M ichel - Wine Spectator

The Wines of
Michel
Rolland
100 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Toscana Masseto
2001 $250 Wonderful aromas of blackberries,
raspberries and fresh tobacco, with a hint of exotic
fruit. Full-bodied, with loads of velvety tannins and a
long, long finish. Very silky indeed. A gorgeous, seductive, classy red. A monument to Tuscany. Layers
and layers of fruit and tannins. Best after 2012.
2,670 cases made.—J.S.
99 Harlan Estate Napa Valley 2002 $245
Wonderful perfumed and floral aromas, with rich
cassis, blackberry and wild berry fruit scents. On the
palate those flavors are intense and vibrant, creating
a mouthcoating sensation and finishing with a persistent aftertaste and rich, integrated tannins. Best from
2007 through 2015. 1,248 cases made.—J.L.
99 Sloan Rutherford 2002 $NA Flirting with
perfection, as the fruit is absolutely gorgeous, seemingly flawless, with its tremendous, silky texture, layers of currant, black licorice, blackberry and wild
berry fruit. Despite all its richness, depth and complexity, it ends on a plush note, with ripe, finegrained tannins. Best from 2007 through 2014. 420
cases made.—J.L.
Wineries Wholly or Partly
Owned by Rolland
Château Le Bon-Pasteur (Pomerol)
Château Fontenil (Fronsac)
Le Défi de Fontenil (Vin de Table, France)
Bertineau St.-Vincent (Lalande de Pomerol)
Château Rolland-Maillet (St.-Emilion)
La Grande Clotte (Lussac; red)
La Grande Clotte (Bordeaux; white)
Campo Eliseo (Toro, Spain)
Bonne Nouvelle (South Africa)
Val de Flores (Mendoza, Argentina)
Bodega San Pedro de Yacochuya (Cafayate,
Argentina)
Clients From Around the
World
Argentina
Bodega Benegas*
Carinae*
Clos de los Siete
Cuvelier de Los Andes
Bodegas del Fin del Mundo
Flechas de los Andes
Monteviejo
Finca Sophenia*
Brazil
Miolo
Bulgaria
Telish
Canada
Mission Hill
Chile
Casa Lapostolle
France
Château Angélus (St.-Emilion)
Château d’Arsac (Winemaker Collection)
Château Ausone (St.-Emilion)
La Bastide Blanche* (Côtes de Provence)
Château Beauregard (Pomerol)
Michel Rolland, his wife, Dany, and their team of enologists have built what may be the most
extensive wine-consulting business in the world. Today, Rolland works with more than 150
wineries from 13 countries around the world. A complete list of current clients appears at bottom.
Below, you’ll find Wine Spectator reviews of 10 of Rolland’s most significant wines (including
two from Bordeaux châteaus he owns: Le Bon-Pasteur and Fontenil). All were tasted blind, by
various editors; we have included complete tasting notes so you can see how the wines vary, and
how they may be similar in style. They are organized in descending score order.
96 Château Ausone St.-Emilion 2003 $750
Loads of blackberry, plum and strawberry. Intense
fruit. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and layers of
everything. Wonderful balance and refinement.
Closed up already. Very serious wine. Best after
2012. 1,375 cases made.—J.S.
95 Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta Colchagua 2001
$55 Stunning purity, with concentrated plum, boysenberry and raspberry fruit that just glides across
the palate, buttressed by superfine yet muscular tannins. Suave toast, coconut butter and spice notes
along with alluring chocolate and black tea hints
chime in on the long finish. A superb combination of
fruit and elegance. Drink now through 2009. 4,885
cases made.—J.M.
93 Campo Eliseo Toro 2001 $60 Power to
spare. This inky, thick red carries an enormous load
of toasty oak and ripe black fruit, yet remains balanced, even graceful on the palate. Coffee and
chocolate notes from oak dominate now, but there’s
plenty of stuffing to age. Like a bodybuilder: not
quite natural, but impressive. Tinta de Toro. Best
after 2005. 750 cases made.—T.M.
Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse*
(St.-Emilion)
Château Beau-Séjour Bécot* (St.-Emilion)
Château Belgrave (Haut-Médoc)
Château de Belcier* (Côtes de Castillon)
Château Bellefont-Belcier (St.-Emilion)
Château Bonalgue* (Pomerol)
Château Branas Grand Poujeaux (Moulis)
Château Brillette (Moulis)
Château Camensac (Haut-Médoc)
Château de Candale (St.-Emilion)
Château Cap de Mourlin* (St.-Emilion)
Château Certan de May (Pomerol)
Château Chauvin* (St.-Emilion)
Château Citran (Haut-Médoc)
Château Clarke (Listrac)
Château Clinet (Pomerol)
Clos du Clocher* (Pomerol)
Clos des Jacobins (St.-Emilion)
Clos St.-Martin (St.-Emilion)
Château La Clotte* (St.-Emilion)
Château Corbin* (St.-Emilion)
Château La Couspaude (St.-Emilion)
Château Dalem* (Fronsac)
Château Dassault (St.-Emilion)
Château Destieux (St.-Emilion)
Château La Dominique* (St.-Emilion)
Château Le Doyenné*
(1ères Côtes de Bordeaux)
Essence de Dourthe (Bordeaux)
Château L’Evangile (Pomerol)
Château Faugères (St.-Emilion)
Château Jean-Faure (St.-Emilion)
Château de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan)
Château Fleur-Cardinale* (St.-Emilion)
Château Fonplégade (St.-Emilion)
Château Franc-Mayne (St.-Emilion)
Château de France* (Pessac-Léognan)
Château La Garde (Pessac-Léognan)
Château Garraud* (Lalande de Pomerol)
Château Le Gay (Pomerol)
Girolate (Bordeaux)
Château La Gomerie* (St.-Emilion)
Château Gracia* (St.-Emilion)
Château Grand-Mayne (St.-Emilion)
Château Grand Ormeau (Lalande de Pomerol)
*Indicates a property where Rolland’s role is limited, with most responsibilities delegated to assistant consultants.
