Show-stopping pearl jewellery

Show-stopping
pearl jewellery
‘Via Rosa’ earrings
by Jewelmer
T
Tension-set
pearl rings
by Gellner
he elegant and quiet beauty of the pearl is celebrated in the latest
creations of some of the world’s leading pearl jewellery houses.
Philippine-based Jewelmer unveiled its Spring and Summer 2013
collections in a gala event in Manila. Its La Dolce Rosa, Tropics,
Vitta, Pelagria and Via Rosa drew inspiration from a rose’s
silhouette, the tropical rainforest and the
perpetual motion of a ribbon.
Another pearl jewellery specialist,
Gellner of Germany, showcased
eye-catching creations including
rings designed by Monika
Seitter, which come with
colourful and transparent
double bands set with pearls and
coloured gemstones. Gellner’s
signature tension-set pearl
rings are also expected
to make a strong
impression in the
coming months.
Paspaley, the world’s top
producer of South Sea pearls,
presented three exceptional pieces:
the ‘Odyssey’ bangle is Paspaley’s modern
interpretation of the sea fan coral; the ‘Vivienne’
strand, a tribute to the wife of the brand’s founder,
Nicholas Paspaley Senior, MBE, features 26 perfectly
graduated round Australian South Sea pearls of astonishing
lustre; and the ‘Embrace the Sea’ collier which has 2,830 micro-pavé set
diamonds and five opals with Australian South Sea pearls.
Amrapali also presented opulent multi-strand seed
pearl necklaces joined by a gold clasp set
with diamonds. The collection includes
a collier consisting of rows upon rows
of seed pearl strands interspaced with
sections of ruby and emerald beads, and a
multi-row pearl necklace with diamonds
and rubies. JNA
Multi-strand seed pearl necklace with
a gold and diamond clasp by Amrapali
Pearl Report
JEWELLERY NEWS ASIA
15
China is hotbed of growth for
The island of Tahiti in
French Polynesia is
home to one of nature’s
most-prized gems, the
Tahitian pearl
Tahitian pearls
By Christie Dang
here is no better way to appreciate the
beauty of Tahitian pearls than embarking
on an immersive journey into its source country,
the French Polynesia. Last November, Maison
de la Perle – Tahiti and the Tahitian Pearl
Association of Hong Kong (TPAHK) hosted a
week-long educational trip to Tahiti for Hong
Kong and China-based pearl wholesalers and
retailers. The delegation visited the Maison de
la Perle headquarters and the Robert Wan Pearl
Museum in Tahiti’s capital city of Papeete, as well
as the Love Here Pearl Farm on Taha’a Island.
Visitors saw first-hand how Tahitian pearls
are farmed, sorted and inspected before they
are sent to trading centres and jewellery shops.
The delegation was also treated to a special
preview of the goods for auction at the inaugural
Tahitian pearl auction co-organised by the GIE
Tahiti Pearl Auction and Maison de la Perle.
The group met with Temauri Foster, minister of
Marine Resources of French Polynesia, as well as
with several Tahiti-based pearl retailers.
Opportunities in Greater China
The educational trip aimed to promote
Tahitian pearls in Greater China, according
to Hinano Teanotoga, managing director of
Maison de la Perle. China is an important market
for Tahitian pearls, she emphasised, saying that
the increasing purchasing power of Chinese
consumers is driving the demand for new and
high-quality gemstones such as Tahitian pearls.
Industry members play a significant role in
sustaining the market’s long-term development,
Teanotoga noted. A series of marketing
campaigns to further develop the Tahitian pearl
market in China and the rest of Asia will
be launched this year, she added. Since its
establishment in 2009, Maison de la Perle
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JEWELLERY NEWS ASIA
Pearl Report
has assisted pearl farmers, wholesalers and
retailers in the production and trade of Tahitian
pearls. Its current focus is to further promote
Tahitian pearls in Greater China through various
platforms for both traders and consumers.
Emphasis on quality
Maison de la Perle introduced the delegation
to its team of 12 technicians who are involved in
pearl inspection and sorting. The team ensures
that the nacre thickness of each pearl is at least
0.8mm. They also monitor the health of each
pearl oyster, which should have a minimum of
18 months before it is harvested, a procedure
that complies with the standard implemented by
the Tahitian government since 2002.
