, from the
mountains of India, could pose
problems of supply, as Sébastien Magnin, founder and CEO of
Shantara, philosophically recognizes. It is in fact because of this
problem of supply in raw materials, if not of sourcing in the larger
sense, that many suppliers are
turning more to natural products
than organic. That is, when they
don’t back down on seeing the
price, which is often three times
higher than that of conventional
products, even if, as explained by
Mr. Joncheray, who is involved in
a luxury (€100) perfume concentrate project, “the differential is in
fact less significant, considering
the extremely high concentration
in perfume.”
What color scheme?
Photos D.R.
On the makeup segment, which
also has a lot of investment, the
problem of price is not as significant. Considering the base
weight of a product, “the natural
raw materials used are insignificant,” they say at Yves Rocher,
which markets Couleurs Nature,
29 products inspired from nature, its colors and effects, all
with textures enhanced with a
significant concentration of natural-origin raw materials (bamboo
silica, soy seeds, mineral nacres,
elemi gum) and coated with plant
extracts and mineral pigments.
The latter, with “more natural,
more muted
colors” than
azo colorants “have
« GreenScents est une nouvelle ligne de parfums composés d’ingrédients renouvelables 100 %
naturels issus du développement durable », explique Jack Corley, vice-président exécutif de
Trilogy Fragrances, Inc. Ils ne contiennent ni phthalates, parabens, sulfates, filtres solaires
chimiques ou ingrédients pétrochimiques. « Nous n’utilisons que des huiles essentielles naturelles
et biologiques, des Naturelates, des isolats obtenus par distillations d’huiles essentielles et
végétales », explique-t-il. La ligne GreenScents (Verveine Citronnelle et Vanille ou Pomme
Macintosh) a été développée conformément au standard Natural Personal Care de NPA (Natural
Product Association). L’entreprise met au point ses propres isolats grâce à des processus de
fractionnement par distillation à la vapeur et sous vide, sans introduction de solvants.
N.J.
The 100% natural GreenScents version
“GreenScents is a new line of fragrances composed of 100% renewable ingredients from sustainable
development channels,” explains Jack Corley, executive vice president of Trilogy Fragrances,
Inc. They contain no phthalates, parabens, sulfates, chemical sun filters or petrochemical
ingredients. “ We only use natural and organic essential oils, the Naturelates, fractionated using
essential oils and plant oils,” he explains. The GreenScents line (Verbena, Citronnella and Vanilla
or Macintosh Apple) was developed in compliance with the NPA (Natural Product Association)
Natural Personal Care standard. The company is developing its own isolates thanks to processes
of fractionation by steam and vacuum distillation, without using solvents.
N.J.
an affinity with natural beauty,”
says Narelle Chenery, of the
American brand Miessence. Mineral pigments are used alone (in
Pure Mineral Make-up eyeshadows and powder and liquid foundations by the Australian company Bloom, containing no talc,
preservatives or mineral oil);
are mixed with cochineal carmine and plant pigments (at the
German company Logona); and
are micronized in cream textures
(in the American brand Sukicolor’s multiuse products, like
its eye cream, which brightens or
shades the eyelids, makes up the
eyebrows or acts as an eyeliner).
They are then combined with other actives, naturals or organics
for a makeup/skincare dual solution. Others, however (Couleur
Caramel, whose lines are now
available in the two Maquillage
Caffè shops opened in Paris, or
Elysambre, the other Nature.cos
brand) prefer plant pigments.
Makeup and skincare go
well together
Thus the two Ecocert-certified
cream and compact foundations
by Patyka – the former containing golden algae and corncob
extracts, the latter date seed
extracts – are hydrating and antiage. Phyt’s Cosmebio line – an
eyeliner, mascara and foundation
(six shades), developed using vitamin E, hyaluronic acid and plant
extracts – nourishes, protects
and hydrates lashes and skin.
With its organic makeup,
Terre d’Oc unveils “the
real beauty secrets inspired by the women of a
country and an ingredient
used tradi-
tionally,” says Audrey Guyot, marketing manager. Following India
and pomegranate powder rich
in antioxidants, vitamin C, and
colorant properties primarily,
which she used to come up with
an illuminating skincare product, three eyeshadows that are a
“fusion between mineral and
plant pigments combined with
mother-of-pearl” and an organic,
sugar-based mascara with carnauba wax and rice powder, she
headed for Japan. These little
marvels – mineral salts rich in
trace elements – open onto a mineral foundation rich in light reflectors and cream eyeshadows that
turn into powder on application.
