University of Florida, Paris Research Center Spring Break, March 11

lived and wrote during the last four decades of his life, and home to the Notre Dame
Cathedral of Amiens, the largest and one of the most beautiful gothic cathedrals of Europe.
University of Florida, Paris Research Center
Spring Break, March 11–17, 2007
“Jules Verne’s Paris in the – 21st – Century” (ENC 4956, 2 credits)
Professor Terry Harpold
voice: (352) 392-6650 x282
email: <[email protected]>
home page for Terry Harpold:
<http://www.english.ufl.edu/~tharpold>
home page for ENC 4956:
<http://www.english.ufl.edu/~tharpold/courses/spring07/enc4956>
Believed apocryphal until its manuscript was rediscovered in 1993, Paris in the 20th
Century portrays the dispiriting urban landscapes and impoverished cultural life of a
hyper-materialist Paris of the early 1960s, refashioned by a series of gigantic architectural
and city planning schemes like Haussmann’s and driven to soulless efficiency by
“American ardor” and “the demon of fortune.”
We will begin with an examination of the general plan of the 20th century Paris imagined
by Verne: how its boundaries are determined, how its transit systems operate (he
envisages a system of elevated railways encircling and traversing the city), and how it has
been opened to new forms of exchange with the larger world (Verne predicts a canal
connecting the city to Le Havre: Paris is an ocean port!) We will contrast this imagined
Paris with contours and systems of the city as it actually was in the 1960s, and as it is
today. Legacies of Haussmann’s unprecedented rebuilding are plain everywhere in
modern Paris, and Haussmannisme continues to inform the techniques, esthetics, and
politics of new construction.
Verne’s novel will serve as our basis for three tours of 21st century Paris, including parts
of the city transformed by Haussmannism, and doubling paths followed by Verne’s hero,
Michel Dufrénoy, in the novel’s closing chapters. We’ll travel mostly by foot, with the odd
Métro jump:
…from the Champ de Mars (we’ll ascend the Eiffel Tower for a panoramic view of the
modern city) to the Latin Quarter, Île de la Cité, the Cathédrale de Notre Dame de
Paris, and the Pont Neuf;
…from the Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile (another ascent, to view the city from its
western periphery) to the Jardins des Tuileries and the Louvre, the Grands Boulevards
and the Opéra de Paris Garnier, the grandest example of Second Empire architecture;
“Paris to Come” – postcards from the early 20th century
(Left: “The Seine has become a maritime port!”)
Course description
A week-long Vernian tour of Paris focusing on architectural, social, and cultural changes
produced by the city’s massive rebuilding between 1853 and 1870 under the direction of
the Baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann. Our primary guidebook will be Verne’s
unfinished 1863 novel, Paris in the 20th Century, in which he envisaged a postHaussmann Paris of the 1960s: rational, hygienic, and prosperous; freed of medieval
squalor but stripped of its artistic soul. We will also visit nearby Amiens, where Verne
ENC 4956 (Spring 2007) • page 1 of 1
…from the gardens of the Palais-Royale (present-day home of the French National
Government) to Les Halles, Beaubourg, and the Centre Georges Pompidou (equally
celebrated and derided exemplars of 20th century Parisian architecture), to the Place
des Vosges and the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise, the largest cemetery in Paris and the
final resting place of Abélard and Héloise, Balzac, Chopin, La Fontaine, Molière, and
many other luminaries of European and American art, literature, music, and politics.
Our aim in these excursions will not be to measure how accurately Verne forecast the
modern Parisian landscape but instead to ask, what are the topographic bases of a work of
speculative fiction like Paris in the 20th Century? How do the entanglements of real and
imagined spaces in which a fiction is staged determine its form and its messages?
ENC 4956 (Spring 2007) • page 2 of 2
During a day trip to Amiens (a 75 minute train ride from Paris), we will visit the newlyrenovated Maison de Jules Verne, where the author lived and wrote during the last four
decades of his life, and home to an important collection of Verniana. We will also visit the
Notre Dame Cathedral of Amiens. Constructed in the 13th century, it is the largest and
one of the most beautiful gothic cathedrals of Europe.
Our week in Paris will conclude with a visit to La Défense, Paris’s skyscraper district and
the largest purpose-built business district in Europe. Sited at the Western terminus of the
Axe Historique (Historic Axis) that runs from the Louvre through the Jardin de Tuileries
and the Arc de Triomphe, La Défense is in many respects the modern sequel to
Haussmann’s rebuilding of Paris. It is home to more than 100 towering office buildings,
the glass and marble Grande Arche de la Fraternité (our final ascent, to the top of this
gigantic re-envisioning of the Arc de Triomphe) and splendid outdoor gardens of murals,
fountains, and monumental modern sculpture.
