W650 Captain Jake

Transcription

W650 Captain Jake

Captain Jake's Big W650
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file:///M:/00w650/captain Jack/captain jack/1Captain Jake's Big W650.htm
Jake's Big Airbox Modification
Captain Jake, the Mel Bay of Motorcycle
Modification presents:
FREE YOUR AIRBOX!
What follows is documentation and photographs of
the airbox modification on a 2001 Kawasaki W650.
The intention is to clear away an obstruction in the
breathing path. This is also known as the "Firewall
Mod". Note: The work is only performed on the
right side airbox.
Use this information at your own risk. This
modification may violate your warranty. Most of this
is gathered from various sources from the WRiders
Group especially Jon Haddock, cheers Jon!
This information is provided in the simplest, clearest way I can, with lots of pictures, because that's the
way it works for me. If a picture isn't clear enough for you, click on it and you'll get a MUCH larger
picture with better resolution. I strongly recommend looking over this entire document before you
attempt this modification. There are things pictured here that I wish I knew about before I ran into them. I
have one request: If you use this information to modify your airbox, please email me and let me know if
this helped you.
When working on anything mechanical, I
keep a big box of powdered latex gloves
handy. At the end of the job you can just
throw them away, no hand-washing
necessary. Or in this case, I could take
them off, use my camera, then put a fresh
pair on. Or, as I was working I needed
bare fingers, so I took the gloves off, then
when I needed to take a picture, I could
put on one glove and use the camera
without getting it greasy. They're available
at many warehouse stores.
First step, remove the seat. On the left side
of the bike there is a keyhole, use your
ignition key here and the seat will click.
Lift from the back of the seat and slide it
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backwards slightly, it will lift right off. I
have a custom seat, so your seat may look
different but the keyhole is in the same
place. Place the seat somewhere safe
where you won't kick it. Don't place it on
concrete. That would pinch the seat
material between hard concrete and the
hard edge of the seatpan.
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Next you remove the sidecover. Go
around to the right side of the bike. There
are three screws that secure this to the
bike. The first two are on the side and are
indicated by the two red arrows. I
recommend using a large head screwdriver
to avoid damaging these screws.
The third screw is accessed in the
underseat area. It is the exactly same type
of dark screw you just removed and is
indicated here by the red arrow. Remove it
and the sidecover can be wiggled and slid
out. This part is largely cosmetic and can
be scratched easily in the workshop
environment so put it away somewhere
safe with its three screws. Keep the screws
with it or just chuck the screws under the
workbench right now, which is where
they'll end up if you don't put them
somewhere safe right away when you
remove them.
I'll be using the same picture a couple of
times, there are many things to do here.
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5
Unclip the wire connector at the top,
highlighted with the purple arrow, just
makes it easier if you move the wire that
goes to the left out of the way.
Warning, the part outlined in blue is the air
filter and is the reusable type so usually
contains filter oil. You are wearing
appropriate clothing, right?
The green arrows indicate a circular spring
that goes around the carburettor air horn.
Just roll it out of its groove towards the
back of the bike.
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The yellow number 1 indicates a small
tube underneath the airbox (the big grey
thing that occupies the majority of the
picture). You can't see the tube in this
picture. There is a small wire clip on the
tube. Squeeze the ends of the clip together
and pull it down the tube. You may be able
to remove the tube at this point.
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The yellow number 2 indicates a larger
tube. Squeeze the goldish clip and slide it
down the tube. You may be able to pull the
tube off at this point. If you can't, you
should be able to as you move the airbox
out of its place. There are detailed pictures
of the tubes below.
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Remove the three screws indicated by the
red arrows. The top one and bottom one
are identical and should have little round
washers with them. The middle screw is
sunken in and may require a longer
screwdriver. This is the very long screw.
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Next, remove the tiny silver bolt as
indicated by the red arrow, it's under the
seat area, just behind the gas tank. On
mine it was installed mind-buggeringly
tight. I wrecked a couple of tools getting it
to snap loose.
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Now you'll wiggle the airbox out. This
takes some doing. It probably won't pull
straight out, so try moving up, down, left
and right. It's rides on two long posts that
run across the bike from the right side of
the bike to the left. Don't wiggle too far,
you don't want to break the posts.
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Also watch at the top where there is a post
