White is the new Black

NEWS /
2015 opens with
February 2015 n°17
Feedback from Perfumers
ISO 26000 CSR Award
Trend
White is
the new Black
TechnicoFlor News
Trade Fairs and
2016 Trend Notebook
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February 2015 n°17
TechnicoFlor has been evaluated for ISO 26000 and was awarded
3 stars in recognition of our Corporate Social Responsibility
strategy. A matter of immense pride for us all.
This rewards the joint effort of TechnicoFlor staff, creating fine fragrances in a spirit
of respect for human values and environmental protection. This is the first step in
an ethical approach bringing the finest perfumes to the consumer and ensuring
that non-toxic and environmentally friendly fragrances are affordable by all. More
important still, is our deeply-held conviction that we—consumers, clients, suppliers
and trading partners alike—need to engage in united effort to respond to major,
upcoming environmental and social challenges.
Let’s work together now for future generations.
My very best wishes to all for a happy and successful 2015.
François-Patrick SABATER, CEO TechnicoFlor
NEWS /
2015 opens with ISO 26000 CSR Award
TechnicoFlor was assessed at year-end 2014 by Société Générale de Surveillance (SGS), to test our compliance to the exacting
requirements of the ISO 26000 CSR reference framework. At this intermediate stage of the work to make Corporate Social
Responsibility an integral part of our ethic, we were awarded three out of a possible five merit stars. As a compounder of
fragrances we are a benchmark for others in the industry. Our pioneering approach and continuing effort over 10 years has
culminated in this ISO 26000 award. We will now work even harder to reduce environmental impact and produce perfumes
meeting ever more stringent standards of health and safety.
Our CSR approach, submitted for evaluation, is original in that it relies on three firm commitments: t
- Staff involvement, as more than 50% of the workforce were mobilised
- Continuing dialogue with stakeholders (customers, suppliers, industrial and employers’ federations, ..) in a forward-looking approach
- Fair Trade initiatives, including extensive support to producers of essential oils
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Focus on
Fine Fragrances
NEWS /
February 2015 n°17
Trend : White
is the new Black
White is the new trend as the pendulum swings back from the recently
popular, intensely dark and opulent fragrances so redolent of the East.
Their heavy woody notes, appetizing vanilla and sultry, mossy-woody
harmonies give way to lighter, more luminous and softer
fragrances, in a shift toward sensuality and femininity.
Emblematic in its visual impact, is limited edition Sì in its
all white packaging. Or Aromatics in White from Armani.
Or again Narciso, immaculate in its luminously lacquered
packaging.
In terms of scent, White Musk threads its way into all
formulations making up the heart note of the Thierry Mugler
offering. Alternatively, White Musk is sublimated into a
multitude of evocatively echoing fragrances and ingredients.
Leathery scents are lightened in the all-white Cuir Blanc, a
skin perfume heightened by its peppery, White Musk notes
in the collection from Atelier de Givenchy. Cuir d’Ange is the
latest from the Hermessences collection, a diaphanous mist
of Hawthorn, Heliotrope and Musky powdery notes.
White fragrances from Jo Malone are airy and aquatic, with citrus overtones.
Flower-rich white perfumes are musk-laden. Gardenia and White Rose bloom
in the sensual fragrance from Narciso Rodriguez. White flowers, Rose, Jasmine
and Magnolia are marvellously combined in the latest, soft and lacy offering
from Aubade lingerie. Esteban’s Rêve Blanc with its Frangipani flowers,
velvety Orange blossom, Cyclamen, Musk and Sandalwood, is a creation of
quintessential balletic grace.
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Over and above the contrast with Black, white perfumes
themselves are contrasting, striking a deft balance between
sensuality and ethereal delicacy.
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Si White edition, Armani
Aromatics in White, Clinique
Narciso, Narciso Rodriguez
Over the Musk, Thierry Mugler
Cuir Blanc, l’Atelier de Givenchy
Cuir d’Ange, Hermès
Wood Sage & Sea Salt, Jo Malone
Anecdote, Aubade
Rêve Blanc, Esteban
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Focus on Fine Fragrances, part 2
selection of TechnicoFlor wins
Lothair, Penhaligon’s
Gold Amber Men & Women, Lambre
…precious and mysterious fragrances
February 2015 n°17
…sailing the seas
Famed British perfume house Penhaligon’s launched its
new heritage Trade Routes collection of 3 fragrances
inspired by the Tea Clippers that skimmed the
seas to bring tea and spices to the Port of London.
Lothair’s creator Bertrand Duchaufour was inspired
by these legendary ships that sailed the globe
bringing exotic wares to British shores.
Lothair for men and women opens with the tang
of Juniper and spicy notes of Cardamom and
Pink Peppercorn over a floral heart of Geranium,
Lavender and Magnolia, trailing in its wake an
elegant reminiscence of the varnished decks of
these historic ships sailing into warmer waters of
Ambergris, Fig, Vanilla and Cedar wood.
Gold Amber Women from Lambre:
Amber, Green, Musky, Floral, Gentle
Lambre proposes a characterful duo of Gold Amber Men twinned with Gold
Amber Women.
