10256.00 JPM Paris Text 136pp.qxp

The history of Paris is related in its monuments and squares,
its sweeping boulevards and dank alleys, its chic boutiques
and raucous markets. In this guide we have divided the
sightseeing chapter into manageable segments, all easy to
visit on foot or by métro. For day-trips into the outskirts, take
the RER train.
Contents
Features
Children’s Paris
Soup for the soul
Going for a song
Food, glorious food
Paris on the screen
French bread
Maps
Versailles
Centre
Louvre-Opéra
Montmartre
Paris
Métro
26
33
55
75
88
110
99
130
132
133
fold-out
fold-out
Symbols:
Our favourites
f
Métro station
m
RER station
r
h Wheelchair access
cityLights.........................................5
cityPast ...........................................9
citySights.......................................19
The Islands and the Seine.......20
Latin Quarter ........................28
Saint-Germain,
Montparnasse.......................36
Invalides
and Eiffel Tower ....................46
Louvre and Palais Royal .........50
Halles, Marais .......................58
Bastille, Bercy, Belleville .........66
Grands Boulevards ................72
Champs-Elysées and
the West ...............................78
Montmartre
and the North .......................90
Around Paris .........................96
cityBites ......................................101
cityNights....................................113
cityFacts ......................................119
Index...........................................134
82
CITYSIGHTS
museum, and it only recently left Rue du Paradis for the elegant surroundings
of the former mansion of Marie-Laure de Noailles. Over a thousand objects
from past collections are displayed here, in a decor designed by Philippe Starck.
Fine pieces are sold in the shop, and there’s another boutique at 11, place de
la Madeleine (8th). • Daily (except Tues, Sun and public holidays) 10am–
6.30pm • 11, place des Etats-Unis (16th) m Kléber, Iéna
Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris (C3) Temporary exhibitions on
fashion through the ages, from the 18th century to the present day. • Closed
for renovation till early 2010 • Palais Galliéra, 10, av. Pierre Ier-de-Serbie
(16th) m Iéna r Pont de l’Alma h
Musée d’Art moderne de la Ville de Paris (C3) In the east wing of the
Palais de Toyko, 20th-century artworks: murals by Sonia and Robert Delaunay, Matisse, La Fée Electricité by Dufy, said to be the biggest painting in the
world. Temporary exhibitions. • Daily (except Mon and public holidays)
10am–6pm, Thurs to 10pm during temporary exhibitions. Free admission.
t01 53 67 40 00 • 11, av. du Président-Wilson (16th) m Iéna r Pont
de l’Alma
Palais de Tokyo (C3) Contemporary creations, including hands-on exhibits,
do-it-yourself graffiti, and so on. • Daily (except Mon) noon–midnight • 13,
av. du Président-Wilson (16th) m Iéna r Pont de l’Alma h
Palais de Chaillot and Esplanade du Trocadéro (C3) From the terrace of
the symmetrical 1930s “palace” the view stretches over the gardens and
fountains of the Trocadéro, through the arch of the tower and along the Champ
de Mars all the way to the elegant Ecole Militaire, with the golden dome of the
Invalides and the curving Y-shaped UNESCO building on the horizon. • Place du
Trocadéro (16th) m Trocadéro
Muséum national d’Histoire naturelle – Musée de l’Homme (C3)
Anthropological and prehistoric collections, tracing man’s evolution. • Closed
for renovation until 2012 • Palais de Chaillot, 17, place du Trocadéro (16th)
m Trocadéro h
CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES AND THE WEST
83
The area around Balzac’s house in rue Raynouard has a bucolic atmosphere.
Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine (C3) In the east wing of the Palais
de Chaillot, this is the largest centre devoted to architecture in the world. It
includes the Institut français d’architecture, the Ecole de Chaillot, and the
Musée des Monuments français, whose scale models of great monuments,
copies of sculpture, reproductions of wall paintings tell the story of French architecture from the Romanesque era to modern times. • Daily (except Tues and
some public holidays) 11am–7pm, Thurs to 9pm t01 58 51 52 00 • Palais
de Chaillot, east wing, 1, place du Trocadéro (16th) m Trocadéro
Musée national de la Marine (C3) The history of navigation and maritime
transport, fishing, the underwater world, daily life in the arsenals, and so on.
