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Fergal O’Hannrachain, Irish fiddler for Heartlands
Fergal O’Hannrachain, violoniste irlandais du groupe Heartlands
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International Community
162 nationalities live in Luxembourg,
including 2,000 Irish.
162 nationalités cohabitent à Luxembourg,
dont 2.000 Irlandais.
Vibrant Sounds
of a Living
Tradition
The fiddle that Fergal O’Hannrachain plays is the same
as a classic violin – physically they are identical.
But Fergal’s fiddle, like the traditional Irish music it plays,
is for him: “Alive, vibrant... a truly living thing.”
Photos: Andres Lejona / Conception de l’espace: Pascale Michalski
U
nlike the classical violin, the fiddle
has that fundamental quality that is
at the soul of all Irish music: it is
social. It plays the familiar tunes that are heard
in village pubs throughout Ireland – from tearful ballads to jaunty jigs, songs that the locals
seem to know by long association, verse by
verse. Despite concerns by some musicians,
Fergal is not worried that traditional, or “trad”,
music will fizzle or fade. He argues that it is as
popular as ever, even as it absorbs new influences: “It thrives on fresh injections of new
ideas, which in turn is bringing in a whole new
generation of listeners and players.”
The loyal crowd that gathers on the last
Thursday of each month at Oscar Wilde’s Pub
is proof. They have come to meet their friends,
share a story over a pull of draught and hear
the regular jam session of Heartlands, a local
trad music group with the “cabbage and pot” of
trad instruments: fiddle, tin-whistle, accordion,
flute, mandolin and Uilleann pipes (Irish bagpipes).
Heartlands has been tied to the Irish community for over a decade, but Irish traditions have
been celebrated since the first wave of Irish to
Luxembourg. Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann celebrates 25 years this year and is responsible for
promoting Irish music, dance and culture in
Luxembourg. It is part of a large international
organisation that sponsors festivals (fleadh) 39
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Lords
and Ladies
of the Dance
Centuries ago traveling dance masters
would wander through Ireland teaching
jigs and reels, tying hay to their pupils’ left
foot and straw to their right, yelling
“lift hay feet!” to help them learn the
steps and kicks. Today, Rita Neville doesn’t
have to tie hay to her students’ feet,
which fly lightly around the floor in soft
lace-up shoes as she calls out her instructions: “Swallow the floor... hands by your
side... advance, retire!” Rita, originally from
Limerick, teaches an international group
ranging from six to seventeen years old.
Although they have participated in feis
competitions, Rita’s group is performancebased. You can see them high-stepping
in various fêtes in Luxembourg throughout
the year. “It’s more difficult than it looks,”
says Rita as she leads them in centuriesold dances with names to match: “Walls
of Limerick” and the “Siege of Innis.”
Her students swing in each other’s arms
between great gasps of laughter. DFA
Lords
et Ladies
de la danse
Il y a de cela plusieurs siècles, des professeurs
de danse itinérants parcouraient l’Irlande pour
enseigner gigues et quadrilles, attachant du
foin (hay) au pied gauche de leurs élèves et
de la paille (straw) à leur pied droit, leur
criant «lift hay feet!» pour les aider à
apprendre pas et battements de pieds.
Aujourd’hui, Rita Neville n’a nul besoin d’attacher du foin aux pieds de ses élèves dont les
souples chaussons lacés glissent avec légèreté
sur le sol tandis qu’elle donne ses instructions:
«Occupez l’espace... Mains sur les côtés...
Avancez, reculez!» Rita, originaire de Limerick,
enseigne la danse à un groupe d’enfants de
toutes nationalités âgés de six à dix-sept ans.
Bien que ses élèves aient déjà participé
à des concours de «feis», la classe de Rita se
consacre principalement au spectacle.
Vous pouvez les voir danser toute l’année à
l’occasion des différentes fêtes données au
Luxembourg. «C’est plus difficile que ça en a
l’air», explique Rita tandis qu’elle enseigne à ses
élèves des danses centenaires aux noms évocateurs: Walls of Limerick ou Siege of Innis. Les
jeunes danseurs se balancent dans les bras l’un
de l’autre entre deux grands éclats de rire.