Bertrand Duchaufour gave pride of place to Amber, treasured by craftsmen
down the ages in Gdansk, combining its rich warm tones with the
brilliance of other equally precious fragrant notes.
The version for Women is a meld of Amber over Rum and Whisky harmonies
intertwined with heart notes of Rose, Beeswax and Incense over a base of
Benzoin, Myrrh and Patchouli from the East.
The version for men is sublimated by spicier notes of Cardamom and
Saffron over woody heart notes of Agarwood (Oudh) and Vetiver.
Fern, Spicy, Amber, Green
NEWS /
Gold Amber Men from Lambre:
Oriental, Spicy, Incense, Amber, Woody
Rêve Blanc, Esteban
… gently dreamy
Orange Blossom, Fresh, Citrus, Amber, Musky
Esteban’s new fragrance in the Empreinte collection tells a story in perfume drawn from long-held memories. Created by Irène
Farmachidi in close collaboration with Laëtitia Louessard, manager of Esteban’ in-house development unit, Rêve Blanc is a
bewitching combination of childhood innocence and womanly sensuality.
Woman-as-child is visualized as a ballerina dancing on the Pont des Arts in Paris, and in perfume terms by the fragrant oscillation between seductive womanhood and childhood security.
Gently budding femininity opens up harmonies of Orange Blossom and sparkling Mandarin mingled with Vanilla and richly
appetizing early memories of Apricot, all the while sensual womanhood flowers to maturity, lightly bedecked with the opulent
notes of Frangipani Blossom and Magnolia intertwined with base notes of Amber and Musk.
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Focus on Personal Care/
Beauty/Home Fragrances
Recent Heartstoppers
Bulleuses Bath Care Line,Etam
February 2015 n°17
…how to bubble?
Year end 2014 saw Etam successfully launch its Beauty Corner, in
a major strategic move by this specialist in women’s wear. With
more than 600 beauty items, Etam is cleverly combining high
fashion and beauty care. The full range of make-up products (lips,
nails, foundation, décolleté and eyes) is completed by a bath care
line featuring 13 themes to match every woman’s mood (softly
scented bubble bath Bulleuse Rêveuse for dreamy lazing, Bulleuse
Grignoteuse scented with mouth-watering almond vanilla, Bulleuse Lézardeuse evoking memories of
hot summers basking lizard-like in the sun), shower creams, scrubs, soaps, milks, oils, candles and
Eau de Toilette. More than a clothes shop, Etam is now a supplier of fragrant beauty care products to
match any mood and meet every need.
Miracle Cushion Cream,
Lancôme
…miracle cream
The Cushion Cream wave carries all
before it and is invading France with
Lancôme’s air cushion compact, a
novel applicator of moisturiser and
make-up, refreshing and unifying
the complexion, hydrating the skin
and affording it SPF 23 protection.
This take-anywhere compact is a
handy addition to a make-up bag,
ready for use day or night, thanks to
the now celebrated air cushion that
makes it so easy to apply just the
right amount.
Selection of TechnicoFlor Wins
Splendieuse* Range, Nuxe
NEWS /
…resplendent and radiant complexion
To render the complexion as Splendide as it is Radieuse, Nuxe has
developed Splendieuse, a new beauty care range for coverage of
pigmentation due to skin ageing, pregnancy or other blemishes.
Containing wild ginger flower (aka porcelain rose), it hydrates
and unifies the skin for a radiant and flawless finish. Perfume
creator Christine Lucas devised a sophisticated fragrance for
glamour brand Nuxe, made up of dazzling and luminous notes
evoking immaculacy and the utmost femininity. The heady scent
of a profusion of white flowers (Orange Blossom, Jasmine and
Gardenia) is softened by a gentle cloud of Musk to create a
fragrance that is a breath of the purest White.
*does not include mask
Floral, Orange Blossom, Neroli, Woody, Powdery, Musky
Macaroon Candle, ID Parfums
…deliciously scented violet
For Christmas and New Year, ID Parfums launched a Violet Macaroon
fragrant candle available on internet, by mail order or from Pierre Ricaud
Beauty Salons. To compose this
delicious scent, our Perfumer Irène
Farmachidi took her inspiration from
the macaroon, that most delicate
and refined of confectioneries.
Powdered Almond, Vanilla and
Tonka bean make up a scent of
rounded and flavoursome perfection
whose fragrance is heightened by a
succulent Violet ganache filling.
Gourmand, Almond, Violet, Musky
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Feedback from Perfumers
Our perfumers were happy to express their ideas and points of
view, sharing their thoughts about favourite fragrances, present
and future trends and their sources of inspiration …
February 2015 n°17
° Which current trends in perfume (in terms of fragrance and
concept, … ) made most impact on you in 2014?
Marika Symard : the generalised use of Oudh notes, previously confined to the Middle
East.
Pierre Flores : Le « Noir » est un concept encore bien présent dans les parfums, que ce
soit chez les féminins ou bien chez les masculins.
° 2.
Which of 2014’s new perfumes was your favourite?