Scale models of ships, figureheads, paintings, ancient maps, sextants,
compasses and astrolabes and thousands of other nautical objects. • Daily
(except Tues, Jan 1, May 1) 10am–6pm t01 53 65 69 69 • Palais de
Chaillot, Passy wing, 17, place du Trocadéro (16th) m Trocadéro h
CityNights
The best way of finding out what’s on is
to invest €0.40 in the Pariscope or l’Officiel
des Spectacles, weekly listings magazines
with information on all the entertainment
that livens up Parisian nights. Pariscope has
an English supplement edited by Time Out,
with reviews, a rundown of the club scene
and information on events in English.
Tickets are usually put on sale two weeks
before opening night. Book seats through
your travel agent, your hotel concierge, at
Virgin Megastore, 52, av. des ChampsElysées, at the FNAC at Forum des Halles
(level –3), or at the venues themselves.
Half-price theatre tickets for performances
the same day are sold at Kiosque Théâtre,
Place de la Madeleine (Tues–Sat 12.30–
8pm). A commission is charged. Special
prices are available for children, students
(with International Student Card) and
senior citizens (over 60).
Theatres
114
Nightclubs
114
Jazz clubs and piano bars
115
Cabaret and café-théâtre
116
Concert halls and shows
117
134 INDEX
Allée des Brouillards 94
Antiques 41
Aquaboulevard 27
Arc de Triomphe 81, 86
Arènes de Lutèce 31
Au Lapin Agile 94
Au Nain Bleu 56
Avenue d’Iéna 86
– Junot 94
– Rapp 48
Banque de France 76
Basilique Notre-Dame des
Victoires 54
– du Sacré-Cœur 90
– Saint-Denis 93
– Sainte-Clotilde 42
Bateau-Lavoir 94
Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville
(BHV) 60
Belleville 17
Bercy Village 68
Berthillon 22–23
Bibliothèque nationale de
France 32
Bois de Boulogne 84
Bois-Préau 96
Bon Marché Rive gauche 42
Boulevard Haussmann 72
– du Montparnasse 44
– Raspail 44
– Saint-Germain 44
Bouquinistes 23
Boutique Maille 75
Bridges 23
Canal Saint-Martin 67
Carré Rive Gauche 40
Catacombes 43
Caviar Kaspia 75
Cemeteries, see Cimetière
Centre national d’Art
et de Culture Georges
Pompidou 26, 59-60, 64
Champ-de-Mars 26, 48
Champs-Elysées 79, 86
Château de Chantilly 97
– de Fontainebleau 98
– de Malmaison 96
– de Versailles 98
– de Vincennes 96
Churches, see Eglise
Cimetière
– de Montmartre 91
– du Montparnasse 43
– du Père-Lachaise 69
– Saint-Vincent 94
Cinémathèque française 68
Cité de l’Architecture et du
Patrimoine 83
– des Enfants 27
– des Sciences et de
l’Industrie 68–69
Cloître des Billettes 61
Concert halls 117
Conciergerie 21
Conservatoire Erik Satie 48
Cours Damoye 70
Deportation Memorial 24
Disneyland Resort Paris 96
Ecole Militaire 48
Eglise de l’Assomption 56
– de la Madeleine 72–3
– Saint-Etiennedu-Mont 30, 34
– Saint-Eustache 59, 64
– Saint-Germainl’Auxerrois 54
– Saint-Germaindes-Prés 39
