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Back from the future
RETOUR AUX SOURCES. Longtemps figure de proue de la cuisine moléculaire et grand concurrent de Ferran Adrià au titre
de meilleur cuisinier du monde, le chef britannique Heston Blumenthal vient d’ouvrir à Londres un second restaurant, le Dinner. Son nouveau pari est original : remettre au goût du jour d’anciennes recettes tombées dans l’oubli. Se verra-t-il à
nouveau couronné de trois étoiles au Michelin, comme ce fut le cas en 2004 avec le Fat Duck ?
NEWSWEEK
BY WILLIAM UNDERHILL
Back from the future
Retour au passé
(par anal. au titre du film de Robert Zemeckis
Back to the Future Retour vers le futur, 1985)
super-skilled expert, grand nom, ponte (skilled
qualifié) / breed race, espèce / champion défenseur, avocat / diner convive, client / snail escargot / to flavor (US)= flavour (GB) parfumer,
aromatiser / poll sondage / fellow collègue,
confrère.
2. to locate (se) situer / Thames Tamise / wouldbe aspirant, candidat / patron client / global
mondial, international / brand marque / appeal
force de séduction, attrait, mass appeal grande
popularité / cooking cuisine / cookbook livre de
cuisine / routinely régulièrement / to retail se
vendre / to sell, sold, sold out se vendre en totalité, être épuisé.
3. résumé curriculum vitae / blank (page)
blanc(he), vide / notable remarquable / formal
traditionnel, classique / training formation / to
slave travailler comme un esclave, trimer / to
perfect perfectionner, parfaire / debt collector
agent de recouvrement / salesman vendeur /
aside from à part / trainee stagiaire, apprenti.
4. bet pari / to launch lancer, inaugurer / to feature comporter, offrir / matchless sans égal,
incomparable /
i
The Dinner kitchen (DR)
12 • VOCABLE Du 28 avril au 11 mai 2011
mong the super-skilled of haute cuisine,
Heston Blumenthal is a rare breed. One
of the first champions of science-based
gastronomy, he astonished—and charmed—
diners with concoctions such as snail porridge
and egg-and-bacon-flavored ice cream, and became one of youngest chefs to win three
Michelin stars. The Fat Duck, his first restaurant, which he opened when he was 29, was
named best restaurant in the world in 2005
by Restaurant Magazine after an international
poll of fellow chefs and critics.
2. Located in the village of Bray beside the
Thames, the restaurant gets more than
20,000 calls daily from would-be patrons, and
Blumenthal has turned difficult food into
a global brand with mass appeal. Millions
watch his cooking shows, and his cookbooks
routinely figure high in the bestseller lists.
A
Last year a Christmas pudding he created retailed on eBay for $1,500 after selling out in
stores.
3. Yet the chef’s early résumé is a curious
blank, a notable absence of cooking schools
and formal training. While future rivals
slaved to perfect their soufflés, the young
Blumenthal worked as a debt collector, a photocopier salesman, and a credit controller
for his father’s business. His first paid job as
a chef, aside from a single week as a teenage
trainee, came when he opened the Fat Duck.
A new bet
4. Now, at 44, he’s launching his first
London restaurant. Situated in the five-star
Mandarin Oriental hotel and featuring
matchless views of Hyde Park, Dinner is a
$10 million restaurant where Blumenthal
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Hay smoked mackerel, lemon salad, gentleman\'s relish, olive oil (DR)
CULTURE
Salamugundy. (DR)
Taffety Tart, Fennel, lemon and Rose (DR)
i
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Heston Blumenthal (l) and
Ashley Palmer Watts (r). (EDDIE JUDD)
i
Meat fruit by Ashley Palmer Watts (DR)
i
treat régal, délice, mets raffiné / rice and flesh
recette à base de riz, bouillon de boeuf, lait
d’amande et safran / circa aux environs de, vers
(époque) / loaf pain.
cooks food not from the future but from
Britain’s distant past. He is creating interpretations of such long-forgotten treats as
rice and flesh (circa 1390), orange buttered
loaf (1630), and ragout of pigs’ ears (1750).
5. So far, the press has been lavish with superlatives. “A historic culinary wonderland,”
The Guardian called it; “Bloody lovely,” The
Observer enthused. As at Bray, critics see
qualities in the cooking that go far beyond
experimentation for its own sake. And there’s
no keeping diners away. The next free table
is in midsummer.
6. Not bad for someone without a dash of
formal instruction who grew up in a country then famously indifferent to the charms
of fine dining. “My mum was a good cook.
But I didn’t know what an oyster was like
when I was in my teens,” Blumenthal tells
NEWSWEEK. “There was only one type of
pasta in the supermarket—that was
spaghetti—and you had to go to the [drugstore] for olive oil: it was poured into your
ear as a medical aid.”
How it clicked
7. His own moment of revelation came
while on holiday in France with his parents
and the chance decision to try out a smart
eatery in Provence. Every detail remains clear
in his memory, from the sommelier’s handlebar mustache and leather apron to the
crunch of the waiters’ footfalls on the gravel,
and his own selection, red mullet with a
sauce vierge. The 16-year-old Blumenthal was
entranced. “It was like falling down a hole
into Wonderland.” In the years that followed,
he devoured the works on classic French cuisine while working a range of jobs to sustain
his habit and fund an annual culinary pilgrimage.
