la belle vie en vélo the cycle of life
Transcription
la belle vie en vélo the cycle of life
Three days, three chefs, three routes through beautiful Kelowna Trois jours, trois chefs, trois itinéraires dans la magnifique région de Kelowna Story by/par Deb Cummings • Illustrations by/par Wes Dauncey Tantalus Vineyard. Right: Carmelis Goat Cheese; Okanagan Lavender Herb Farm; Okanagan Grocery Artisan Bread. Inset: Deb Cummings (left) and Jocelyn Colquhoun. Le vignoble Tantalus; À droite, de haut en bas : Fromages de chèvre de Carmelis; lavende de l'Okanagan Lavender Herb Farm; le pain d'Okanagan Artisan Bread.Encart : Deb Cummings (à g.) et son amie Jocelyn Colquhoun. 44 August 2014 upmagazine.com Tk Tk Tantalus Vineyards photo by Brian Sprout/Tourism Kelowna, Lavender & Herb Farm photo by Salt Food Photography/Tourism Kelowna, Artisan Bread photo by David McIlvride,/Spatula Media, Deb and Jocelyn photo by Scott Lazenby THE CYCLE OF LIFE LA BELLE VIE EN VÉLO I f you’d like to indulge your inner foodie in Kelowna, B.C., without expanding your waistline, consider padding your dining itinerary with plenty of cycling. That’s what my friend Jocelyn and I dedided to do on a recent getaway to this land of artisan farms, family-run orchards and prolific gardens. But we added a second twist. After renting road and mountain bikes from Kelowna’s Fresh Air Concept store, we asked three local chefs to take us on their favourite food-friendly rides. Three days, three chefs, three routes—all starting from our home base at the Hotel Eldorado. Here’s a taste of each one. À Kelowna, pour satisfaire votre appétit gastronomique sans gagner en tour de taille, envisagez d’agrémenter votre itinéraire gourmand de beaucoup de vélo. C’est ce que nous avons fait avec mon amie Jocelyn lors de notre dernière escapade dans cette région de fermes artisanales, de vergers familiaux et de jardins prolifiques. De plus, nous y avons ajouté une autre variante. Après avoir loué des vélos de route sans oublier des VTT chez Fresh Air Concept, nous avons demandé à trois chefs locaux de nous faire découvrir leurs balades gastronomiques préférées. Trois jours, trois chefs, trois -itinéraires avec pour point de départ l’hôtel Eldorado où nous séjournions. Découvrez un avant-goût de chacun d’entre eux. August 2014 westjet.com 45 97 Ok a an Day 1 • 1er jour L ak esh ore dL Rd or an ier df e 3 Arlo’s Honey Farm/ Ferme apicole d’Arlo uc Be Sa Okanagan Lake Lac Okanagan Sallow Rd 2 Sunshine Farm/ La ferme Sunshine Local Chef: Geoffrey Couper, former head of the Okanagan Chefs Association. Route Highlights: 1. Hotel Eldorado, 2. Sunshine Farm on Saucier Road, 3. Arlo’s Honey Farm on Bedford Lane. Distance: 25.7 km on road bikes De g. à dr. dans le sens habituel : Le rivage du lac Okanagan; l'hôtel Eldorado; cuisine à la ferme Sunshine; John Alcock à la ferme Sunshine; l'apicultrice Helen Kennedy H e may work as a chef and culinary instructor for a living, but lean, spandex-clad Geoffrey Couper looks more like he belongs at the front of a peloton. Luckily, he assures us there will be no old-school tight-cycling terror on this trip. Instead, he leads us on an easy climb through the tidy hills in the southeast of Kelowna to Sunshine Farm—a favourite fresh-produce spot for local chefs. We meet up with farmer Jon Alcock, who tours us around his 12.5acre spread, pointing out his seven colours of carrots, Malabar spinach and Dragon Tongue mustard—just some of the organic produce he supplies to restaurants in town. We then nab a spot at one of Alcock’s Earth to Table meals, held outside next to his woodfired oven (which, on this day, is producing walnut pesto pizzas). After too many courses to count, we take our homemade sour cherry panna cotta popsicles on our bikes and head to our next stop, Arlo’s, where beekeeper Helen Kennedy awaits. Take a pre-booked tour here and you’ll learn that Kennedy gets her queen bees every May from Kona, Hawaii, that your average busy bee produces less than half a teaspoon of honey in its lifetime and that Kennedy’s 14-acre farm supports 200 beehives, each one home to 60,000 bees. The rest of the day’s cycle is a gentle downhill cruise back to town where we slurp Gewürztraminer slushies on the lakefront patio at the El. 46 August 2014 upmagazine.com Le chef local : Geoffrey Couper, ancien dirigeant de l’association des chefs de l’Okanagan. Itinéraire : 1. Hôtel Eldorado, 2. Ferme Sunshine sur Saucier Road, 3. Ferme apicole