– Saint-GervaisSaint-Protais 61
– Saint-Jean de
Montmartre 91
– Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre 29
– Saint-Louisen-l’Ile 21–22, 24
– Saint-Médard 34
– Saint-Merri 60, 64
– Saint-Pierre
de Montmartre 91
– Saint-Roch 56
– Saint-Séverin 29
– Saint-Sulpice 38
Eiffel Tower 47, 48, 86
Espace MontmartreSalvador Dali 91
Esplanade des Invalides 48
– du Trocadéro 82
Faubourg Saint-Antoine 68
Fauchon 74
Fondation Cartier 43
– Claude Monet 97
Fontaine Stravinsky 64
Forum des Halles 59, 64
Galerie Colbert 76
– de Montpensier 76
– de Valois 76
– Véro-Dodat 54, 76
– Vivienne 54, 76
Galeries nationales du
Grand Palais 79
Gardens, see Jardin(s)
Giverny 97
Golden Triangle 85
Grande Arche
de la Défense 85
Hédiard 74
Historial Charles de
Gaulle 46
Hôtel-Dieu 24
– de Mortagne 70
– national des Invalides 46
– de Noailles 56
– de Sens 63
– de Ville 60
Ilot CandieSaint-Bernard 70
Institut de France 40
– du Monde arabe 31
Jardin(s)
– d’Acclimatation 26, 85
– de Fleurs 64
– des Halles 26
– du Luxembourg 26, 37,
44
– des Plantes 32
INDEX 135
– sauvage St-Vincent 94
– Shakespeare 84
– du Trocadéro 86
– des Tuileries 52
Jazz clubs 115–116
Jeu de Paume
(site Concorde) 52
(site Sully) 62
Lafayette Gourmet 74
Le Bon Marché 42
Louvre des Antiquaires 53
Mairie du 18e
Arrondissement 94
Maison de Balzac 83–84
– du Chocolat 75
– européenne de la
Photographie 62
– de Victor Hugo 62
– de la Truffe 75
Marché d’Aligre 70
– Bastille 67
– Beauvau
Saint-Antoine 55, 70
– biologique 43, 55
– aux Fleurs 21, 24
– du Livre ancien
et d’occasion 55
– Maubert 31
– Mouffetard 31
– aux Oiseaux 21, 24
– Place de la Bourse 55
– aux Puces 93
– Saint-Germain 38–39
– Saint-Pierre 55
– aux Timbres 80
Marionnettes 26
Mémorial de la Shoah 63
Mobilier national –
Manufacture nationale
des Gobelins 32
Montmartre 92
Mosquée 31
Musée
Dapper 81
– d’Art américain 97
– d’Art moderne de la Ville
de Paris 82
– des Arts asiatiques –
Guimet 81
– des Arts décoratifs 51
– des Arts forains 68
– Auguste Rodin 42
– Baccarat 81-82
– des Beaux-Arts de la Ville
de Paris 79
– Bourdelle 43
– Carnavalet 61
– Cernuschi 80
– Cognacq-Jay 61
– Condé 98
– des Egouts 46
– Grévin 27, 74
– Gustave-Moreau 91
– de l’Homme 82-83
– Jacquemart-André 80–81
– de la Légion d’Honneur
et des Ordres de
Chevalerie 41
– du Luxembourg 38
– Maillol 41
– Marmottan-Monet 84
– de la Mode et
du Textile 51–52
– de la Mode de la Ville
de Paris 82
– de la Monnaie 40
– des Monuments
français 82
– de la Musique 69
– national Eugène
Delacroix 39–40
– – d’Histoire
naturelle 32, 82
– – du Louvre 50–51
– – de la Marine 83–84
– de Montmartre 91
– – du Moyen-Age 30
– Nissim de Camondo 80
– de l’Orangerie 52
– d’Orsay 40–41
–
–
–
–
du Parfum 73
Picasso 61
de la Publicité 51
du quai Branly 47
de la Sculpture en plein
air 31
– de la Vie romantique 91
– du Vin 84
