Emprunts et distincti - Association d`anthropologie méditerranéenne

Transcription

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4
Ateliers / Workshop
CULTURE MATÉRIELLE
ET SYSTÈME DE REPRÉSENTATIONS
MATERIAL CULTURE
AND EXPRESSIVE ELABORATION
THÈME 4 :
Emprunts et distinctions culturelles
à travers les comportements alimentaires
et la gestion du vivant
Conflict Views on managing Life
207
Entres autres / Among others
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Emprunts et distinctions culturelles à travers les comportements alimentaires
Atelier 1
Particularisme et standardisation dans les cultures alimentaires
European products : Distinctiveness and standardisation in food cultures
4-1.3
Thème 4
15/04/04
Les transformations du fromage : changements techniques
et gestion de la tradition dans la production fromagère en
Grèce,
Evangelos KARAMANES, Centre de Recherches du Folklore Hellénique,
Académie d’Athènes (Grèce)
Plusieurs fromages dits traditionnels se fabriquent toujours en Grèce dans le
cadre domestique mais aussi industriel et connaissent un succès parmi les
consommateurs. Partant des données que nous avons recueilli sur le terrain en
Macédoine occidentale et en Thessalie ainsi que dans la bibliographie
spécialisée nous examinons la transformation des techniques de préparation de
ces fromages. En étudiant les chaînes opératoires suivant lesquelles le lait se
transformait en divers produits laitiers dans le cadre traditionnel nous réalisons
que les producteurs (éleveurs de bétail où fromagers) disposaient d’un éventail
des choix techniques pour fabriquer un certain fromage. Leur objectif était
souvent la production de plusieurs produits en traitant successivement les sousproduits du lait.
Le traitement et les significations de la notion du “fromage traditionnel”
doivent être mis en parallèle avec les pratiques respectées par les fromageries
afin de se conformer aux normes de l’UE.
THE
TRANSFORMATIONS OF CHEESE
:
TECHNICAL CHANGES AND THE MANAGEMENT OF
- Many so-called traditional cheeses in
Greece are produced in domestic setting as well as industrial one, and both have a
great deal of success among consumers. Based on data gathered through fieldwork
in Western Macedonia and in Thessaly, and through the analysis of specialized
literature, I examine the transformation in the techniques of preparing these cheeses.
By studying the traditional stages of production through which milk is transformed
into different dairy products, we see that producers (livestock breeders or cheesemakers) have a range of technical choices at their disposal for manufacturing a given
cheese. Their goal is often the production of several products by treating the byproducts of milk in succession. With the aim of drawing some conclusions regarding
the treatment and meanings of the notions of “traditional cheese”, I compare these
practices to techniques which the cheese-makers follow today in order to adhere to
EU norms.
TRADITION IN GREEK CHEESE PRODUCTION
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Atelier 1
Potato and Tomato in Sardinia, Traditional Production
and Consumption, and the Rules of the Global Market,
La pomme de terre et la tomate en Sardaigne,
production, consommation traditionnelles et règles du
marché global
Alessandra GUIGONI, Università di Cagliari (Italie)
4
My paper is focused on the present and the potential future of some Sardinian
products within the frameworks of the traditional agro-food system, the
policies of the EU and the pressures of the global Market.
In particular I will examine the role of horticulture in some local communities
and the aggressive politics of the Market that are going to change the Sardinian
agro-food system profoundly.
The products taken in consideration in this paper are potato and tomato: local
communities still produce traditional foods based on tomato and potato (such
as pibarda de tamata, cohone kun fozza), old men and women continue to
cultivate their gardens and the younger generation attempts to obtain EU
certifications for tomato and potato, such as the IGP and IGT. In this, they
receive assistance from both the regional government (Regione Autonoma
della Sardegna) and the Italian state. However, in the meantime, old varieties
of tomatoes and potatoes have already disappeared, and some products and
production systems are about to evaporate or to become standardized in spite
of local efforts to preserve their distinctiveness.
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Atelier 1
4-1.5
Thème 4
15/04/04
Outlaws or Conforming to EU Policies? Food and the
Tactics and Strategies of Greek Identities,
Conformes ou non-conformes aux réglements européens?
Les produits alimentaires et les stratégies des identités
grecques,
Eleftheria DELTSOU, Department of History, Archaeology and Social
Anthropology, University of Thessaly, Volos (Grèce)
The EU is often seen as a force, even as a threat, that may lead to the
homogenization of the national cultures of its member states. The question of
the cultural particularity of the different member states and the question of
their future development will be discussed in this paper by focusing on
different reactions that European Union guidelines and programs triggered in
Greece. ”We’ll become outlaws” was heard some time ago concerning the
banning of the ”traditional” kokoretsi meat dish, an EU prohibition that came
as a consequence of the mad cow disease. At the same time, a continuously
growing number of female rural cooperatives get funded by EU programs to
produce foodstuff on the basis of their ”traditionality”.