Rita Neville, Irish Traditional Dancing Teacher
Rita Neville, professeur de danse traditionnelle irlandaise
where thousands of musicians and dancers
work their way through regional competitions
to be able to participate in the All-Ireland finals
at Fleadh Cheoil. “It is the Mecca of Irish music,”
Fergal confirms. “The standard of the ‘amateur’
groups competing is so high that it is really
professional.” Some of the All-Ireland winners
will be performing at the local Comhaltas
St Patrick’s Day event this month.
Comhaltas is attended annually by over a
million people and have resonated in Irish
communities all over the world, including our
own. Its main focus is fostering the enthusiasm of the amateur or voluntary musician
within the framework of traditional Irish
music in its purist form. In addition to music,
Comhaltas supports Irish song and dance traditions as well as Irish language courses (Irish is
now an official language of the European
Union). Luxembourg has all of these elements
represented.
As the local Comhaltas chapter began hosting “céilí” (dances) for the growing Irish community in Luxembourg, so evolved the need
for live musical accompaniment. Up to that
point Heartlands was “a social group”, as Fergal
40
describes it: “We were just an eclectic group
who enjoyed traditional music and playing it
informally.” There were few places to play publicly, so they went to small Luxembourgish
bars and “just took over.” Eventually, thanks to
the efforts of founder John Sweeney, the group
became more organised and today has gigs in
many community fêtes, or you may catch them
tuning up at favourite Irish haunts such as
Oscar’s, The Pyg or Black Stuff. The most
unusual gig to date? “I’ll never forget the Irish
Wolfhound Association fête – playing to a passing parade of dogs.”
Heartlands Sounds
Members of Heartlands are also doing their
part to fulfill the Comhaltas’ vision of encouraging Irish music in the young, amateur enthusiast. Heartlands player Terry O’Brien, amongst
others, organises traditional music classes for
musicians on a variety of instruments.
Contemporary Irish music is also getting
mainstream attention, and Fleadh festivals
abound, showcasing professional groups from
Lúnasa and Aslan to Kila and the Sharon
Shannon Big Band. All were featured in
the World Fleadh which debuted last year,
“St Patrick’s Experience” in Place d’Armes will
feature the popular Irish ballad group, Dublin
City Workingman’s Band, which have been
called the “Dubliners for the naughties.” Fergal
notes: “There’s so many different styles of the
music now, a lot of ‘trad light’ or traditional
music fused with modern.”
As Heartlands tunes up for another jam session at Oscar’s, there is camaraderie and an
amiable connection between players and listeners around the pub – like sinking into a
comfortable chair with familiar sounds and
faces. There is a bit of story-telling and a
seeming lack of agenda. It’s as if the tunes
arise by mutual consent, and may hold surprises even for the players. “We Irish are
relaxed as part of our nature,” says Fergal.
“Relaxed and flexible. Which allows you to
either have no plans, or to be totally prepared
for the unexpected!” And Fergal’s Dublinesque
spin on an evening of singing, joking, gossiping and tunes? “A brilliant craic – a ninety!”
Deborah Fulton Anderson
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Ray Hickey, Entrepreneur
Ray Hickey, entrepreneur
Seite 41
Urban
Energy
Énergie
urbaine
On his way back to Ireland from five
months of “travelling with the lads”,
working just long enough to pay expenses,
Ray Hickey landed in Luxembourg.
He did short-order in the kitchen of
Congo, a bar-restaurant where he was
smitten by his lovely co-worker Laura.
A banking position brought him back to
Luxembourg the next time. “I lasted four
days,” says Ray. On the fifth day he
bought Congo, and this energetic
entrepreneur has never looked back.
“There is such an abundance of business
opportunities here!” Case in point, in 2002
he and his brother Tom opened Urban,
a “Dublin-style city bar.” Ray attributes
its success to a welcoming staff and
an atmosphere “where we would want
to go ourselves. Like we say in Ireland…
if anything happens, it’s first gonna
happen in a pub.” Ray, Laura and their
two sons now consider Luxembourg
home. With another venture under way –
Big Event Productions, co-organisers of
the “St Patrick’s Experience 2007” – Ray
is surely part of what’s “gonna make it
happen” in the Grand Duchy. DFA
C’est sur le chemin du retour vers l’Irlande,
après un «voyage entre copains» de cinq
mois où il travaillait juste assez pour payer
ses dépenses, que Ray Hickey se retrouve au
Luxembourg. Chargé de la restauration rapide
du Congo, un bar-restaurant, il tombe sous
le charme de sa ravissante collègue, Laura.
La fois suivante, c’est un poste dans le secteur bancaire qui le ramène au Luxembourg.