And she is getting ready to launch
an organic complexion corrector,
a cream texture with a powder
finish. Nvey Eco is straight from
the Southern hemisphere, with
references that are OFC certified (equivalent of AB): its creams
with recurring ingredients (vitamin A, C, B5, cartame oil, carrot
oil, etc) offer a multisensory line:
emulsion foundations for mature
skin; mascara with wheat protein
and cornflower floral water that
comes in black thanks to “terre
des Indes” earth pigments and
blue due to indigo; eyeshadows;
glosses; not to mention its latest, a special line for the lips that
includes scrub, lip treatment
and plumper. From now on, consumers will have a wide choice,
like certification-seeking brands
that after national labels will be
able to turn to Natrue (Weleda,
Wala, Lavera, Logona, Primavera) and Cosmos labels (Ecocert/
Cosmebio, ICEA, Soil, BDIH,
Bioforum). These two collections – one would have been preferable – could perhaps serve
the cause of naturals and organics, on condition the references are clear, purposeful and
not opposable.
antioxydants, en vitamine C,
avec des vertus colorantes en
prime, autour desquelles elle
a imaginé un soin illuminateur, trois ombres à paupières
« fusion entre pigments minéraux et végétaux associés à
des nacres », un mascara bio
à base de sucre, cire de carnauba, poudre de riz… elle a
pris la direction du Japon. Ses
fleurs de source – sels minéraux riches en oligoéléments –
éclosent sur un fond de teint
minéral riche en réflecteurs de
lumière et sur des ombres-crèmes à paupières qui se transforment en poudre à l’application. Et elle s’apprête à lancer
un correcteur de teint bio, texture crème au fini poudré. Venu
tout droit de l’hémisphère Sud,
Nvey Eco, avec des références certifiées OFC (équivalent
d’AB), des ingrédients récurrents (vitamines A, C, B5, huile
de cartame, de carotte…), propose une ligne polysensorielle :
fonds de teint émulsion pour
peaux matures, mascara aux
protéines de blé et eau florale
de bleuet décliné en noir grâce
à la terre des Indes, bleu via
l’indigo, des ombres à paupières, des gloss, sans oublier sa
dernière-née, une ligne spécifique pour les lèvres, qui compte
un exfoliant, un traitant et un
repulpant… Désormais, donc,
le consommateur a l’embarras
du choix, comme l’ont les marques en quête de certification,
qui, après les labels nationaux,
vont pouvoir se tourner vers les
Natrue – Weleda, Wala, Lavera,
Logona, Primavera – et Cosmos
– Ecocert/Cosmebio, ICEA, Soil,
BDIH, Bioforum. Deux rassemblements – un seul eut été préférable – qui pourront peut-être
servir la cause du naturel et du
bio, à condition que les référentiels soient clairs, ambitieux,
non opposables…
Originne natuureellee pour ABC Textture
A or
Al
orss qu
qu’e
ell
lle
e tr
t av
avai
a lle
e sa
sans
nss sil
n
iliiccon
o e – « no
notr
t e prem
tr
emiè
ière dém
émar
ma
arrch
che
e
c ns
co
nsiste
e à reg
e ar
arde
d r la
de
la bio
biodé
io
odé
dé g
grrad
adab
abil
ab
i itté des
il
des fo
de
form
rmul
ulles
es » – qu
qu’e
elllle
remp
re
mpla
lace
la
ce
ep
par
a des est
ar
ster
errs,, d’o
orriig
giine nat
atur
u el
ur
elle
le o
ou
u pa
pas,
s, ABC
BC Tex
Tex
exttu
ure
dé
éve
velo
lopp
ppe
pp
e du maq
aqu
uill
uill
ui
l ag
ge n
no
on p
pa
as bi
b o – « lles
es pig
igme
m ntts orga
me
gani
niq
qu
ues
ue
es
n offr
n’
offr
of
fren
entt pa
pass le
less mê
même
mess co
me
cou
ulleu
le
eu
urs
rs, mê
même
me
e si de nou
ouve
velll
ve
lles
es mat
atiè
ère
re s
arrri
r ve
vent
n » –,
– mai
aiss d’
d’or
orrig
i in
ne n
na
atur
turell
l e,
e vér
érittab
ble
l « ch
c al
alle
le
len
eng
n ge p
po
our
ur lle
e
form
fo
rm
mul
ula
atteu
e r », ra
rapp
pp
pel
elle
le Lou
uisset
ette
te Bou
urd
rdin
in,, fo
in
fond
ndatri
rice
e de la
a so
occié
été
té.