The paper will discuss aspects of Greek identity that are implicit or explicit in
these two cases and how the EU both suppresses and promotes distinctiveness,
while it provides the arena in which local, national, gender and class identities
are constructed, relate to and interact with each other.
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Atelier 1
New Wineries in Cyprus : aspects of tradition, or facets
of European entrepreneurial innovation ? Nouveaux vins
à Chypre: reflets de la tradition ou reflets de l'innovation
entrepreneuriale européenne,
Anne JEPSON, University of Edinburgh (GB)
4
Up until relatively recently, the wine industry in Cyprus was dominated by four
large producers. It was not marketed widely abroad, except as ‘sherry’. Now,
however, there are a growing number of small family wine producers, using the
most up to date technology and equipment. There is a strong entrepreneurial
spirit on the island, and modern methods and foreign grape varieties are being
mixed with local ones to produce a range of excellent wines. The market for
them is still predominantly local, but their publicity and presentation is
confident and of high quality. Much of it is emblematic of a typically Cypriot
appeal to ancient mythology, tradition and the long and individual history of
wine production the island. Vines are the predominant crop in the Pafos
region, although many vineyards stand abandoned.
It appears that these new wines will be part of what culturally defines Cyprus
within the EU. All stress the value of the unique, ‘ancient’ local grape varieties,
and also the innovation that has been used in linking them to the well-known
varieties such as ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’ and ‘Chardonnay’. This paper will
examine the extent to which these wines and wine growers are prepared, and
how self-conscious that preparation is, in creating wine as a facet of cultural
identity within the EU.
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Atelier 1
4-1.7
Thème 4
15/04/04
Normes d’hygiène, normes de fabrication et protection de
l’origine des productions locales : le mariage impossible,
Delphine BALVET, Laurence BERARD, Philippe MARCHENAY, CNRS,
Unité mixte de recherche Eco-anthropologie et ethnobiologie, Bourg-enBresse (France)
Aujourd’hui, les productions locales et traditionnelles sont fortement investies dans les
différents Etats de l’Union européenne. Leur localisation géographique, leur profondeur
historique et le fait qu’elles reposent sur des savoir-faires partagés leur communiquent
une spécificité, que l’on cherche à valoriser. Mais paradoxalement, alors que sont mises
en place des actions de promotion et des règlements de protection de l’origine
géographique (AOP, IGP), les normes d’hygiène et les normes de fabrication posent
problème et constituent des points de blocage. En effet, leur application s’avère souvent
incompatible avec le maintien de la spécificité des produits, elle va même jusqu’à
constituer une entrave à leur existence. En France, nombre de professionnels de
l’alimentation (producteurs agricoles, artisans, restaurateurs, etc.) témoignent des
difficultés à répondre à ces obligations contraignantes. Beaucoup ne peuvent s’y
soumettre, devant les difficultés techniques et financières qu’elles entraînent et pensent
que les produits risquent de se banaliser. D’autres acceptent, mais au prix de
modifications plus ou moins perturbantes. Au-delà de l’usage immodéré que notre
société fait de l’image de ces productions, la question est de savoir si leur dimension
culturelle est réellement compatible avec leur circulation au sein de la société marchande
telle qu’elle s’organise actuellement.
HYGIENIC AND MANUFACTURING NORMS AND THE PROTECTION OF THE ORIGIN OF
LOCAL PRODUCTS: AN IMPOSSIBLE MARRIAGE - Today, various States of the European
Union are heavily investing in local and traditional products. These countries seek
to value such products for a specificity which is endowed by their geographic
location, their historical depth and by the fact that their producer rely on shared
know-how. Paradoxically, however, now that promotional actions and rules for the
protection of geographic origin (aop, igp) have been established, hygienic and
manufacturing norms pose a problem and create obstacles. In effect, their
application often turns out to be incompatible with the maintenance of products’
specificity, even to the point of constituting a hindrance to their existence. In france,
numerous food professionals (agricultural producers, craftsmen, restaurateurs, etc.)
bear witness to the difficulty of conforming to these constraining obligations. Many
of these professionals cannot to the norms them because of the technical and
financial difficulties entailed, and because of the perception that their products risk
to become commonplace. Others accept the norms, but at the price of more or less
disruptive modifications. Aside from the excessive use our society makes of the
image of these products, the question is one of knowing if their cultural dimension
is really compatible with their circulation in market society as currently organized.