– Vivant du Cheval 98
– Zadkine 38
Nécropole royale 93
Nicolas 74
Nightclubs 114–116
Notre-Dame de Paris 20, 24
Observatoire de Paris 38
Odéon 38
Pagode, La 42
Palais de Chaillot 82, 86
– de la Cité 21
– de la Découverte 27,
– 79–80
– Garnier 74
– de Justice 21, 24
– de Tokyo 82
Opéra national de Paris –
Palais Garnier 74
Palais-Royal 53–54, 76
Panthéon 30
Parc André-Citroën 47
– Astérix 96–97
– de Bagatelle 85
– de Belleville 69
– Monceau 80
– Montsouris 43
Paris Museum Pass 7
Paris Story 74
Passage du Caire 74
– l’Homme 70
Passerelle des Arts 23
– Solférino 23
Paul salon de thé 75
Piano bars 115–116
Pinacothèque de Paris 73
Place de la Bastille 66–67,
70
136 INDEX
–
–
–
–
–
–
–
–
Colette 76
de la Concorde 79
de la Contrescarpe 34
Dalida 94
Dauphine 21
d’Iéna 86
Igor-Stravinsky 60
du Marché
Saint-Honoré 56
– Marlène-Dietrich 86
– Maubert 34
– Saint-Michel 28–29, 34
– Saint-Sulpice 44
– du Tertre 91
– du Trocadéro 86
– Vendôme 52–53
– des Vosges 62, 64
Pont Alexandre III 23
– de l’Alma 23
– de l’Archevêché 23
– de la Concorde 23
– d’Iéna 23
– Mirabeau 23
– Neuf 23, 24
Promenade plantée 70
Puppet shows 26
Quai de l’Horloge 24
Quartier Saint-Séverin 29
Rollerblading 27
Rue Bonaparte 44
– de la Bûcherie 34
– de Charonne 70
– Fleurus 44
– du Four 44
– des Francs-Bourgeois 64
– de la Gaîté 43
– Hamelin 86
– de la Huchette 34
– de Lappe 70
– de la Montagne-SainteGeneviève 34
– Mont-Cenis 94
– Mouffetard 34
– de Rivoli 52, 56
– des Rosiers 61, 64
– Saint-Benoît 44
– Saint-Florentin 56
– Saint-Honoré 56
– Sainte-Croix de la
Bretonnerie 64
– Vavin 44
– Vieille du Temple 64
Saint-Germain-desPrés 37
Sainte-Chapelle 21, 24
Sentier 75
Shakespeare and Co 29
Société Générale 75
Sorbonne 30
Square Rapp 48
– Trousseau 70
– du Vert-Galant 21, 24
Stade de France 92, 117
Theatre tickets 115
Thermes de Cluny 30
Tour Jean sans Peur 59
– Montparnasse 42–43
– Saint-Jacques 60
Vaux-le-Vicomte 98
Verger de la Madeleine 75
Viaduc des Arts 68, 70
Vigne du
Clos-Montmartre 94
Village Saint-Paul 63
– suisse 47
General Editor Barbara Ender Features Jack Altman Research Marc Michel
Photo credits G. Minder pp. 4, 6, 8, 17, 26 (centre), 27 (bottom right), 33, 41, 63, 85 (top),
105, 106, 110, 111, 118; CORBIS/Dallas & John Heaton p. 7; hemis.fr/Jioux pp. 12–13;
/Renault p. 67; /Krinitz p. 112; Marc Michel pp. 14, 26 (bottom right), 53, 83, 85 (bottom),
103, 115, 129; M.-C. Peitrequin pp. 18, 23, 37,47 (bottom), 55, 75, 100, 102, 107, 108, 109;
Barbara Ender pp. 22, 39; © Disney p. 26 (bottom left); C. Huber p. 27; P. Claveirole p. 47
(top); istockphoto.com/texasmary p. 7, /Panosian p.114 (left), /Nguyen p.114( right);
Maud Mabillard p. 93; Lido p. 116 (bottom); R. Holzbachová p. 116 (top).
Maps: Elsner & Schichor; JPM Publications
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