Page references in italics indicate illustrations. Académie Colarossi
Transcription
Page references in italics indicate illustrations. Académie Colarossi
From Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism, by Mary E. David (University of California Press, 2006) Index Page references in italics indicate illustrations. Académie Colarossi (Paris), 94–95 Académie Julian (Paris), 71 Académie Royale de Musique, 282n64 Acocella, Joan, 52 Action, 268n56 Adam, Paul, 135–36 Adieu, New York! (Auric), 215–16 Adorno, Theodor, 284n118 advertising, expansion of, 8 “The Aesthetic Upheaval in France” (E. Wilson, Jr.), 149, 269n62 Agri Cultura (Cato), 111, 112, 113 L’Aiglon (Rostand), 258n11 Aladin perfume, 36, 37 “Alexander’s Ragtime Band” (Berlin), 124, 145 Alex’s Castle (E. Wilson, Jr.), 149 Alice in Wonderland (Carroll), 114–15 “A L’Oasis” (Marty), 219 Alvin, Jeanne, 268n59 Amédée (Paris), 102 American Committee for Devastated France, 206, 280n14 American Monthly Review of Reviews, 213 American music, 141–45, 148, 149 “American Painters of Women,” 208 American press, 129–33. See also specific publications “Am I Early” (Lepape), 54, 55 ancien régime style, 219 androgyny, 163 The Angora Ox (Satie), 106 Ansermet, Ernest, 170, 191 Antheil, George: Ballet mécanique, 117 Antigone (Sophocles), 194 Antigone adaptation (Chanel, Cocteau, Honegger, and Picasso), 194–97, 196 “Les Apaches,” 114 Apollinaire, Guillaume, 95, 104, 128, 147, 279n1 Après le subisme (Ozenfant and Jeanneret), 105 1 From Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism, by Mary E. David (University of California Press, 2006) 2 L’Aquarelle-Mode, 10 The Arabian Nights, 34 Aristotle, 112 Arlequinade perfume, 37 Armide (ballet), 52 Arnoux, Guy, 44 art and fashion, 22–23, 34–35, 49, 51, 54–56, 62, 101, 252 Art Deco, 57, 254 L’Art d’Être Jolie, 258n43 Art et Décoration: on Poiret, 34; Steichen’s photographs for, 73, 73, 75, 262n34; Lucien Vogel as editor-in-chief of, 49 L’Art Musical, 14 Art Nouveau movement, 260n48 “The Art of Dress” (Cornu), 34 art of the sophisticated commonplace, 197 Astruc, Gabriel, 17–18, 94 Astruc, Marcel, 50–51 Astruc, Yvonne, 115–16 Le Astuzie feminili (Cimarosa), 187 Atanasiou, Genica, 195, 196 Atelier Martine, 34–35, 36 Aubert, 92; “La Vie champêtre,” 263n49 “Au clair de la lune,” 87 Auric, Georges, 95, 100, 268n58; Adieu, New York! 215–16; at the Bal des Jeux, 229; critical reception of, 211; Les Fachêux, 197, 254; Les Mariées de la Tour Eiffel, 197, 246; ParisSport, 218. See also Les Six Avant-dernières pensées (Satie), 95–96, 108, 110, 113 avant-garde, 96, 97. See also Satie, Erik Bacchic rituals, 42 Bach, Johann Sebastian, 274n100; “Herr Gott, dich loben alle wir,” 69, 71 “Le Bain de mer” (C. Martin), 77–78, 80, 80–81 Bakst, Léon: Ballets Russes–inspired fashion collection of, 22; Caryathis poster by, 217, 217; colors used by, 31; “Philomèle,” 60–61, 62; Sleeping Princess costumes by, 239, 248–49 Balanchine, George, 174 Bal Baroque, 230–34, 231, 234, 239 Balboa, Vasco Núñez de, 134 Le Balcon perfume, 36–37 From Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism, by Mary E. David (University of California Press, 2006) 3 Bal des Jeux, 227–29, 228–29, 230 Baliyev, Nicholai, 240, 242 Ballet mécanique (Antheil), 117 ballets at court, 42 Ballets Russes: American tour of, 171–72, 174, 210, 272n59; Armide, 52; audience for, 16–17, 52, 128–29, 235; Les Biches, 154, 197, 278n175; La Boutique fantasque, 180, 274n99; Carnaval, 52; and Chanel, 168, 179 (see also Le Train bleu); Chout, 225; Cléopâtre, 