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Atelier 1
Growing small – Centralisation and differentiation in
Scandinavian dairy business, Prospérer à petite échelle centralisation et différenciation dans le secteur laitier
scandinave,
Håkan JÖNSSON, Dept of European Ethnology, Lund University, Lund
(Suède)
4
There has been an increasing demand for organic, small-scale and regionally
produced products throughout Europe the last decades. At the same time, the
rationalization and centralization in food business has continued. Will the
concentration to fewer and larger units of production continue, or can new
possibilities for small rural food companies emerge in the age of the New
Economy? The paper is trying to address this question through a comparative
study of two small dairy companies in Scandinavia, one Danish and one
Swedish.
The fate of the two companies, one successfully taking market shares while the
other has been bought up and shut down by the dominating dairy company in
the region, gives material for a discussion of when and how smallness can be a
competitive advantage and when it is not. The ethnographic data shows that
smallness cannot be seen as an entity determined by the size of the company,
but as something the companies must produce in various ways. In this
production of smallness, the actual smallness of the company can sometimes
be more of a problem than an advantage.
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Atelier 2
Interferences locales et globales entre santé, identité et biomédecine
Local-Global Entanglements in Health, Identity, and Biomedicine
LOCAL-GLOBAL ENTANGLEMENTS IN HEALTH, IDENTITY,
AND BIOMEDICINE, INTERFÉRENCES LOCALES ET GLOBALES
ENTRE SANTÉ, IDENTITÉ ET BIOMÉDECINE,
4-2 intro
Thème 4
Stefan BECK, Department of European Ethnology, Humboldt University
Berlin, Berlin (Allemagne)
Biomedicine, genetics and public health regimes are increasingly shaping
medical practices on a transnational scale. In addition, by means of defining
“patient rights”, informational rules, and “best practices”, transnational
bioethical guidelines – as formulated e.g. by the EU in the Oviedo-Protocol
(1997) – redefine medical interactions between patients and physicians as well
as between citizens and public health care systems. Moreover, data generated
by population genetics, genetic testing or epidemiology have the power to
establish new “genetic relationships” or to irritate the “imagined
communities” of nations and ethnic groups by privileging biology over culture.
The workshop invites field work-based case studies with a focus on both
shores of the Mediterranean area, focussing on biomedical effects on
vernacular notions and practices of kinship, health, the body, and collective
and individual identities in historical, contemporary, and comparative
perspectives.
La biomédecine, la génétique et les régimes de santé publique façonnent de plus en
plus les pratiques médicales à un niveau supranational. De plus, à cause de
l’émergence des “droits du patient”, des règles informatives et des “meilleures
pratiques”, des règles supranationales de bioéthique – telles que celles formulées par
exemple par les États-unis dans le Protocole d’Oviedo (1997) – redéfinissent les
relations médicales entre les patients et les praticiens, autant qu’entre les citoyens et
les systèmes de sécurité sociale. Plus encore, les informations générées par la
génétique des populations, par l’expérimentation génétique ou l’épidémiologie ont
le pouvoir d’établir des nouvelles “relations génétiques” ou d’égratigner les
“communautés imaginaires” que sont la nation ou le groupe ethnique en
privilégiant le biologique par rapport au culturel. L’atelier invite à travailler sur des
études fondées sur des cas pratiques, ciblées sur les deux rives de la Méditerranée, et
plus particulièrement sur les effets de la biomédecine sur les pratiques et les notions
vernaculaires de parenté, de santé, de relation au corps ainsi que sur les identités
collectives et individuelles dans une perspective comparative historique et
contemporaine.
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4-2.1
Thème 4
Atelier 2
The Information on Xenotransplantation
in a Cross Border Perspective, L'information sur la
xénotransplantation dans un contexte transfrontalier,
Markus IDVALL, Department of European Ethnology, Lund University,
Lund (Suède)
4
At the end of the 1990s the biomedicial development of xenotransplantation
(transplantation across species borders) was stopped in several European
countries because of the discovery that animal virus may spread to humans
through clinical transplants.
My aim is to discuss the position of the medical researchers in this process of
virus debates and scientific standstill. The analysis will be based on a number
of in-depth interviews done with Swedish and Italian researchers between 1999
and 2002.
The virus alarm turned the information on xenotransplantation into a key
matter for the scientific community. Mass media became an important arena of
scientific campaigning for what was seen as the correct information on the
state of affairs. The informational strategies did, however, also include the
everyday life contacts that the researchers had with hospital staff, research
colleagues, industrial entrepreneurs etc.
The case of xenotransplantation will thus be seen as an example of how
different practices of power and resistance take form in relation to varying
scales of knowledge diffusion.
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Atelier 2
4-2.2
Thème 4
Blindness : Cultural and incorporeal productions
of a condition, La cécité: productions culturelles et
incorporelles d'une condition,
Bruno Daniel Gomes DE SENA MARTINS,
I propose to analyze the symbolic violence resulting from the cultural and
political marginalization of the narratives of blind persons, particularly in a
tentative to grasp how those narratives are subsumed in a “personal tragedy
narrative”.
