Newsletter - 1104

www.timelab.ch
Newsletter N°4 – October 26th, 2011
From the creation of the « Poinçon de Genève » to the Watchmaking
School
The late 19th century saw the disappearance of one of
Geneva’s speciality crafts: Until that time, and from its
beginnings in the 16th century, the precious art of
enamels had developed and emancipated itself in close
symbiosis with watchmaking. This loss coincided with the
advent of industrialized watchmaking.
Protesting this industrialization, which they considered an assassination
of independent craftsmen and creativity itself, was a small group of
cabinotiers (watchmakers working on their own account in attic
workshops). Already more than a third of Genevan watchmakers were
working for large corporations. By the turn of the century, half of them had joined the industrial system.
The most important skills were far from lost however, beginning with the Genevan instinct for
watchmaking innovation. The firms Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe were the first to show the
way by developing a complete tooling system able to mechanically produce all the pieces of a watch and
by launching the first winder watches onto the market. Exports attained their zenith with already
conquered customers in the Far East, the Spanish and Portuguese colonies in the Americas and even the
United States.
The next step was to head towards the high-end spectrum. Upscale watches, jewel-watches and
collectors’ watches were in strong demand. With yearly production approaching a million pieces, Genevan
watch exports represented more than a third of total Swiss exports in value at the end of the 19th
century. Thanks to interchangeable components and standardization, Genevan and Swiss horology
attained world supremacy. The end of the First World War coincided with the introduction of the
wristwatch, to be followed later by the first electric watches.
On top of their vitality, Swiss brands were also bolstered by the 1880 federal law on brand protection
(“Swiss made”) that had been loudly demanded by the 152 watchmaking firms in the face of foreign
competition. In Geneva they could also count on the “Hallmark of Geneva” (1886), a label whose
reputation was beginning to transcend borders. The Hallmark law would be refined and adapted to
contemporary developments in 1891, 1931 and 1955.
Simultaneously, a decisive push was made to train young watchmakers. This effort, which would never
slacken and would constitute a cornerstone of Genevan excellence, began with the founding of the Ecole
d’Horlogerie (Watchmaking School) in 1823. Its goals were to “offer young people entering the
watchmaking profession the apprenticeship periods and training necessary to become dexterous
craftsmen, at the same time providing them with the means of acquiring, promptly and at little cost,
skills that they can use immediately.”
TIMELAB | Chemin de la Gravière 2 | CH – 1227 Les Acacias - Genève
Tél. +41 (0)22 308 58 80 | Fax +41 (0)22 308 58 81 | [email protected] | www.timelab.ch
In point of fact, the rapid expansion of watchmaking in the previous century had led to a strong division
of labour. As a consequence, most young people received a short apprenticeship limited to only a small
part of the production process. Now they could enjoy a thorough educational course. Moreover, from
1879 the Geneva Watchmaking School included training in the mechanical manufacture of watches.
The Geneva Watchmaking School would be followed by the creation of those of La Chaux-de-Fonds in
1865, Saint-Imier in 1866, Le Locle in 1868, Neuchâtel in 1871, Biel in 1873 and Fleurier in 1875. Not to
mention that of Besançon, France, founded in 1862 by a Swiss master watchmaker. To be noted in
passing is that these Swiss schools were given the task of certifying chronometers, a responsibility now
held by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Certification). The establishment of the Technicum in 1901
would further refine watchmaking education, this time at an advanced level.
As can be seen, training in the horology field faithfully followed industrial developments. During the 20th
century, the schools evolved into suppliers of watchmaking technicians destined for research labs and
specialized company workshops. Aspiring managers enrolled at tertiary technical institutes and industrial
schools, while future skilled workers and foremen attended the watchmaking schools. Lastly, the applied
arts schools provided training in related domains like jewellery-making, engraving and enamelwork.
Backed by local communities, horological training bolstered the trend of ever-increasing watch
production. The doors were opened wider than ever for young women to join the field. Reforms were
continuous until the glum years between 1943 and 1945 when the technical training institutes were
temporarily moved to the Prairie neighbourhood that housed the Ecole des Arts et Métiers. In any event,
the movement had taken inertia. Students enrolled in a watchmaking technician course now follow three
years of basic training and, if they wish, spend three more years at the Technicum. As Geneva watches
continue to remain faithful to their reputation for high quality movements and fine exterior appearance,
the techniques of enamelling and jewellery-making have even been reintroduced into the education
programmes... a throwback to the good old days and the traditional spirit of the 17th and 18th centuries!
