Page references in italics indicate illustrations. Académie Colarossi

Transcription

Page references in italics indicate illustrations. Académie Colarossi
From Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism, by Mary E. David (University of California Press, 2006)
Index
Page references in italics indicate illustrations.
Académie Colarossi (Paris), 94–95
Académie Julian (Paris), 71
Académie Royale de Musique, 282n64
Acocella, Joan, 52
Action, 268n56
Adam, Paul, 135–36
Adieu, New York! (Auric), 215–16
Adorno, Theodor, 284n118
advertising, expansion of, 8
“The Aesthetic Upheaval in France” (E. Wilson, Jr.), 149, 269n62
Agri Cultura (Cato), 111, 112, 113
L’Aiglon (Rostand), 258n11
Aladin perfume, 36, 37
“Alexander’s Ragtime Band” (Berlin), 124, 145
Alex’s Castle (E. Wilson, Jr.), 149
Alice in Wonderland (Carroll), 114–15
“A L’Oasis” (Marty), 219
Alvin, Jeanne, 268n59
Amédée (Paris), 102
American Committee for Devastated France, 206, 280n14
American Monthly Review of Reviews, 213
American music, 141–45, 148, 149
“American Painters of Women,” 208
American press, 129–33. See also specific publications
“Am I Early” (Lepape), 54, 55
ancien régime style, 219
androgyny, 163
The Angora Ox (Satie), 106
Ansermet, Ernest, 170, 191
Antheil, George: Ballet mécanique, 117
Antigone (Sophocles), 194
Antigone adaptation (Chanel, Cocteau, Honegger, and Picasso), 194–97, 196
“Les Apaches,” 114
Apollinaire, Guillaume, 95, 104, 128, 147, 279n1
Après le subisme (Ozenfant and Jeanneret), 105
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From Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism, by Mary E. David (University of California Press, 2006)
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L’Aquarelle-Mode, 10
The Arabian Nights, 34
Aristotle, 112
Arlequinade perfume, 37
Armide (ballet), 52
Arnoux, Guy, 44
art and fashion, 22–23, 34–35, 49, 51, 54–56, 62, 101, 252
Art Deco, 57, 254
L’Art d’Être Jolie, 258n43
Art et Décoration: on Poiret, 34; Steichen’s photographs for, 73, 73, 75, 262n34; Lucien
Vogel as editor-in-chief of, 49
L’Art Musical, 14
Art Nouveau movement, 260n48
“The Art of Dress” (Cornu), 34
art of the sophisticated commonplace, 197
Astruc, Gabriel, 17–18, 94
Astruc, Marcel, 50–51
Astruc, Yvonne, 115–16
Le Astuzie feminili (Cimarosa), 187
Atanasiou, Genica, 195, 196
Atelier Martine, 34–35, 36
Aubert, 92; “La Vie champêtre,” 263n49
“Au clair de la lune,” 87
Auric, Georges, 95, 100, 268n58; Adieu, New York! 215–16; at the Bal des Jeux, 229; critical
reception of, 211; Les Fachêux, 197, 254; Les Mariées de la Tour Eiffel, 197, 246; ParisSport, 218. See also Les Six
Avant-dernières pensées (Satie), 95–96, 108, 110, 113
avant-garde, 96, 97. See also Satie, Erik
Bacchic rituals, 42
Bach, Johann Sebastian, 274n100; “Herr Gott, dich loben alle wir,” 69, 71
“Le Bain de mer” (C. Martin), 77–78, 80, 80–81
Bakst, Léon: Ballets Russes–inspired fashion collection of, 22; Caryathis poster by, 217,
217; colors used by, 31; “Philomèle,” 60–61, 62; Sleeping Princess costumes by, 239,
248–49
Balanchine, George, 174
Bal Baroque, 230–34, 231, 234, 239
Balboa, Vasco Núñez de, 134
Le Balcon perfume, 36–37
From Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism, by Mary E. David (University of California Press, 2006)
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Bal des Jeux, 227–29, 228–29, 230
Baliyev, Nicholai, 240, 242
Ballet mécanique (Antheil), 117
ballets at court, 42
Ballets Russes: American tour of, 171–72, 174, 210, 272n59; Armide, 52; audience for,
16–17, 52, 128–29, 235; Les Biches, 154, 197, 278n175; La Boutique fantasque, 180,