8. Just as important, he found inspiration
in the work of American academic Harold
McGee’s On food and cooking: The science
and lore of the kitchen. Without the inhibitions of formal training, Blumenthal felt
free to challenge the orthodoxies. “I just didn’t know the constraints,” he says. “Naiveté
is a fantastic thing.”
5. so far jusqu’à présent / to be lavish with superlatives ne pas tarir d’éloges, ne pas lésiner sur
les superlatifs / wonderland pays des merveilles
/ bloody sacrément / to enthuse s’enthousiasmer / far beyond bien au-delà de / for its own
sake juste pour le plaisir / and there... away et ça
ne fait pas fuir les clients.
6. dash soupçon, pointe, without a dash of sans
le/la moindre / fine dining gastronomie / oyster
huître / in one’s teens adolescent / to pour verser.
7. to click faire tilt / chance de hasard, fortuit /
smart raffiné, chic / eatery restaurant / handlebar mustache (US)= moustache (GB) moustache
en guidon de vélo / leather (de, en) cuir / apron
tablier / crunch crissement / waiter serveur /
footfall pas / gravel gravier / red mullet rouget
/ entranced enchanté, ravi, transporté / hole
trou / range éventail, variété / to sustain nourrir,
entretenir, financer / habit habitude, ici passion
/ to fund financer / pilgrimage pèlerinage.
8. academic universitaire / lore tradition(s) / to
challenge (re)mettre en question, contester /
orthodoxy conformisme, tradition.
h
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Fame
APPRENTISSAGE
DES LANGUES
9. By 1995, Blumenthal was ready to put
the precepts into practice, acquiring the Fat
Duck, a 450-year-old pub in a quaint village
within easy driving distance of London. By
his own estimation, he averaged 120-hour
workweeks during the early days. But it didn’t take long for the accolades to arrive. The
restaurant’s first Michelin star in 1998 was
followed by a second and third over the next
six years.
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The Guardian called it
“a historic culinary
wonderland”.
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10. The well-known perfectionism comes at
a price. With wine, the tasting menu costs
$255, not including service. But then the ratio of chefs at the Fat Duck is the highest
in the country, with 50 chefs cooking for a
maximum of 42 diners. And although it
makes no economic sense, Blumenthal wants
to up the ratio by reducing the number of
diners. “It just gives us that much more
space,” he says by way of explanation.
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11. Although few viewers of his TV shows
have the skill or kitchenware to create such
signature dishes as salmon poached in
licorice gel or popcorn ice cream, Blumenthal is immensely popular, perhaps because
his charm is much more down-to-earth than
his cooking. Granted, his looks help, too.
With his close-shaven head, space-age spectacles, and a chef’s jacket pulled tight over
a barrel chest, he appears a bruiser-scientist
with a hint of geek as he wields the blowtorch and liquid nitrogen for his culinary
creations.
12. Although his own scientific credentials
are limited (he failed chemistry at school),
he maintains a passion for innovation. At
any time, his research teams at three development kitchens in Bray are working on 600
new dishes. It’s this Willy Wonka approach
to cooking that has come to define Blumenthal, and he’s not sorry. “I love the
wacky-scientist bit and any reference to
Wonka because I am really just a big kid.” ●
The Fat Duck
The restaurant was opened in 1995 and
is one of only four in the United Kingdom and Ireland that hold a three-star
Michelin Guide rating; this has been the
case since 2004. In 2005, it was named
as the best restaurant in the world by
Restaurant magazine and Best Restaurant in the UK in 2008, 2009 and 2010
scoring a maximum 10 out of 10 in the
Good Food Guide.
9. fame célébrité, gloire / quaint au charme suranné, pittoresque / within... London à un court
trajet en voiture de Londres / to average ici travailler en moyenne / accolades marques de reconnaissance, honneurs.
10. tasting menu menu dégustation / ratio proportion, rapport / to make, made, made sense
être sensé, logique, se justifier / to up augmenter.
11. the golden ticket ticket d’or (billet gagnant),
réf. au roman de Roald Dahl Charlie et la chocolaterie / viewer téléspectateur / skill compétence,
talent, technique / kitchenware ustensiles de
cuisine / signature emblématique, fameux / salmon saumon / to poach pocher / licorice (US)=
liquorice (GB) réglisse / down-to-earth réaliste,
terre à terre, simple / granted c’est vrai / close
shaven rasé de près / space-age de l’époque de
la conquête de l’espace, ici ultramoderne, sophistiqué, futuriste / spectacles lunettes / pulled tight
très serré / barrel chest torse bombé, pectoraux
/ bruiser malabar / hint touche, pointe, soupçon / geek accro des nouvelles technologies /
to wield manier / blowtorch chalumeau.
12. credentials références, expérience / to fail
échouer à / Willy Wonka réf. au personnage
excentrique de Charlie et la Chocolaterie / wacky
cinglé, loufoque, farfelu / bit ici côté, aspect.
Heston Blumenthal est un de nos
chefs préférés en Angleterre. Sa
cuisine innovante est basée sur la
science. Ses recettes sont souvent
compliquées mais en valent la
chandelle, et si on est trop paresseux pour les
réaliser, on peut toujours se rendre dans un de
ses deux superbes restaurants : The Fat Duck ou
The Dinner. C’est un régal !