Abstracts of the article

Abstracts of the article
“Milan breaks out bold, bright looks”
Written by Christina Binkley
On Wall Street Journal, September 29th 2010
“The runways of Milan were awash in brilliant colors, bold, clashing patterns”
“This fashion capital for years has been the plainer, more practical stepsister to Paris.
But the styles shown here in the past week showed so much daring spirit that it’s hard
to imagine what Paris will do to follow”. (...)
“The week of shows, which ended Monday and featured Gucci, Prada, Bottega Veneta,
Giorgio Armani, and Dolce & Gabbana, received applause from American retailers”
(…)
”This was an important moment for the Italian fashion industry. (…) The Italian
fashion chamber, the Camera della Moda, slowed down the pace of the Milan shows in
a largely successful attempt to make them more accessible to visitors”.
Abstracts of the article
“Cavalli and Armani go their own ways during Milan Fashion Week”
Written by Daniela Petroff
On China Post, September 29th 2010
“Italian designers seemed to have taken time out this season ç
from their trademark black sexy look”
“‘Me Cavalli, she Jane’” the designer seemed to be saying as model after model walked
through the runway’s make-believe jungle in skin tight gowns and trousers to the
thumping beat of the show’s soundtrack. Many of the outfits were barebacked, but the
real sex appeal came in the intricate workmanship. Almost every outfit dripped with
fringes and was tied together with subtle lacing. But if at times the fringes served as
chastity curtains, the lacing did little to cover the body. Instead, it was used for a peeka-boo effect on open seams and bare midriffs. (…)
“After six days of glaring color — Armani himself featured watermelon red in his
Emporio collection — it was a real surprise to see a show where the brightest shade
was midnight blue. The designer drew inspiration for the collection from the Tuareg,
also known as the blue nomads of the desert for the dark face covers worn by the men”.
(…)
Abstracts of the article
“Roberto Cavalli, Leopard King”
On International Herald Tribune, September 28th 2010
“An audience of fans and lovers of Italian bravura walked through Milan’s white Arch of Peace and
into a transparent tent with a backdrop of sculpted palm trees”
“Why were so many spectators at Monday’s fashion show wearing animal prints? The
patterns were in honor of the self-styled ‘Leopard King’0 — Roberto Cavalli — who
celebrated 40 years in fashion with a collection of impeccable craftsmanship”.
“‘An ode to Florence’, said the designer, referring to the artistic roots from which his
sophisticated blend of animal skins and nature prints flowered”. (…)
“Mr. Cavalli remembers how — after his childhood in Florence, where he was the heir
to an artist and painter grandfather, and a stint at the city’s school of fine arts — he
started working on printing techniques. A black and white dog pattern for Krizia is still
in his head”.
“But the breakthrough came when he realized that leather could be treated like silk,
with the same possibilities of print and pattern. Working with the Italian designer Mario
Valentino and with the silk printers around Lake Como, ‘Stampa Cavalli’ his personal
printing base, revolutionized the industry”. (…)
Abstracts of the article
“La ‘donna’ sur tous les tons”
Written by Virginie Mouzat
On Le Figaro, September 28th 2010
“Solaire chez Dolce & Gabbana, BCBG chez Salvatore Ferragamo, sexy chez Roberto
Cavalli, mystérieuse chez Giorgio Armani… Ce sont toutes les femmes qui défilent à Milan.”
“Méditerranée, la chaleur austère du Sud, les années 1950… Toute la grammaire
maison se retrouve sur le podium, principalement en blanc, comme la chaux des
maisons. Du coup la collection, sans surprise mais lumineuse, décline la robe stricte,
mais également les détails de lingerie, la guipure, les broderies, le crochet, bref, tout ce
qui compose un vestiaire charmeur, rétro, féminin. Les filles sont ravissantes, croix en
pendentif et créoles or aux oreilles, perchées sur des mules à plateau de bois (assez
cagoles en cuir blanc et strass)”. (...)
“Chez Salvatore Ferragamo, la deuxième saison de Massimiliano Giornetti livre un été
« morbido » comme disent les Italiens, doux et suave. Tellement bon ton qu’on aimerait
un peu de nerf (avec des escarpins, par exemple, ou est-ce mal vu ?) dans ce bon genre
qui ne dérangera ni la famille Ferragamo, ni les clientes conservatrices, ni l’impeccable
blondeur de Claudia Schiffer, au premier rang, venue tout exprès assister au show. Mais
les nouvelles clientes, elles ? Après le crêpe ivoire et le beige majeur de l’hiver (et tous
leurs dérivés), que trouveront-elles, dans le Ferragamo de l’été 2011, aussi élégant soitil, qui n’ait pas déjà été dit ? Les sandales de carmélites, à talon carré de 3 cm,
paraissent confortables, mais c’est justement le problème”. (...)
“Belle, très belle, cette collection Giorgio Armani qui décline le marine et le noir à
l’infini. Inspiré du bleu des Touaregs, l’ensemble a pourtant tout d’un dressing urbain et
luxueux. Le pantalon finissime en mousseline marine soutient des jupes courtes et des
vestes à la carrure parfaite flottant sur les reins. Les effets de revers, le mat et les
brillances, les ballerines en soie noire pour les robes du soir contribuent à délivrer le
message d’une élégance moderne. Le soir, robes, jupes longues et gilets dos nu rutilent
de cristaux saphir mystérieux donnant à la nuit du Sahara Armani une richesse
profonde”.