d’Arlo sur Bedford Lane. Distance : 25,7 km en vélo de route B ien qu’ancien dirigeant de l’association des chefs de l’Okanagan, Geoffrey Couper, bien mince dans sa tenue de cycliste, ressemble plus à un coureur de tête de peloton. Heureusement, il nous garantit que l’on ne va pas se faire la vieille frayeur de rouler dangereusement, trop serrés. En effet, il nous précède sur une montée facile à travers les collines bien ordonnées du sud-est de Kelowna jusqu’à la ferme Sunshine, lieu de prédilection des chefs locaux pour ses produits frais. Nous y rencontrons le fermier John Alcock qui nous fait visiter sa propriété de 12,5 acres. Il nous montre ses sept différentes couleurs de carottes, ses épinards de Malabar et sa moutarde brune, un échantillon seulement des produits biologiques qu’il fournit aux restaurants de la ville. Puis, nous trouvons une table dans l’un des espaces de restaurations Earth to Table de John Alcock (de la terre à la table), situé en plein air à côté de son four au feu de bois, qui ce jour-là cuit des pizzas au pesto de noix. Après une succession innombrable de plats, nous prenons des glaces faites maison à la panna cotta et à la cerise acide et remontons sur nos vélos jusqu’à chez Arlo, l’étape suivante, où l’apicultrice Helen Kennedy nous attend. Avec une visite guidée réservée à l’avance, vous apprendrez qu’Helen Kennedy fait venir, tous les ans en mai, les reines des abeilles de la région de Kona à Hawaï, que l’abeille courante produit moins d’une demi-cuillère à café de miel pendant sa durée de vie et que sa ferme de 14 acres compte 200 ruches avec 60 000 abeilles par ruche. La balade en vélo de la journée s’achève en dévalant des pentes douces vers la ville pour aller boire à grand bruit des barbotines au Gewürztraminer sur la terrasse du bord du lac de notre hôtel. August 2014 westjet.com 47 Arial Kelowna photo courtesy of Tourism Kelowna, Arlo's photo by Christina Symons/Tourism Kelowna, Hotel Eldorado photo by Shawn Talbot, Rd Photos, clockwise from top left: The shores of Okanagan Lake; Hotel Eldorado; preparing treats at Sunshine Farm; John Alcock at Sunshine Farm; beekeeper Helen Kennedy. Hotel Eldorado/ Hôtel Eldorado 1 Day 2 • 2e jour Local Chef: Ross Derrick, restaurant chef at Delta Grand Resort. Route Highlights: 1. Mission Greenway, 2. Kelowna Farmers’ Market, 3. Springfield Road to Codfathers’ Fish Market, 4. Okanagan Grocery Artisan Breads, 5. Delta Grand Hotel Distance: 24.77 km on mountain bikes Photos clockwise: Lime-cured pink wild salmon appetizer from 97 Codfathers; Okanagan Grocery 33 Rutland Rd Artisan Breads; Kelowna Farmers’ Market. Delta Grand Hotel/ Hôtel Delta Grand 97 Harvey Ave Codfathers’ Fish Market/ Marché aux poissons Codfathers 3 4 Kelowna Farmers’ Market/ 2 Marché fermier de Kelowna Okanagan Grocery Artisan Breads/ Boulangerie Okanagan Grocery Artisan Breads Okanagan Lake Lac Okanagan Mission Greenway/ 1 Sentier Mission Greenway 48 August 2014 upmagazine.com Photos dans le sens habituel : Saumon rose sauvage en saumure de lime chez Codfathers; boulangerie Okanagan Grocey Artisan Breads; marché fermier de Kelowna O n the morning of Day Two, Chef Ross Derrick greets us in the El’s parking lot with empty knapsacks and panniers, eager to beat the Saturday crowds at B.C.’s largest farmers’ market. Soon we’re riding along his favourite city bike route, the 17.5-kilometrelong Mission Greenway that hugs the leafy banks of Mission Creek. We take the Greenway for just under 10 km to the Kelowna Farmers’ Market, where more than 165 vendors are selling everything from twists of furry red sumac to endless buckets of cherries, apricots and peaches. We pick up some of Derrick’s favourite market bites, then ride for a few minutes to two of his other regular Saturday stops—Codfathers and Okanagan Grocery Artisan Bread, both in Guisachan Village. Like any true-blue fishmonger, “Codfather” Jon Crofts regales us with stories, as does his next-door neighbour Monika Walker, the head baker, who uses only sourdough starter for the roughly 800 gorgeous loaves she makes each day. With heavily laden bikes, we wobble off to the grounds of the Delta Grand for an extraordinary picnic and a slice of cabana culture. L e chef Ross Derrick nous accueille sur le parc de stationnement de l’hôtel avec des sacs à dos et des sacoches vides, pressé d’éviter la foule du samedi du marché fermier le plus grand de C.