274n99; Carnaval, 52; and Chanel, 168, 179 (see also Le Train bleu); Chout, 225;
Cléopâtre, 33, 52; and Cocteau, 94; Le Coq d’or, 54; criticism of, 19; Cuadro flamenco,
225–26; Daphnis et Chloé, 52; decline during WWI, 168; Diaghilev as impresario of,
15–16, 33; Le Dieu bleu, 52; elitism of, 119; Les Fachêux, 197; finances of, 171, 235, 249,
272n59; The Firebird, 171; La Gazette du Bon Ton on, 52–57, 55–56; Jeux, 53; L’Aprèsmidi d’un faune, 52; Le Mariage de la Belle au Bois dormant, 234–35; Midas, 54; Midnight
Sun, 117–18; in Monaco, 249; in Monte Carlo, 249–50, 252, 254; Narcisse, 52; Les
Noces, 171, 179, 180–81, 250–52, 253, 278n175; Les Orientales, 33; Petrouchka, 117–18,
171, 175; Petroushka, 52; popularity of, 15, 22, 52, 225; press coverage of/publicity
for, 15–19, 18–19, 21; programs for, 17–18, 18; Pulcinella, 174–78, 238, 246;
retrospective classicism of, 238; Russian season of 1922, 235, 236–37, 240–43;
Salomé, 18, 53; Schéhérazade, 33, 46, 52; The Sleeping Princess, 235, 238–40, 248–49,
252; The Song of the Nightingale, 174; Les Sylphides, 117–18; at the Théâtre GaîtéLyrique, 224–26; Le Train bleu, 178n174, 197–201, 198–99; Vanity Fair on, 171–72;
Vogue on, 224–26, 235, 237. See also Mavra; Parade; Le Renard; The Rite of Spring
Balsan, Etienne, 155–56
“Les Bals des 4 Bendredis de Mai,” 223–24, 282n62
Balzac, Honoré de, 256n20, 270n16; “Treatise on the Elegant Life,” 9, 256n23
Barbier, Georges, 54–55
bar-dancings, 218, 281n48
Bar Gaya (Paris), 282n53
Bartók, Béla, 181
“Battick” (design by Poiret, photograph by Steichen), 73, 75, 262n34
Baudelaire, Charles, 9
The Bear at the Moulin Rouge (Severini), 124, 125
Beaton, Cecil, 48, 52, 133
Beau Brummels of the Brush, 55, 57, 71, 85. See also Barbier, Georges; Brissaud, Pierre;
Martin, Charles; Marty, André; Monvel, Bernard Boutet de
Beaumont, Edith, Countess de, 226, 227, 228–29, 232, 282n73. See also Beaumont Balls
Beaumont, Etienne, Count de, 94, 95, 220, 226, 228–29, 232, 278n169, 279n1; Trois pages
dansées, 202–3, 204, 279n2. See also Beaumont Balls
Beaumont Balls, 226–34, 228–29
Beaux, Ernest, 164
Beer, 135
From Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism, by Mary E. David (University of California Press, 2006)
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Beethoven, Ludwig van, 14, 39; “Twelve Variations on a Russian Dance from
Wranitsky’s Das Waldmädchen,” 187
Bel Ami, 156
Bell, Clive, 133
La Belle Assemblée, 7, 8–9
Belle Epoque gowns, 208–9
La Belle excentrique (Caryathis and Satie), 216–18, 217
Belline, Ira (Irina Belyakin), 241
Bel Respiro (Garches), 170, 179
Benchley, Robert, 133
Benito, Eduardo, 1, 2, 205, 220, 279n7
Benois, 239
Bentley, Alys E., 143
Bérain, Jean, 4, 256n11
Bergson, Henri, 102
Berlin, Irving: “Alexander’s Ragtime Band,” 124, 145; “That Mysterious Rag,” 124–27,
126–27
Bernays, Edward, 172, 272n61
Bernhardt, Sarah, 24, 37, 258n11
Biarritz (Basque coast), 160–61
Les Biches (Laurencin, Nijinska, and Poulenc), 154, 197, 278n175
Bidou, Henri, 49–50, 260n9
Bizet, George: “L’Escarpolette,” 88, 89; Jeux d’enfants, 87–89, 88, 187; Petite suite
d’orchestre, 87–88; “Quatre coins,” 90, 91
Bizet, René, 1, 163
Black and White Ball, 224, 282n62
“The Blacksmith and His Son,” 189–90
blague, 265n35
Blanc, François, 285n132
Blanche, Jacques-Emile: Portrait of Les Six, 98, 100
Blum, Lise-Léon, 51–52, 53–54, 261n14
Blum, René, 51–52
Blume, Mary, 249
bobbed hairstyle, 163, 271n33
Boccherini, Luigi, 39
Le Boeuf sur le toit (ballet; Cocteau and Milhaud), 190, 197, 211, 215–16, 220, 221
Le Boeuf sur le toit (nightclub, Paris), 220–23, 222, 282n53
Bois de Boulogne, 65, 67, 139, 226
Boismortier, Jacques Bodin de: Diane et Actéon, 42
Bois sacré, 37