33, 52; and Cocteau, 94; Le Coq d’or, 54; criticism of, 19; Cuadro flamenco, 225–26; Daphnis et Chloé, 52; decline during WWI, 168; Diaghilev as impresario of, 15–16, 33; Le Dieu bleu, 52; elitism of, 119; Les Fachêux, 197; finances of, 171, 235, 249, 272n59; The Firebird, 171; La Gazette du Bon Ton on, 52–57, 55–56; Jeux, 53; L’Aprèsmidi d’un faune, 52; Le Mariage de la Belle au Bois dormant, 234–35; Midas, 54; Midnight Sun, 117–18; in Monaco, 249; in Monte Carlo, 249–50, 252, 254; Narcisse, 52; Les Noces, 171, 179, 180–81, 250–52, 253, 278n175; Les Orientales, 33; Petrouchka, 117–18, 171, 175; Petroushka, 52; popularity of, 15, 22, 52, 225; press coverage of/publicity for, 15–19, 18–19, 21; programs for, 17–18, 18; Pulcinella, 174–78, 238, 246; retrospective classicism of, 238; Russian season of 1922, 235, 236–37, 240–43; Salomé, 18, 53; Schéhérazade, 33, 46, 52; The Sleeping Princess, 235, 238–40, 248–49, 252; The Song of the Nightingale, 174; Les Sylphides, 117–18; at the Théâtre GaîtéLyrique, 224–26; Le Train bleu, 178n174, 197–201, 198–99; Vanity Fair on, 171–72; Vogue on, 224–26, 235, 237. See also Mavra; Parade; Le Renard; The Rite of Spring Balsan, Etienne, 155–56 “Les Bals des 4 Bendredis de Mai,” 223–24, 282n62 Balzac, Honoré de, 256n20, 270n16; “Treatise on the Elegant Life,” 9, 256n23 Barbier, Georges, 54–55 bar-dancings, 218, 281n48 Bar Gaya (Paris), 282n53 Bartók, Béla, 181 “Battick” (design by Poiret, photograph by Steichen), 73, 75, 262n34 Baudelaire, Charles, 9 The Bear at the Moulin Rouge (Severini), 124, 125 Beaton, Cecil, 48, 52, 133 Beau Brummels of the Brush, 55, 57, 71, 85. See also Barbier, Georges; Brissaud, Pierre; Martin, Charles; Marty, André; Monvel, Bernard Boutet de Beaumont, Edith, Countess de, 226, 227, 228–29, 232, 282n73. See also Beaumont Balls Beaumont, Etienne, Count de, 94, 95, 220, 226, 228–29, 232, 278n169, 279n1; Trois pages dansées, 202–3, 204, 279n2. See also Beaumont Balls Beaumont Balls, 226–34, 228–29 Beaux, Ernest, 164 Beer, 135 From Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism, by Mary E. David (University of California Press, 2006) 4 Beethoven, Ludwig van, 14, 39; “Twelve Variations on a Russian Dance from Wranitsky’s Das Waldmädchen,” 187 Bel Ami, 156 Bell, Clive, 133 La Belle Assemblée, 7, 8–9 Belle Epoque gowns, 208–9 La Belle excentrique (Caryathis and Satie), 216–18, 217 Belline, Ira (Irina Belyakin), 241 Bel Respiro (Garches), 170, 179 Benchley, Robert, 133 Benito, Eduardo, 1, 2, 205, 220, 279n7 Benois, 239 Bentley, Alys E., 143 Bérain, Jean, 4, 256n11 Bergson, Henri, 102 Berlin, Irving: “Alexander’s Ragtime Band,” 124, 145; “That Mysterious Rag,” 124–27, 126–27 Bernays, Edward, 172, 272n61 Bernhardt, Sarah, 24, 37, 258n11 Biarritz (Basque coast), 160–61 Les Biches (Laurencin, Nijinska, and Poulenc), 154, 197, 278n175 Bidou, Henri, 49–50, 260n9 Bizet, George: “L’Escarpolette,” 88, 89; Jeux d’enfants, 87–89, 88, 187; Petite suite d’orchestre, 87–88; “Quatre coins,” 90, 91 Bizet, René, 1, 163 Black and White Ball, 224, 282n62 “The Blacksmith and His Son,” 189–90 blague, 265n35 Blanc, François, 285n132 Blanche, Jacques-Emile: Portrait of Les Six, 98, 100 Blum, Lise-Léon, 51–52, 53–54, 261n14 Blum, René, 51–52 Blume, Mary, 249 bobbed hairstyle, 163, 271n33 Boccherini, Luigi, 39 Le Boeuf sur le toit (ballet; Cocteau and Milhaud), 190, 197, 211, 215–16, 220, 221 Le Boeuf sur le toit (nightclub, Paris), 220–23, 222, 282n53 Bois de Boulogne, 65, 67, 139, 226 Boismortier, Jacques Bodin de: Diane et Actéon, 42 Bois sacré, 37