-B. Nous prenons aussitôt sa piste cyclable préférée, la Mission Greenway de 17,5 km de long qui suit les berges ombragées de Mission Creek. Nous l’empruntons pour un peu moins de 10 km jusqu’au marché fermier de Kelowna, où plus de 165 commerçants vendent à peu près tout, comme des épis de sumac rouge touffu ou des tonnes de cerises, abricots et pêches. Nous achetons à manger quelques-uns des produits préférés de Ross Derrick, puis nous reprenons nos vélos pour quelques minutes jusqu’à Codfathers et Okanagan Grocery, deux de ses étapes habituelles du samedi, situées dans Guisachan Village. Comme tout bon poissonnier, Jon Crofts de Codfathers nous enchante avec ses histoires, ainsi que sa voisine d’à côté Monika Walker, chef de la boulangerie, qui utilise uniquement du levain pour les magnifiques 800 pains qu’elle fabrique tous les jours. Enfin, nous vacillons sur nos vélos lourdement chargés, jusqu’à l’hôtel Delta Grand pour un merveilleux pique-nique et un aperçu de la culture de la cabane. Codfathers photo by Jasmin Dosanj Photography, Artisan Bread photo by David McIlvride/Spatula Media, Fruit Stand photo by Kerri-Jo Stewart/Tourism Kelowna 5 7 Le chef local : Ross Derrick, chef du restaurant du Delta Grand Resort. Itinéraire : 1. Sentier Mission Greenway, 2. Marché fermier de Kelowna, 3. Marché aux poissons Codfathers, 4. Boulangerie Okanagan Grocery Artisan Breads, 5. Hôtel Delta Grand. Distance : 24,77 km en vélo de montagne Get this card. (Unless you like waiting to redeem.) Redeem any amount, whenever you want.* Check your seatback pocket or visit rbc.com/wjoffer to apply today. Only available to residents of Canada. ®/TMTrademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. ‡All other trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s). *WestJet dollars cannot be applied against taxes, fees or charges and can only be used to pay for all or part of new WestJet-marketed and operated flights and vacation packages. Other restrictions may apply. Visit westjet.com/rewards for details. K français Article up! March 2014 | upmagazine.com | Volume 10 Issue 3 de fond en up! April 2014 | upmagazine.com | Volume 10 Issue 4 up! 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January 2014 | upmagazine.com | Volume 10 upmagazine.com Feb. 2014 Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911 Los Angeles, Chicago, Phoenix, New York City Ultimate Issue 12 stops to savour Las Vegas up! December 2013 | upmagazine.com | Volume 9 Charlottetown, Halifax, Montreal, Ottawa, Toronto, Winnipeg, Yellowknife, Edmonton, Vancouver and the Canadian Rockies Sports Fan Getaways Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911 6 Maui Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911 Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911 The Look This Palm Springs Shop, dine and take in the scene Romance in the Rockies/Saving time in Disneyland up! February 2014 | upmagazine.com | Volume 10 Issue 2 Le chef local : Jeremy Luypen, ancien chef cuisinier de Mission H wy 33 Tap House. Itinéraire : 1. Lakeshore Road, 2. Fromagerie Carmelis, 3. Vinerie Summerhill Pyramid Distance : 69,34 km en vélo de route One-of-a-kind adventures in stops for the design-inclined Take me with you Turks & Caicos Orlando Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911 97 Local Chef: Jeremy Luypen, former executive chef of Mission Tap House. Route Highlights: 1. Lakeshore Road, 2. Carmelis Goat Cheese farm, 3. Summerhill Pyramid Winery Distance: 69.34 km on road bikes y Rutland Rd Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911 Harvey Ave 33 aR Quebec City Winter Carnival dining spots Choose your own adventure in this tropical paradise 6 Puerto Vallarta Hot spots for art lovers Resort reviews, gear news and Canadian Olympic hopeful Roz Groenewoud 7 Manhattan spots for great holiday shopping Orlando Behind the scenes at Walt Disney World Oahu Discover the thrill of lava sledding U-12-13 cover Mock up 2.indd 1 ar t R d Okanagan Lake Lac Okanagan 3 Summerhill Pyramid Winery/ Vinerie Summerhill Pyramid L sh ake ore Rd 1 Lakeshore Road / Lakeshore Road 2 Carmelis Goat Cheese farm/ Fromagerie Carmelis Photos de haut en bas : Cave d'affinage de Carmelis Goat Cheese Artisan Inc.; vue de la terrasse à la vinerie Summerhill Pyramid J eremy Luypen’s favourite area to cycle is south of town, along Lakeshore Road. He leads the way as we spin past wineries and orchards. While we ride, it becomes clear why the 250-km-long Okanagan Valley is home to one of the longest running