Graded assignment for course
Students will be required to record sites encountered on our Vernian tours with video
and/or still photography. Three weeks after their return to UF, they will complete a research
paper (10–12 pages, not including images) documenting architectural changes between
the 19th and 21st century cities (illustrated by the images they recorded in Paris) and
comparing these in detail to corresponding sites described in Verne’s Paris in the 20th
Century. The goal of the assignment is to analyze specific departures of Verne’s imagined
Paris from the actual history of Haussmannism, and to identify those changes in the city
(for example, the creation of La Défense) that may be said in some respects to match the
spirit if not the letter of Verne’s satirical vision of modern Parisian urbanism.
Note: “Group” meals are paid for by the PRC, as are the costs of admission to most
venues. “On your own meals” are paid for by students. A few, very inexpensive,
admissions to venues will also be the responsibility of students.
Venues marked with an asterisk (*) in the itinerary are featured in Michel Dufrénoy’s
several walks in 20th century Paris. Times indicated below are, as is the norm in Paris, on a
24 hour clock – i.e., 10h00 = 10 AM, 18h45 = 6:45 PM.
Sunday, March 4
Pre-departure group dinner at Professor Harpold’s home
Sunday, March 11
Morning: Students arrive/settle into Hotel Mistral (24, rue Cels, 14e arr., Métro Gaîté);
check in at the Paris Research Center (PRC), Reid Hall, 6, rue de Chevreuse
(Montparnasse, 6e arr., Métro Vavin)
15h30–16h30: Reception at the PRC, Grande Salle, Reid Hall (Dr. Gayle Zachmann,
Director, PRC; Rachel Gora, Coordinator of Logistics, PRC)
17h00–18h45: Group welcome dinner, Chez Fernand, 9, rue Christine (Faubourg St.
Germain/Quartier Latin, 6e arr., Métro Odéon)
19h30 (approx.): Bateaux-Mouches tour of Paris from the Seine, departing from the Pont
de l’Alma (8e arr., Métro Alma Marceau)
Monday, March 12
9h00–10h00: Optional visit to the Cimetière du Montparnasse*.
Course schedule & itinerary (version 3/8/07)
Details: Meet at Hotel Mistral. Walk in direction of PRC via the cemetary, where we will
view famous gravesites including those of Charles Baudelaire, Pierre-Jules Hetzel, and
Louis-Jules Hetzel.
Prior to departure for France
Three lectures by Professor Harpold on modern Parisian urbanism, Verne, and Paris in the
20th Century. Prior to the lectures, students are required to have read Paris in the 20th
Century and selected articles on Haussmannism. Times and locations TBA.
Students are required to purchase in advance of the trip Richard Howard’s English
translation of Verne’s novel (Ballantine Books, 1996), copies of which are available at
Goerings Book Store, 1717 NW 1st Avenue (voice: 377-3703). Other required readings
will be made available via UF’s George A. Smathers Libraries Electronic Reserves
<http://eres.uflib.ufl.edu>.
ENC 4956 (Spring 2007) • page 3 of 3
10h00–11h00: Orientation at the PRC, Salle de Conférence, Reid Hall (Dr. Gayle
Zachmann, Director PRC)
11h00–12h00: Meeting to review our planned itineraries, last-minute changes or
additions, etc. Room TBA. Group lunch at the PRC.
ENC 4956 (Spring 2007) • page 4 of 4
12h00 – 19h00: Tour Eiffel (ascent to view city), Champ de Mars, Pont St. Michel, Île de la
Cité, Notre Dame de Paris, Pont Neuf, Quai des Grands Augustins.
Details: Métro Edgar Quinet to Métro Champ de Mars. Walk to Tour Eiffel. Ascend
Tour Eiffel for panoramic view of the city. Walk through the Parc du Champ de Mars*,
proceeding eastward, in the direction of the École Militaire*. Métro La Motte Picquet to
Métro Cluny/La Sorbonne. Walk north on Boulevard St. Michel in direction of the
Seine, past La Sorbonne*, the Fontaine St. Michel*, and the Pont St. Michel*. Detour to
La Librairie Jules Verne, rue Lagrange, the foremost bookstore devoted to the
cartonnages Hetzel in the world. Cross the Pont St. Michel*, to Cathédrale de Notre
Dame de Paris*. Self-guided tour of Cathédrale de Notre Dame de Paris* (1 hour).
Regroup in front of the Cathedral, near the point zéro des routes de France (from which
all distances in France relative to Paris are calculated). Follow the Quai de l’Horloge*
(north bank of Île de la Cité) west, passing the Palais de Justice*, the Conciergerie*, to
the Pont Neuf*. Cross over the Pont Neuf* to the Left Bank, in sight of the Institut de
France*, follow the Quai des Grands Augustins* back toward Pont Saint-Michel*.
19h00: Dinner on your own in the Latin Quarter
Tuesday, March 13
9h00–17h00: Étoile (ascent of Arc de Triomphe to view city), Avenue des Champs Élysées,
Opéra, the Grands Boulevards. Light lunch in the Jardin des Tuileries.
Details: Meet at the Hotel Mistral. Métro Edgar Quinet to Charles-de-Gaulle Étoile.
