the report Smart Conversation PV Paris

1SYNTHESIS REPORT SMART CONVERSATION
15-17 SEPTEMBRE 2015
SMART CONVERSATION :
Highlighting the integration of a new generation of
responsible values in the fashion and textile industries.
Participants:
Philippe PASQUET, President of Première Vision
Caroline RUSH, Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council (BFC)
Carlo CAPASA, Director of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI)
Chantal MALINGREY, Director of Marketing and Development, Première Vision
Moderator:
Giusy BETTONI, Founding President of CLASS consulting on sustainable innovation for textiles,
fashion and design.
CONFERENCE REPORT:
Première Vision, Villepinte, 15 September 2015
The conference session was opened by Mr. Philippe Pasquet who reminded attendees of
Première Vision’s mission as a historical, central actor of the fashion and textile industry. He
introduced the conference theme and Première Vision’s proposal to the new environment of
responsibility.
The launch by Première Vision of the ‘Smart Creation Première Vision’ strategy and of the ‘Smart
Conversations’ initiative, implemented following international research conducted by a team of
internal and external experts, is a first, shared step by the key international fashion institutions
towards delivering these new values and a new business model to the market. Most of all, the new
value of responsibility is crucial for the future of the fashion industry.
1SYNTHESIS REPORT SMART CONVERSATION
15-17 SEPTEMBRE 2015
Chantal MALINGREY explained that, rather than being a new label or eco product initiative, the
‘Smart Creation’ program is destined to become a long-term, industry-wide strategy with the
objective of providing the textile and fashion sector with these new values that are consumer-led:
not only the demand for eco-friendly products also for greater respect for the social conditions in
fashion manufacturing and production.
Brands and big groups are already very active on these questions, with growing investments.
Acting on a broader industry scale, Première Vision aims to provide information and increase
transparency across all the actors present at Première Vision’s different fairs. This information
is collected via a non-mandatory questionnaire called ‘Smart Facts’ that allows exhibitors to
communicate the traceability of material sourcing, the transparency of production processes and
broader corporate and social initiatives. At the time of the conference, 150 exhibitors had already
responded and many more are expected to do so. The Première Vision mobile application lists the
companies who have participated in the study. The full results will be released when available and
will be communicated through specific communication tools.
Caroline RUSH explained the historical nature of the British Fashion Council’s commitment with
notably the launch in 2006 of the Estethica platform with the aim of promoting sustainable fashion
at both the heart of the London Fashion Week and in mainstream fashion. The BFC’s strategy
of ‘Positive Fashion’ aims at embedding sustainable fashion across all project levels: business,
education, digital/innovation, investment and reputation.
The strategy working committee is composed of members from all sectors of the industry
including high street retailers, such as Marks and Spencer. Instead of ‘reinventing the wheel’, the
BFC seeks to adopt, share and promote best practices. Caroline Rush commented that in general,
the difficulties lie in identifying companies that can stand up to the big players and deliver both
a strong design vision along with values of sustainability. The BFC helps address these issues
with a mentoring system that helps smaller companies develop their design focus whilst provide
support for sourcing and compliance issues. A recent example is designer Christopher Raeburn,
supported by the Estethica platform. In discussion with Giusy Bettoni, Caroline Rush explained
that the BFC can best help the broader market by sharing and promoting best practice and also
by identifying areas for improvement, for example in the implementation of sustainability rules.
Carlo CAPASA, declaring that “the future is sustainable”, made a strong claim for the essential
character of responsibility in fashion. He quoted industry figures according to which, two years
ago, 2% of buyers requested sustainable criteria; today, they are 30%. As a first step, the CNMI
has brought together ten major Italian fashion brands (Gucci, Prada, Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna,
Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo, OTB, Loro Piana, Staff International, Versace) which are working
together on a committee aimed at fixing common standards across the industry. The first subject
is the use of chemicals in fabrics: a study of textile manufacturers in Italy has been conducted
(results due in October 2015) and will be the basis of negotiations to create cross-industry
standards. It is of note that many manufacturers have already taken steps to address these issues,
for example, 27% of Première Vision exhibitors have a sustainable dimension. The CNMI’s next
steps will be to address the issues of chemicals in the production process, the origins of fabrics
and the social environment – factories, offices, and boutiques. By working with big brands, the
ambition is to set the example and create benchmarks for a virtuous circle that obliges other
actors to impose the same standards.
1SYNTHESIS REPORT SMART CONVERSATION
15-17 SEPTEMBRE 2015
Questions & Answers
After the panel presentations moderated by Giusy Bettoni, the audience was invited to ask questions
to all speakers. The questions were pertinent and direct: how do these different industry initiatives
fit in with existing actions (Greenpeace for example); have consumers reached a ‘tipping’ point
between price and values; are these new values at risk from economic downturn; why are these
initiatives only from a business perspective; can ‘responsibility’ really be applied to ‘fast fashion’;
should the Première Vision initiative be tougher by imposing sustainability criteria on exhibitors.
In response to these questions, the different panel members gave frank replies: the institutions
represented at the conference are committed to working with all other existing structures and
initiatives but feel that a fashion-specific approach, coming from the heart of the industry, is
necessary; that a new, sustainable business model and culture will take time to be adopted;
that a business perspective means that new values can be implemented throughout the whole
industry chain; that these values have already been present in the fashion sector for a long time,
irrespective of economic downturn; that high street and fast fashion actors are in fact key levers
for changing values and already involved in these industry initiatives (ex. Marks and Spencer in the
UK); that the point of the Smart Creation Première Vision program is to support and encourage
new values across the whole sector, not to single out individual actors.
Press PREMIÈRE VISION
Igor Robinet-Slansky
@ : [email protected]
T : +33 (0)1 70 38 70 30
P : +33 (0)6 42 06 31 02
#wearepremierevision
2e Bureau
Marie-Laure Girardon
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T : +33 (0)1 42 33 93 18