that the silver bolt screws into. It will snag
the wire bundle running across the top of
the area. The thumb in this photo shows
where the post sticks up behind the wire
bundle. You must also slide the rubber
tube at the front off of the carburettor air
horn.
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Then there are the two tubes that attach to
the front and the bottom of the airbox.
Here is the front hose. You can squeeze
the goldish clip with your fingers and slide
it towards the front of the bike, down the
hose. As you move the box towards you,
you'll be able to slide the hose off the front
of the box.
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This one is a little easier. This little drain
tube is on the bottom of the airbox and has
just a tiny wireclip holding it in place. You
can easily squeeze this little wireclip with
two fingers and slide it down the tube.
This tube should just slip down off the box
with a light pull.
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Having disconnected the tubes, cleared the
rubber cone off of the carburettor and
gently moved the top post under the wire
bundle, you can just pull the box straight
out. Be certain to pull it straight off, as it's
travelling along two long plastic posts,
visible in the next picture.
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This is what the bike will look like when
you've successfully removed the airbox.
The red arrows indicate the two posts
you're working along, and the yellow
arrows show the disconnected tubes.
On the front side of the airbox you will
find 5 screws, pointed out here by the red
arrows. Remove all of them and put them
in a safe place. Do not remove the screws
nor the big bolt that go UP into the bottom
of the airbox. That's for draining the
airbox. All of these screws are identical, so
don't worry about mixing them up. You
can also remove the air filter at this point
and put it somewhere safe away from your
work area, which will soon be covered in
plastic shavings.
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Turn the airbox over and remove all seven
of the screws from the backside, most of
them indicated by the red arrows. All of
these are identical except for two, which
are longer. They are marked in this
photograph with the green arrows. Note
that the airbox is upside down in this
photograph.
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Now you'll have to pry apart the front and
back halves of the airbox. Look for
someplace along the seam that is a little
loose. I found one and was able to work a
piece of scrap metal into the crack to
widen it, then work it along the seam.
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The two halves have a thin strip of rubber
between them to help seal them together,
indicated by the green arrow in this photo.
Don't rip it. This prying apart business can
be a pain, as it seems the box halves are
also lightly glued together. Keep at it, be
patient.
Set the back part aside, you'll be working
on the front part. This is the front half. The
big blue number 1 indicates the air filter.
The big blue number 2 indicates the
"foam-covered tube".
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The yellow arrows show the air flow to the
right carburettor. The air gets to the left
side carb through the holes in the back
half of this airbox, visible in photo 16.
Note the tiny little space it has to flow
through after coming out of the
foam-covered tube. The space is small and
requires the air to make a very sharp
U-turn. This is what we're going to correct.
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First, removed the foam covered tube.
Place it on your desk and put pencils in it,
for it will never again see the inside of
your airbox! The wall that we're going to
remove used to hold up the bottom of the
foam covered tube, indicated by green
arrows.
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Here's another look from a different angle.
The entire shelf that's outlined in green is
what we're going to remove.
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And here the operation begins. I used a
Dremel Multipro at 30,000 rpm and a
cutoff wheel. I made the initial cut across
the back side, holding the tool very tightly
to prevent it from running off into the right
wall.
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Next I turned it 90 degrees and cut from
the outside in. The cut from the open side
to the backside MUST be made carefully,
as you're cutting alongside a screw
receiver. If you cut into this, the screw that
goes in that hole may not grab well.
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The shelf has been cut away.
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The green arrow indicates the area that
you must be very careful cutting near. Do
not cut any closer than the green line to
this tube.
I cut away the majority of the ribbed back
wall, and the ridge that runs from top to
bottom. Using the flat of the cutoff wheel I
smoothed ridges on the back down the
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best I could, then rounded off the screw
receiver tube. A word of warning - a
Dremel Tool running at 30,000 rpm is a
very dangerous thing. It got slightly away
from me and cut a nice semicircular gash
in my thumb. Rubber gloves will not
protect from this type of assault. I was