Classe des jeunes filles, poseuse de spiraux, vers 1920
TIMELAB | Chemin de la Gravière 2 | CH – 1227 Les Acacias - Genève
Tél. +41 (0)22 308 58 80 | Fax +41 (0)22 308 58 81 | [email protected] | www.timelab.ch
Sources :
-
L’homme et le temps en Suisse, 1291-1991, under the direction of Catherine Cardinal. Musée
International de l’Horlogerie.
Histoire économique de Genève, by Antony Babel. 1953. Jullien.
Encyclopédie de Genève, l’industrie, l’artisanat et les arts appliqués.
Brève histoire de Genève, by Luis Binz. Chancellerie d’Etat de Genève, 2000.
Histoire corporative de l’horlogerie, de l’orfèvrerie, by Antony Babel. Thesis, SES University of
Geneva, 1916.
Economie genevoise, de la Réforme à la fin de l’Ancien régime, by Anne-Marie Piuz and
Liliane Mottu-Weber, 1990. Georg.
Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH)
The Geneva Watchmaking School : an incubator for young talent
What a long road has been travelled from the founding of the Ecole d’Horlogerie de
Genève in 1823 until now!
Imagine. On the Place Longemalle, formerly the Place de la Grenette, each student, of exclusively
Genevan citizenship, had to pay his own schooling, procure and bring his own tools and prove his
determination for three months before being allowed full admission. Courses began at 5 a.m. in summer
and 6 a.m. in winter, Monday to Saturday, and were given by the light of oil lamps...
Over the years and according to needs, the School had often to change location. In 1879, a purpose-built
edifice was constructed on Rue Necker, where the increasingly numerous female students took their
classes. After the 1933 crisis, the decision was made to integrate the Ecole des Arts et Métiers before
moving to Petit-Lancy in 1966.
Nowadays, the Watchmaking School of the Rue du Pont-Butin caters to 238 students per year,
accompanied by 26 watchmaking instructors and a number of non-specialist teachers. Three specific
state-financed programmes lead to the requisite CFC certificate (Federal Certificate of Proficiency).
Director Pierre Amstutz is in charge of administration and corporate relations with Rolex, Vacheron
Constantin, Chopard and Patek Philippe, where students are sent as trainees.
Even if conditions are more pleasant than in the 19th century, the educational requirements are still
demanding. In the course of their training, students create from scratch an entire complicated "school
watch" worthy of receiving the "Hallmark of Geneva" and the COSC Official Swiss Chronometer
Certification. Nearly thirty disciples graduate from the programme to become certified watchmakers
every year.
Sources:
-
Pierre Amstutz, director of the Ecole d’horlogerie de Genève
L’Ecole d’horlogerie de Genève, 1824-1974, Département de l’instruction publique.
1824-1999, 175ème Ecole d’horlogerie, Département de l’instruction publique.
TIMELAB | Chemin de la Gravière 2 | CH – 1227 Les Acacias - Genève
Tél. +41 (0)22 308 58 80 | Fax +41 (0)22 308 58 81 | [email protected] | www.timelab.ch
Watchmaking School, Rue Necker in 1924
Sources :
-
Pierre Amstutz, directeur de l’Ecole d’horlogerie de Genève
L’Ecole d’horlogerie de Genève, 1824-1974, Département de l’instruction publique.
1824-1999, 175ème Ecole d’horlogerie, Département de l’instruction publique.
About the author:
Serge Bimpage is living in Geneva. Journalist, he worked at “Journal de Genève”, at “L’Hebdo” then at the “Tribune
de Genève”. Writer, he is the author of several fictions whose last one is “Le Voyage inachevé” (L’Aïre Edition)
TIMELAB | Chemin de la Gravière 2 | CH – 1227 Les Acacias - Genève
Tél. +41 (0)22 308 58 80 | Fax +41 (0)22 308 58 81 | [email protected] | www.timelab.ch