Vaihere Mooria, head of Maison de la
Perle’s quality control department, said pearl
farmers inspect the goods before they are sent
to the quality control department for further
processing. The team can handle 30,000 to
50,000 pearls in a regular eight-hour day, five
days a week. They can process up to 80,000
pearls prior to auctions in the peak season,
Mooria added.
Maison de la Perle’s inspection and sorting team can
process up to 80,000 pearls prior to pearl auctions in the
peak season
Photo credit: Christie Dang
T
Demand for quality Tahitian pearls grows
R
obert Wan Tahiti is stepping up production
of gem-quality Tahitian pearls.
“For a number of years now, we have
been reducing pearl production and focusing on
top-end goods. This is how we have built our
leadership in the marketplace,” said company
founder and owner Robert Wan. The company
posted a 30 percent growth in 2012 mainly due
to rising prices of top-quality goods.
Tahitian pearls’ rich variation in colours
makes them highly desirable, said Wan. “Of
course, each market has its own preferences in
terms of pearl colour, size, shape and surface, but
no one could resist a Tahitian pearl with lovely
exotic colours and high lustre.”
China has become an important market for
the company as it continues to look for growth
opportunities outside the traditional markets of
Europe and the US. In 2011, Wan opened his
flagship boutique in Shanghai.
“We are doing very well in China, and I believe
it is because people know our brand and what we
stand for,” he said. “The funny thing is, when
the Chinese travel to Tahiti, they would
go straight to Robert Wan Tahiti
boutiques and purchase
Tahitian pearls. They
love our pearls,
and this is one
of the reasons
why I am very
optimistic about
our
growth
prospects on
the mainland.”
Although
upbeat
about
the Chinese market,
Wan pointed out that
China is not an easy
market to navigate. “It is
challenging but it can be done,”
Wan noted. “We are investing
a lot in our branding and consumer
education campaigns.”
Wan said innovation and a deep
understanding of the target market are
keys to any successful business. “We cannot
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JEWELLERY NEWS ASIA
Pearl Report
Robert Wan (second from right), founder and owner of
Robert Wan Tahiti, with his team at the 2012 JNA Awards
ceremony and gala dinner in Hong Kong
be complacent. We have to work harder, and seek
new ways to innovate and improve our operations
at all times. Product innovation and creativity are
critical to our competitiveness, but so is process
innovation,” he explained.
Wan is a true pioneer in the cultured
pearl business. He literally got his
entrepreneurial feet wet four
decades ago when he invested
in a pearl farm in the French
Polynesia. Today, he
operates several island
pearl farms from the
Tuamotu Archipelago
to the Gambier
Islands.
Eighty
percent of his pearls
are produced in the
Marutea Atoll.
The year 2013 is a
particularly
challenging
time for the industry, but
the company is optimistic about
its prospects, Wan said. “We will
continue our Asian expansion even
though the global economic situation
is not that favourable,” Wan explained.
“We will keep on doing what we have been
doing in the last 40 years, which is to market
Tahiti’s gifts to the world.” JNA
Tahitian pearl pendant by
Guangzhou Qifu Pearl
Processing Co Ltd of China
廣州市祺福珍珠的大溪地
珍珠鑲鑽吊墜
Ring with baroque pearl centre
stone in 18-karat gold by Adeler
Jewelers of the US
美國Adeler Jewelers的18K金
鑲鑽南洋珍珠戒指
Playful pearls
珠光寶氣 O
ne of nature’s most splendid gifts takes many forms in this
dazzling pearl jewellery collection that echoes grace, elegance
and timeless beauty. From classic strands to playful pendants,
these creative designs from some of the world’s top jewellery makers are
surefire ways to attract attention. JNA
自天然的瑰寶轉化為耀目的珍珠首飾，將典雅、瑰麗及永恆的純美進
來
一步昇華。從經典的珍珠項鏈到玩味時尚的設計，來自世界各地的珠
寶製造商以獨特的飾品設計，成功吸引市場的目光。
Bangle with South
Sea pearls by Hodel of
Switzerland
瑞士著名珍珠品牌Hodel
的南洋珠手鐲
Tahitian pearl earrings, pendant and ring by
Gyso Pearls & Jewellery Ltd of Hong Kong
天星珍珠首飾有限公司出品的大溪地珍珠飾品
62
亞洲珠寶
珍 珠 特刊