going to post a picture that I took of this as
a warning, but it's not pretty. BE
CAREFUL.
Now the air path that was 1 inch wide is
about 4.5 inches.
Now take the top half and wash it out
VERY thoroughly. I used Simple Green to
wash it. You MUST remove all the plastic
dust that the cutting has created. If you
feel that this may not be that important,
consider feeding just a half teaspoon of
fine plastic shavings into your carbs. That
would be VERY nasty in the combustion
chambers. Clean it well. Then dry it well, I
recommend compressed air to ensure the
water is out of the crevices and screw
holes.
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Now you begin to reassemble the two
halves. Here is the rubber sealing strip that
goes between the two parts. Mine was
glued to the flat edge of the top half, while
the back half has a channel that runs
around the entire perimeter that the rubber
strip will drop into. Place the two parts
together and go all the way around the end
pushing the rubber strip into the channel
as the parts come together.
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Make one final check to ensure the rubber
seal is in place all the way around, and
push the parts together. Replace all of the
screws. Don't forget the two longer screws.
They go in the two holes that are visible in
the middle of this photograph. Tighten all
the screws pretty well, but not so tight that
you strip out their holes, the receivers are
only plastic and seem to strip easily.
Push the airbox back into place in the
bike, being very careful to get the long
plastic rods into the holes in the back of
the airbox. Take your time, this is
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important. As you wiggle the airbox back
into place, you'll have to mush the rubber
cone to get it around the air horn of the
carburettor. I started mine with one finger.
When you're putting the airbox back, you
may hit several points of resistance. That
means it's hitting something solid. It will
not help to push harder, locate the source
of resistance and move it out of the way,
or maneuver the airbox around it. One
noted tough part is the post on top of the
airbox.
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Then placing a finger on each side and
pushing back towards the airbox with your
fingers, use your palm to push the airbox
into the frame of the bike. This should get
the rubber cone mostly onto the air horn.
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Here's a problem I ran into on reassembly.
I found that it hangs up on the left side,
where you can't get your fingers to pull it
over the horn. I found that you can insert a
screwdriver where the green arrow is and
push the rubber cone over so it slips over
the far side of the air horn.
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Once you've checked to be sure the rubber
cone is properly seated around the air
horn, work the circular spring back into its
groove near the carb, then push the
chrome ring back against the airbox.
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Reattach the drain tube at the bottom of
the airbox, then squeeze the little wireclip
and scoot it up so it holds the tube on the
bottom of the airbox.
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Move to the front of the airbox and
reattach this hose. This can take a little
wiggling, as this one's a little firmer. I
found it necessary to pull the airbox
towards me a little bit to get the right angle
to get the tube back on. Squeeze the
goldish clip with your fingers and slide it
back towards the airbox to secure the
hose.
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Replace these three screws indicated by
the red arrows. The top and bottom ones
will have flat washers, and the middle
screw is a very long one.
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Replace the small silver bolt on top,
tightening it down firmly. This goes into a
metal receiver on top of the airbox post.
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Reconnect this small wire bundle. Failure
to do so may result in your motorcycle
exploding when it reaches 88 mph. Or
maybe not, but it looks important, so snap
it back together anyways.
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Gently put the sidecover in place, working
it over the two wire bundles at the top.
Replace the chrome screw and washer on
the left side, then the dark screw and
washer at the bottom.
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You should have one big dark screw left
over. Put it here and tighten it down. This
is under the seat, behind the gas tank.
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Retrieve your seat from its safe storage
place. Note that it has a tongue at the front
part. Angling the front of the seat down,
slide the tongue into this hole and gently
push down on the rear of the seat. You will
hear a soft click when it's back in place.
Attempt to lift the back of the seat, then
the front to be certain it's on securely.
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Your bike should now be back together.
Go for a ride. Enjoy the additional power.
You may find that this modification leads
to the installation of shims under the
needles....
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W650 Captain Jake

Transcription

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