Ascend the Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile for view of the Champs Élysées to the east and
La Défense to the west. Walk eastward on Avenue des Champs Élysées in the direction
of the Jardin des Tuileries and the Louvre*. Light lunch (crêpes?) in the Jardin, in the
vicinity of the Louvre. Double back north-westward on the Avenue de l’Opéra in the
direction of the Opéra de Paris Garnier (Palais Garnier). Self-guided tour of the Opéra
(Palais Garnier). Métro Opéra to Métro Châtelet-Les-Halles.
17h00: Dinner on your own in vicinity of Châtelet-Les-Halles
19h00–20h30: Symposium on “Jules Verne’s Paris” at the PRC, with the participation of
Daniel Compère and Jean-Michel Margot, moderated by Terry Harpold
Daniel Compère (Paris III, Université de la Sorbonne nouvelle) is the author of
numerous articles and books on Alexandre Dumas, Albert Robida, Jules Verne,
fantastic fiction and the popular novel. In 1972, he founded the Centre de
Documentation Jules Verne (Amiens).
ENC 4956 (Spring 2007) • page 5 of 5
Jean-Michel Margot is President of the North American Jules Verne Society. An
independent scholar, he has published numerous articles on Verne and has edited
several modern editions and translations of plays and novels by Verne, and two
collections of documents related to the author’s reception in the popular press of the
late 19th century. The foremost bibliographer of Verne studies, Margot’s personal
collection of Verne scholarship is the most extensive in the world.
20h30: Reception at the PRC for MM. Compère and Margot
Wednesday, March 14
10h00–17h30: Palais Royal, Beaubourg, Marais, Place des Vosges, Cimetière du Père
Lachaise. Group picnic lunch at the Place des Vosges.
Details: Meet at the Hotel Mistral. Métro Montparnasse-Bienvenue to Métro ChâteletLes-Halles, to Palais Royal*. Walk from the Palais-Royal (Galerie de Valois)*, along the
Banque de France*, to the Place des Victoires, then east along the Rue Étienne Marcel
to the Boulevard de Sébastopol. Walk south on the Boulevard de Sébastopol from Rue
Étienne Marcel to Beaubourg (Centre Pompidou), Place Georges Pompidou. Linger in
the vicinity of Beaubourg until late morning.
Regroup at the Stravinsky Fountain. Walk from Beaubourg east along the rue des
Francs Bourgeois to the Place des Vosges*. Group picnic lunch in the Place des
Vosges*. Walk east in the direction of Place Léon Blum and rue de la Roquette. Walk
east along rue de la Roquette to Porte principale (main gate) of Cimetière du Père
Lachaise*. Walking tour of Cimetière Père Lachaise*, retracing Michel Dufrénoy’s path
in the cemetery then splitting up in small groups to visit famous gravesites.
18h00: Dinner on your own. I recommend returning to the vicinity of Beaubourg.
19h45–21h45: Musée du Louvre (Métro Palais-Royal–Musée du Louvre)
Thursday, March 15
Day trip to Amiens
7h00: Leave from Hotel Mistral for Gare du Nord (from Métro Vavin)
8h04: Departure by train from Gare du Nord
9h14: Arrive at Amiens train station. Walk to the Cathédrale Notre-Dame, Amiens. On our
way will pass the Théâtre Municipal d’Amiens
10h00–12h00: Tour of Cathédrale Notre-Dame, Amiens
ENC 4956 (Spring 2007) • page 6 of 6
12h00–14h00: Lunch on your own. Reservations have been made at the Restaurant aux
As du Don, 1 pl. Don, Amiens (in vicinity of Cathédrale Notre-Dame, Amiens), which
specializes in dishes of the Picardie region
14h00: Travel by public bus to Cimetière de la Madeleine to visit the tomb of Jules Verne
15h00: Visit to Cirque Municipal d’Amiens (“Cirque Jules Verne” – “Circus Jules Verne”)
16h00: Walk from the Cirque to the Maison Jules Verne. We will pass 44, Boulevard JulesVerne (former Boulevard Longeville), where Verne died
16h30–18h00: Tour of the Maison Jules Verne (2, rue Charles-Dubois) with Jean-Michel
Margot as our guide
18h00 PM: Dinner on your own in Amiens
20h09: Departure from Amiens train station
21h20: Arrive in Paris, Gare du Nord
Friday, March 16
Day trip to La Défense
10h00: Meet at Hotel Mistral. Métro Edgar Quinet to Métro Charles-de-Gaulle/Étoile, to La
Défense.
11h00–17h00: La Défense: walking tour of the Voie des Sculptures, Jardins de l’Arche,
Bassin Agam. Lunch on your own (2 hour break). Ascent of the Grande Arche de la
Défense, to view the Axe Historique from its western terminus. Visit to La Défense
Espace Histoire.
19h00: Group farewell dinner, Brasserie Fernand, 127, bd du Montparnasse
(Montparnasse, 6e arr., Métro Vavin)
Saturday, March 17
Morning: Students depart
ENC 4956 (Spring 2007) • page 7 of 7