«Je n’y ai tenu que quatre jours», explique-til. Le cinquième jour, cet entrepreneur
énergique achète le Congo et ne l’a jamais
regretté. «Il y a tellement d’opportunités
professionnelles ici!» La preuve en est: en
2002, il crée avec son frère Tom un «bar
urbain dans le style dublinois», Urban.
Ray attribue son succès à son personnel
accueillant et à l’atmosphère d’un lieu «où
nous aimerions aller nous-mêmes. Comme
on dit en Irlande, si quelque chose doit arriver, c’est au pub que ça arrivera.» Ray, Laura
et leurs deux fils se sentent maintenant chez
eux au Luxembourg. Avec un nouveau projet
en cours – Big Event Productions, co-organisateur de la St. Patrick’s Experience 2007 –
Ray fait sans nul doute partie de ceux qui «font
que les choses arrivent» au Grand-Duché.
Vibrantes sonorités
pour une tradition bien vivante
L
e fiddle dont joue Fergal O’Hannrachain
est similaire au violon classique – physiquement ils sont identiquess. Mais le violon
de Fergal, tout comme la musique traditionnelle irlandaise qu’il joue, est selon lui:
«Animé, vibrant... un objet vraiment vivant».
Contrairement au violon classique, le fiddle
présente la caractéristique principale d’être
l’âme même de la musique irlandaise: il est
social. C’est sur ce violon que sont joués les airs
bien connus que l’on entend dans les pubs de
tous les villages d’Irlande – tristes ballades ou
gigues enjouées, leurs habitants semblent
connaître ces chansons depuis toujours, à la
rime près.
Musique
traditionnelle
Malgré les inquiétudes de certains musiciens, Fergal ne craint pas la disparition ou l’extinction de la musique traditionnelle ou «trad».
Elle est en effet plus populaire que jamais,
explique-t-il, même si elle intègre maintenant
de nouvelles influences: «Elle se développe
grâce à l’intégration de nouvelles idées, ce qui
amène également toute une nouvelle génération de spectateurs et de musiciens».
Fergal joue au sein de Heartlands, un groupe
local «trad» très lié au Comhaltas Ceoltóirí
Éireann, qui célèbre 25 ans de promotion de la
musique, de la danse et de la culture irlandaises au Luxembourg. Ce groupe fait partie
d’une importante organisation qui sponsorise
des festivals («fleadh») grâce auxquels des milliers de musiciens et de danseurs peuvent accéder à des concours régionaux et participer à la
finale All-Ireland de Fleadh Cheoil.
«C’est la Mecque de la musique traditionnelle
irlandaise,» confirme Fergal. «Le niveau des
groupes “amateurs” en compétition est si élevé
qu’on atteint un résultat vraiment professionnel». Certains des vainqueurs de l’All-Ireland
joueront lors du concert organisé ce mois-ci au
Luxembourg par le Comhaltas local à l’occasion
de la Saint Patrick.
La musique irlandaise contemporaine attire
également l’attention du public et des médias et
les festivals Fleadh se multiplient en Europe,
présentant des groupes professionnels très
populaires. La «St. Patrick’s Experience» qui se
déroulera Place d’Armes ce mois-ci présentera,
en parallèle de troupes de danse, le groupe irlandais de ballades Dublin City Workingman’s Band.
A really good craic!
Fergal note: «Il existe maintenant tellement de
styles de musique différents, un grand nombre
de musiques "trad light" ou traditionnelles ont
fusionné avec la musique moderne».
Les événements organisés par la communauté irlandaise du Luxembourg sont décontractés
et il existe toujours une grande camaraderie
entre les musiciens et leur public. La Saint
Patrick promet d’être un vrai bon moment, «a
really good craic!», comme disent les Dublinois.
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Accents
of Home
Accents du
pays natal
Una Clifford may miss County Derry, but after
almost three years in Luxembourg she is happy
with the transition. “There is an excitement
here if you know where to find the sparks,”
says Una. “The key is to learn how and where
to look for what’s going on.” The close-knit
Irish community here was essential. “At work
we have a mentoring programme. Knowing no
one those first months here, I was invited to
parties in Irish homes surrounded by the familiar talk and accents of home.” But Una has not
limited herself to speaking in her native tongue.
A Cambridge graduate, she readily absorbs
new languages. “After French and German,
I thought a bit of Latino spirit would do a
treat.” That has led to the study of Spanish,
Portuguese and her latest endeavour – Turkish.