« No
Nouss d
dev
e ons
ev
on
ns ch
choi
o si
oi
sirr le
le bo
les
bons
ns pro
odu
duit
itss d’
it
d’or
orig
or
igin
ig
ine na
natture
turre
elllle po
pour
le
es tran
ttrrans
anssffor
an
orme
m r, parr exe
me
emple
mp
ple
e par
a bio
bio
i te
t ch
chno
nolo
nolo
ogie
gie »,
gi
», ra
raco
con
nttte
e celle
qu
q
ui p
prro
op
pos
osse
e de
d s co
comp
m acts ccou
mp
ou
o
ulé
lés,
s, sttiicck
ks ffo
ond
nd de tte
ein
int,
t, rou
ug
ge
es
à llè
èvvrrres
es, g
es
gllos
o s et m
mas
a ca
as
c ra
a su
urr cce
e se
egm
g en
ent où
o ù le
ess for
ormu
mulla
ati
t on
ns
co
oû
ûtte
en
nt 20
0 % de
e pl
p us q
que
e le
ess con
onve
vent
ve
nttio
ionn
ionn
n el
elle
ess..
S.D
S.
S
..D
D.
Nattural origgin for ABC Textture
While
Whil
e AB
A C Te
exturre wo
work
rks wi
with
thou
o t si
ou
sili
lico
cco
one
e – “Ou
Our firrsst step
Our
step
st
ep
cons
co
nssis
ists
ts iin
n look
lo
ookin
ing
g at
at the bio
ode
degr
gra
adab
ad
abil
bilit
itt y of ffor
orrm
mu
u
ula
lass,,” ssa
las
la
ays
ys the
he
co
comp
omp
mpan
anyy – it rep
an
epla
lacces
ces si
ce
sili
lico
lico
one
ne w
wit
ith es
it
este
terrs
rs o
off eith
eith
ei
ther
er na
er
attur
ural or
nonno
n-na
nnatu
na
tura
tu
rall or
ra
orig
ig
gin
in.. It is de
deve
deve
velo
lo
opi
ping
n not
ot org
rgan
nic m
mak
akeu
eu
up – “ or
orga
rga
ani
nicc
pigm
pi
gmen
gm
ents
en
ts d
don
on’t
on
’t off
ffer
e the
er
he sam
ame co
colo
lo
ors
rs, ev
even
n if ne
new
w ma
m te
teri
rial
ria
ri
als ar
are
e
appe
ap
pear
pe
arin
ar
ing”
in
g”” – b
but
ut n
nat
atur
urral
al-o
-origi
gnm
gi
ma
ake
keup,
keup
up
p, a re
r ea
all ““ch
ch
hal
alle
leng
le
nge
e fo
for th
he
fo
orm
rmul
ulat
ul
ator
at
or,”” rec
or
ecal
a ls
al
l ccom
om
o
mpa
pany
ny fo
ou
und
nde
der
er Lo
ou
uiset
e te Bou
ourd
r in
rd
n. “W
We
have
ha
ve to ch
hoo
oose
se the rrig
se
ig
igh
ght
ht nattur
ura
all-o
ori
rigi
g n pr
gi
prod
oduc
ucts
tss to tr
tran
an
nsf
sform
t em
th
em, fo
forr ex
exam
am
mple
ple by b
pl
bio
io
otte
ech
chn
hno
nolo
logy,”
logy
gyy,”
,” say
ays tth
he pe
ers
rson
on who
ho o
offerss
stic
st
tic
ick
kss, fo
f un
unda
d ti
da
tion
o stiick
on
cks,
s, llip
ipst
ip
s iccks
k , g
gllosss and ma
masc
scar
a ass on th
ar
his
segm
se
men
ent wh
ent
wher
ere
e fo
f rm
rmul
u at
atio
ions
io
nss ccosst 20
0% more tha
h n co
c nv
nven
en
ntion
tional
ti
onal
on
al
form
fo
ormullattio
ons
n .
S.D
S
.D
D
D.
03-2009
BEYOND BEAUTY MAG
19