triathlons in North America, the Kelowna Apple Triathlon—before us lies a huge lake and sweeping mountains. We chug up the hills along Okanagan Lake, marvelling at the multi-milliondollar manses that hug the rocky shoreline. Luypen comes to a stop at Carmelis Goat Cheese, where we sample 10 types of locally made, additive-free goat cheese for $2. Soon we’ve knocked off 60 km, so we stop at one of Luypen’s top patio picks, Summerhill Pyramid Winery, where we take in the sprawling views of the lake, pounce on the charcuterie platter (which includes chunks of bison sausage and candied salmon) and toast to a safe ride back with a flute of Cipes Brut. We also toast to Kelowna, the cycling mecca and foodie’s paradise that has provided this perfect, savoury summer getaway. L ’endroit préféré de Jeremy Luypen pour une balade en vélo, est au sud de la ville, le long de Lakeshore Road. Il ouvre le chemin tandis que nous passons des vineries et des vergers. Sur nos vélos, comme un lac immense et des montagnes majestueuses s’offrent à nos yeux, on commence à comprendre pourquoi la vallée de l’Okanagan, d’une longueur de 250 km, accueille l’une des plus anciennes compétitions de l’Ironman de l’Amérique du Nord, le Kelowna Apple Triathlon. On progresse tant bien que mal dans les collines longeant le lac Okanagan, en s’émerveillant devant les manoirs de plusieurs millions de dollars qui bordent le rivage rocheux. Jeremy Luypen finit par s’arrêter à la fromagerie de Carmelis, où nous goûtons une dizaine de fromages de chèvre faits sur place et sans additif pour le prix de 2 $. Puis comme nous atteignons les 60 km, nous nous arrêtons à la vinerie Summerhill Pyramid, sur l’une des terrasses préférées de Jeremy Luypen, d’où l’on embrasse une vue panoramique sur le lac. Nous nous jetons sur le plateau de charcuterie, avec des morceaux de saucisses de bisons et un confit de saumon, et nous trinquons pour un retour sans encombre avec une flûte de Cipes Brut. S’Y RENDRE WestJet dessert Kelowna 16 fois par jour au départ de six villes canadiennes. and other insiders on dining in Montreal Toronto New York City Miami Las Vegas Vancouver The Food Guide 6 Scottsdale Stops on a Culinary Walking Tour Bahamas Diving into Pirate Paradise Cancun Celebrating Day of the Dead upmagazine.com June 2013 Take me with you e Ultimmatily Fa ide 8 Gu res filled adventu with fun Tracy Moore host In Pages packed with TV Music Festivals PLUS a chat Montreal Ottawa, City Power Shopping Springs, and Quebec in Palm California Eating Well in Sedona/Paragliding in Vancouver up! July 2013 | upmagazine.com | Volume 9 Issue 7 up! June 2013 | upmagazine.com | Volume 9 Issue 6 Take me with you Chef Chuck Hughes U-10-13 cover Final.indd 1 GETTING THERE WestJet flies to Kelowna 16 times a day from six Canadian cities. 50 August 2014 upmagazine.com upmagazine.com Oct. 2013 Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911 Left, top to bottom: In the aging cellar at Carmelis Goat Cheese Artisan Inc.; Patio view from Summerhill Pyramid Winery. upmagazine.com July 2013 Take me with you Play Ball Behind the Scenes with Toronto Blue Jays catcher J.P. Arencibia 7 San Francisco Alleyways to Explore Chicago A Family-Friendly Getaway inflight, online, or on any device. 9/5/13 1:55 PM U-7-13 cover Final.indd 1 Tijuana Discover this Revitalized Mexican Border Town 6/7/13 9:21 AM Get more up! creativity + originality + innovation Take up! everywhere you go. All past issues are available online, which means you can get tips, guides and stories anytime on your mobile device. INTERNATIONAL AWARD WINNING JEWELLERY DESIGNERS • SINCE 1972 946 Fort St, Victoria • 250-383-3414 • www.idar.com /IdarJewellers Summerhill Pyramid Winery photo courtesy of Tourism Kelowna S wam Gordon Dr p Rd 7 DeH up! October 2013 | upmagazine.com | Volume 9 Issue 10 Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911 The idar signature look - make it yours Inflight food and entertainment menu now inside 11/5/13 10:41 AM Please your palate on P.E.I./Kayaking in B.C. Jian Ghomeshi/Harvest Dinners/Halloween Haunts Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911 Ok anag an Day 3 • 3e jour elo w n Hw Glenmore Rd 97 Gordon Dr 97 McCurdy Rd Jewellery Designs © 2014 IDAR @idarjewellers Pack more i to your stay. From psychedelic music festivals to eclectic art galleries, unforgettable stays start downtown. Book your room today. explore edmonton.com/downtown August 2014 westjet.com 51