Christine Lucas : Panthère from Cartier, for its chypre or sultry mossy-woody note,
which I find so very nostalgic. The Chypre family of perfumes are still the most chic, to
my way of thinking!
NEWS /
Pierre Flores : Homme Idéal from Guerlain. After Guerlain Homme, we’ve all been
waiting for a new Guerlain perfume for Men. This one is run through with an original
Almond note. It’s a classically appealing fragrance with harmonies of woody cologne
heightened by a rich, succulent and truly refined gourmand note.
Morgane
Collinot
Irène
Farmachidi
Christine
Lucas
Bertrand
Duchaufour
Pierre
Flores
Marika
Symard
° Where would you take us to find the most exciting fragrances?
Pierre Flores : To Spain, to a nature reserve close to Murcia, on the beaches of
Calblanque. At the height of summer when warm pine needle scent floats in the air
and fig trees exhale their milky green notes. On the way to the beach, the immortelles
or everlasting flowers waft their rich, dry fragrance in the heat, pungent with the
occasional sea lily and its white calyxes.
Bertrand Duchaufour : To Burma, where traditional cooking is an immense source of
imaginative creativity. It’s the variety and richness of the natural herbs they use.
Irène Farmachidi : To Greece. I’m in love with the tiny island I visit each summer.
Overflowing with memories of warm, flowering frangipani. This was my inspiration
when I composed Rêve Blanc, the Eau de Parfum for Esteban.
° Which ingredients do you love and always yearn
to return to?
° If you were making an Eau de Toilette, a shower gel, or other fragrant product, and you wanted it to smell of a delightful and appetising food, what would it be?
Christine Lucas : I love damascenones. They give an added lighter touch to floral notes,
and turn a bunch of flowery scents into a magnificent bouquet. Or they add fruity
notes to give depth and character to a composition.
Christine Lucas : The smell of a Paris-Brest pastry, my favourite!
Pierre Flores : Cashmeran is a multi-facetted fragrance that’s in a class of its own.
Morgane Collinot : My most comforting and appetising fragrance in mid-winter would
be a quince jelly scented candle.
Morgane Collinot : Essence of angelica root. I love the delicious green note which is
both spicy and musky all at once.
Bertrand Duchaufour : Maple syrup and Baileys are my two potential future
inspirations.
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° What perfume would it be your dream to create?
° Does today’s legislation hamper creativity?
Christine Lucas : The fragrance of outer space!
Marika Symard : Yes and no. I’ve always worked under a number of constraints, it’s
part of the game. I can’t conceive of a world where there were no laws or regulations.
Marika Symard : Everything and anything. I don’t want to be limited to Eau de Toilette.
I want to make fragrances for detergents and bring attractive scents into the heart of
the household. I’d like to please the whole family, not just one person.
NEWS /
February 2015 n°17
Morgane Collinot: A reminiscence of Japan. The special ambience of Kôyô, nature’s
transformation before leaf fall, when the maple trees redden and ginkgo leaves turn to
a majestic gold
Bertrand Duchaufour : Beautiful, beautiful, Iris. For ever and for always …
Bertrand Duchaufour : No. Really, legislation does not hamper creativity. There are so
many substitutes for banned ingredients! We won’t have all the perfumes we used to,
and things won’t be quite the same. But we’ll see new scents emerging that are just as
attractive, I’m sure of that.
Irène Farmachidi : I see working within regulatory limits as a fantastic challenge and
way of developing our know-how. Getting round a problem requires creativity. But that
doesn’t mean we don’t regret the loss, in fragrance terms, of some of the ingredients
we used to rely on.
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NEWS FROM TECHNICOFLOR
Trade Fairs
February 2015 n°17
Perfumer Workshop at In-Cosmetics Bangkok
Technicoflor attended the Bangkok Incosmetic trade fair in November. Here we held
a perfume initiation workshop run by our Perfumer, Irène Farmachidi. She showcased
her skills and presented her ingredients. She gave an introduction to the emblematic scents that have marked perfume history. A wonderful initiation to the world of
fragrance.
Future events
NEWS /
TechnicoFlor will be attending three major upcoming trade fairs, Guangzhou PCHI,
Beyond Beauty Arabia in Dubai and Barcelona In-cosmetics. A welcome opportunity
for us to tell you what we’re doing. And to meet you and hear about your ongoing
projects.
Trend Notebook 2016
Our new trend Notebook is going to press and will be available from March onwards. It
illustrates how our perfume experts have been inspired by contemporary trends. Find out
what’s stimulating them to create new notes.
Fragrances for night-time beauty care are gently downbeat, in contrast to the upbeat trend
in daytime perfumes that have all the exuberance of urban street art. Then there the scents
born of the yearning for exotic destinations—California’s Coachella Festival, fragrances that
plunge for their inspiration deep into the pulsating life of Brazil and Cuba.
- PCHI, Ghangzou: from 12 through 14 March 2015
- Beyond Beauty Arabia, Dubai: from 25 through 28 March 2015
- In-cosmetics, Barcelona: from 14 through 16 April 2015