92 Pedestal Merlot Columbia Valley 2003 $55
Big, rich and generous, a lavish mouthful of currant,
blackberry and a touch of spice and earth that weave
through the finish and linger. First wine from a partnership involving Michel Rolland in Washington. Best
from 2007 through 2013. 553 cases made.—H.S.
91 Château Lascombes Margaux 2003 $45
Aromas of blackberry and chocolate follow through to
a full-bodied palate, with big velvety tannins and a
long, caressing finish. Best after 2010. 17,500
cases made.—J.S.
90 Château Le Bon-Pasteur Pomerol 2003 $54
Aromas of flowers, dark fruits and anise. Full-bodied,
with fine tannins and a fruity, citrus aftertaste. Subtle
and firm. Dig down to find it all. Best after 2009.
1,905 cases made.—J.S.
90 Château Fontenil Fronsac 2003 $25
Impressive aromas of toasted oak and ripe fruit with
some chocolate underneath. Full and round, with velvety tannins and a medium fruity finish. Very tannic
and chewy. Should come around nicely with bottle
age. Best after 2008. 3,250 cases made.—J.S.
Château Grand-Pontet* (St.-Emilion)
Château Les Grandes Murailles (St.-Emilion)
Château Les Grands Chênes (Médoc)
La Grave Béchade* (Côtes de Duras)
Château La Gravière (Lalande de Pomerol)
Château Haut Brisson* (St.-Emilion)
Château Kirwan (Margaux)
Château Lagarosse (1ères Côtes de Bordeaux)
Château Lagrezette* (Cahors)
Château Larmande* (St.-Emilion)
Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion
(Pessac-Léognan)
Château Lascombes (Margaux)
Château Latour Martillac (Pessac-Léognan)
Château des Laurets* (Puisseguin-St.-Emilion)
Château Léoville Poyferré (St.-Julien)
Château Loudenne (Médoc)
Château de Lussac* (Lussac-St.-Emilion)
Magrez Fombrauge (St.-Emilion)
Château Malartic-Lagravière (Pessac-Léognan)
Château Malescot-St.-Exupéry (Margaux)
Mas Amiel* (Côtes du Roussillon)
Château Monbousquet (St.-Emilion)
Château Mont-Pérat (Bordeaux Supérieur)
Château Montviel (Pomerol)
Château Moulin Haut-Laroque* (Fronsac)
Château Moulin Pey-Labrie* (Canon Fronsac)
Château Pape Clément (Pessac-Léognan)
Château Pavie (St.-Emilion)
Château Pavie-Decesse (St.-Emilion)
Château Péby-Faugères (St.-Emilion)
Château Petit-Village (Pomerol)
Château Pey La Tour (Bordeaux Supérieur)
Château Pomeaux (Pomerol)
Château Pontet-Canet (Pauillac)
Château Puech-Haut* (Coteaux du Languedoc)
Château Quinault-L’Enclos* (St.-Emilion)
Château de Reignac (Bordeaux Supérieur)
Château Ripeau* (St.-Emilion)
Château Rocher Bellevue Figeac*
(St.-Emilion)
Château Rouget (Pomerol)
Château de Rouillac (Pessac-Léognan)
Château Roylland* (St.-Emilion)
Château St.-Georges*
(St.-Georges-St.-Emilion)
Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte (Pessac-Léognan)
Château Teyssier (Montagne St.-Emilion)
Thénac* (Côtes de Bergerac)
Château La Tour Carnet (Haut-Médoc)
Château Tour de Mirambeau (Bordeaux)
Château Troplong-Mondot (St.-Emilion)
Château de Valandraud (St.-Emilion)
Château La Vieille Cure* (Fronsac)
Château Vieux Maillet* (Pomerol)
Greece
Domaine Lazaridi
India
Grover Vineyards
Italy
Campo di Sasso
Folonari
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia
Tolaini
Portugal
Eugénio de Almeida
South Africa
L’Ormarins
Rupert & Rothschild
Spain
Marqués de Cáceres
Marqués de Griñon
Seguras Viudas
U.S. / California
Araujo
Bond
Bryant Family
Cliff Lede
Dalla Valle
Harlan Estate
Johnson Nelson
Jonata
B. Magrez
Newton
Pahlmeyer
Quintessa
Sloan
Staglin
U.S. / Washington
Pedestal
U.S. / Virginia
Kluge Estate Winery
SOURCE: MICHEL ROLLAND