As enthusiastic as she is for international
connections, she retains a solid tie to all things
Irish. “The country, the community and
our family are all very important to us.
Forty shades of green and forty shades
of goodness lie there too.” DFA
Il se peut que son Derry natal manque à Una
Clifford mais, après presque trois années passées
au Luxembourg, elle est heureuse de cette
transition. «C’est un endroit excitant si vous
savez où dénicher les bons plans, explique Una.
La clé est de savoir où et comment se tenir
informé de ce qui se passe.» La très solidaire
communauté irlandaise présente sur place s’est
avérée essentielle. «Au travail, nous avons un
programme de mentorat. Comme je ne connaissais personne ici les premiers mois, j’ai été invitée à des fêtes dans des familles irlandaises où
j’étais entourée par la langue et les accents
familiers du pays». Mais Una ne se contente
pas de parler sa langue natale. Diplômée de
Cambridge, elle assimile facilement de nouvelles
langues. «Après le français et l’allemand, je me
suis dit qu’une petite touche latine serait la
bienvenue». C’est ainsi qu’elle commence à étudier l’espagnol, le portugais puis le turc, son tout
dernier projet. Malgré son enthousiasme pour les
relations internationales, elle conserve des liens
solides avec tout ce qui se rapporte à l’Irlande.
«Notre pays, notre communauté et notre famille
sont très importants pour nous. On trouve
en Irlande quarante nuances de vert mais aussi
quarante vertus».
Una Clifford, finding the sparks in Luxembourg
Una Clifford, à la recherche de bons plans à Luxembourg
Ireland Facts
FOR MORE INFORMATION:
Embassy of Ireland
HE Mr. Martin Burke
Ambassador of Ireland to Luxembourg
28, route d’Arlon, L-1140 Luxembourg
Tel 45 06 10 24, Fax 45 8820, [email protected]
Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann,
Luxembourg Branch
Irish Cultural Organisation. Sponsors music,
dance and language courses/events
www.comhaltas.lu
[email protected]
Irish Club of Luxembourg
Open to all nationalities. www.irishclub.lu
Gaelic Sports Club Luxembourg
Open to all nationalities – men’s and ladies’ teams
luxembourg.europe.gaa.ie
[email protected]
Cumann Gaelach Irish Language Club
Classes and speakers. [email protected]
42
Luxembourg Rose of Tralee
Participation in Rose of Tralee festival
www.rose.lu
IRELAND IN LUXEMBOURG:
Ireland – A Big Language with a Small Base
Lecture by Professor Alan Titley,
University College, Cork
01.03.07, 20h, Salle des Fêtes, European School
[email protected]
Night at the Races
Gaelic Sports Club event
02.03.07, 20h, Black Stuff Irish Pub
[email protected]
St Patrick’s Experience
Two-day festival with live performances
Sponsored by Black Stuff
and Big Event Productions
16.03.07, 17h and 17.03.07, 12.30h
Place d’Armes, Luxembourg
blackstuff.lu/html/stpatricksexperience2007
“Céilí” Traditional Irish Dance
Live music and dancing
Sponsored by Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann
17.03.07, 18.30h children, 20h adults
Arquebusiers Tennis Club, Val St Croix
Bookings: [email protected]
St Patrick’s Dinner Party
Sponsored by the Irish Club
17.03.07, 19.30h, Novotel Luxembourg, Kirchberg
Bookings: [email protected]
WHERE IRISH MEET IN LUXEMBOURG:
Black Stuff Irish Pub, Oscar Wilde’s,
The Pyg, Town House, Urban Bar and Kitchen…
(see Vademecum)
ABOUT IRELAND:
Population: 07/2006: 4,062,235 (est.)
Capital: Dublin
National Holiday: 17 March, St Patrick’s Day
Government: Republic, parliamentary democracy
Head of state: President Mary McAleese
Head of government:
Prime Minister Bertie Ahern
FAMOUS IRISH:
Oscar Wilde, novelist, satirist
Samuel Beckett, dramatist, novelist
William Butler Yeats, poet
James Joyce, novelist
Jonathan Swift, writer of Gulliver’s Travels
Peter O’Toole, actor
Sinéad O’Connor, singer, songwriter
Van Morrison, singer, songwriter
Bono, lead singer of U2
Michael O’Leary, CEO of Ryanair