Models for the evalua+on of dermo-‐ cosme+c hair products

 Models for the evalua5on of dermo-­‐
cosme5c hair products* *Modèles perme-ant l’évalua5on de produits dermo-­‐cosmé5ques à visée pilaire ou capillaire Stéphanie Scalvino Ingénieur de recherche, PhD Le laboratoire BIO-­‐EC est agréé par le ministère de la Recherche au :tre du Crédit Impôt Recherche. Centre de Recherches Biologiques et d’Expérimenta:ons Cutanées 1, Chemin de Saulxier -­‐ 91160 Longjumeau -­‐ France www.bio-­‐ec.fr info@bio-­‐ec.fr Dermo-­‐cosme5c claims q  S5mula5on of hair growth q  An5 hair loss q  Hair quality improvement and protec5on q  Color protec5on and whitening reduc5on q  Body hair growth reduc5on q  Elimina5on of body hair 3 hair models q  Human scalp or hairy skin explants q  Isolated human scalp hairs q  Plucked human hairs in vivo Hair follicle and its environment HAIR FOLLICLE Epidermis Dermis Hypodermis Sebaceous gland Explants from human scalp or hairy skin Up to 10 days in BEM medium Treatment in medium Advantages: q  Any kind of tested products and device -­‐ Ac5ves, creams, pulse laser, depila5on methods … Topical treatment q  Numerous hairs analyzed HAIR FOLLICLES + sebaceous glands Epidermis Dermis Hypodermis q  Histological analysis -­‐ Whole hair and skin structures q  Transcriptome analysis -­‐ High quan5ty of RNA q  Biochemical analysis -­‐ High quan5ty of medium sampling Isolated human scalp hairs Treatment in medium Up to 10 days in supplemented William’s medium Advantages: q  Very sensi5ve model quan5ty of tested product -­‐ small -­‐ no barrier effect between product and hair q  Best model to evaluate hair growth q  Each hair analyzed separately HAIR FOLLICLE + sebaceous gland q  Histological analysis -­‐ Whole hair and skin structures close to the hair Epidermis q  Transcriptome analysis Dermis Hypodermis -­‐ Good quan5ty of RNA q  Biochemical analysis -­‐ Good quan5ty of medium sampling In vivo TrichoScan® + human plucked hairs Advantages: q  On volunteers in vivo, any kind of final tested products (lo5on, shampoo, food supplement…) q  TrichoScan®, a computerized trichogram for -­‐ Hair density -­‐ Hair growth and cycle phase -­‐ Hair diameter q  Plucked hairs are -­‐ non invasive -­‐ a good alterna5ve to biopsies q  Histological analysis -­‐ Lower part of hair follicle q  Transcriptome analysis -­‐ Good quan5ty of RNA Measurements using the hair models Average hair growth P: Product T: Plasty control Growth (µm) q  Hair growth !
Number of days q  Histological analysis of hair follicle markers General
morphology
Bulb in the
anagen phase
Laminin-5
( anchorage)
Melanin (propigmenting)
KI67 (Mitotic
index)
q  Biochemical analysis of secreted markers -­‐ cytokines, growth factors, glycerol, MDA… q  Transcriptome analysis GAG (antiaging)
Thanks to
The team of BIO-­‐EC Laboratory Emmeline Blondet Magalie Daniel Cynthia Delpy Caroline Durand Philippe Gasser Ta5ana Judith Pauline Meunier Laurent Peno-­‐Mazzarino Giuseppe Percoco Doriane Reby Philippe Transon Annie Verdier Elian La5 The team of GENEX Laboratory Thomas Bader Philippe Benech Angela Pata5an