Focusing on blindness, indubitably an important sensorial limitation, this
space aims to formulate and reflect on the the multiple questionings that this
issue raises, taking as a central reference the persuasion about the persistence
and vitality of a “personal tragedy narrative” (Oliver, 1990). This narrative is
identified and unveiled here as a conceptual base in the production and
reproduction of an insidious social imagery on blindness and blind persons.
Grounded in an ethnographic experience with the Associação dos Cegos e
Amblíopes de Portugal (ACAPO), I propose to evaluate the implications
resulting from the vitality of that hegemonic grammar. A grammar which is
hardly sensitive to the lives and the reflexivity of blind persons, particularly, in
the way it succeeds operating as a regime of truth by the economic, social and
political constraints it imposes. Instigated by the powerful disparity emerging
from here, I set out to experience and grasp what is there of empowerment and
resistance in the associative discourse of blind people. With the support of a
white cane, the epistemological route that I propose to take seeks to introduce
the inescapable pertinence of the incorporeal character of every experience as
an extension of a cultural grounding of the physical body. In the Portuguese
context it is analyzed the intimate relation established between the cultural and
political marginalization of the personal narratives of blind persons, and the
pertinence assumed by intersubjective projection of blindness as one of the
most feared conditions. In this way, the capacity for imaginative projection is
to be considered as a vital cognitive faculty, in what is understood as an
erroneous emphatic identification, largely contributing to the inculcation of the
ideas of inability and hopelessness in the lives of blind persons.
Particular emphasis is attributed to the way some corporal differences were reinvested and objectified by modernity as pathological conditions by the
structure consolidated in the emergent biomedic paradigm. Finally It is
analysed how this paradigm came to inform the “rehabilitative approach” on
disabilities, and the political movements raised against its insidious power.
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Atelier 1
EUROPEAN
PRODUCTS
: DISTINCTIVENESS
AND STANDARDISATION IN FOOD CULTURES,
PARTICULARISME
ALIMENTAIRES,
ET STANDARDISATION DANS LES CULTURES
Gisela WELZ, Institute of Cultural Anthropology and European Ethnology,
Johann Wolfgang Goethe University Frankfurt (Allemagne)
“The implementation of EU guidelines for consumer health and food safety as
well as agricultural and environmental policy effects a standardisation of legal
frameworks in food production. This intervention process has placed many
traditional food products distinctive to local and regional cultures under
threat. At the same time, the traditionality of local and regional cuisines turns
into a competitive asset both economically and in terms of the assertion of
cultural identities, resulting in struggles over the ownership of culinary
heritage. The workshop presents field work-based case studies with a focus on
the Mediterranean area and allows for comparisons of EU member states with
accession candidate countries”.
4
La mise en œuvre de directives pour la santé des consommateurs et la sécurité
alimentaire de la part de la Communauté Européenne ainsi que plus généralement
la politique agricole et environnementale ont comme résultat une standardisation
des normes légales concernant la production alimentaire. Ce processus
d’intervention menace de nombreux produits alimentaires traditionnels. En même
temps les cuisines traditionnelles régionales ou de terroir se sont transformées en un
enjeu sur le plan économique ainsi que sur le plan de la revendication d’identités
culturelles et peuvent mener jusqu’aux conflits concernant la propriété d’un
patrimoine culinaire particulier. L’atelier invite à proposer des études de terrain
axées sur le bassin méditerranéen. Des recherches permettant de faire des
comparaisons avec d’autres pays membres de la Communauté européenne ou des
États candidats à l’intégration seront particulièrement bienvenues.
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Atelier 1
4-1.1
Thème 4
15/04/04
Home grown: Food debates in Istrian rural tourism,
Débat autour de l'alimentation dans le tourisme vert
en Istrie,
Daniel Winfree PAPUGA, Department of Economics, Oslo University
College (Norvège)
Istrian "agro-tourism" facilities aim to serve traditional cuisine to guests (who
come primarily from Germany, Austria and Italy). Gastronomy is considered
part of the region’s cultural heritage, and local Croatian tourist authorities
have worked out strict guidelines concerning food authenticity. In order for a
facility to keep it’s license, a certain percentage of products must be "home
grown", and non-traditional foods are forbidden. However, health authorities
and tourism authorities don’t see quite eye to eye on which standards should
pertain for these facilities. This paper analyses how discourses of
"authenticity" contra "health" contribute to the shaping of tourism in the
region. Does the protection of guests entail the modification of cultural
heritage?
4
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4-1.2
Thème 4
Atelier 1
La cuisine danoise : quel enjeu pour l’identité nationale ?
Regard anthropologique,
Anne-Elène DELAVIGNE, Laboratoire Eco-anthropologie, Muséum
National d'Histoire Naturelle, Paris (France)
4
La décennie 90 voit dans toute l’Europe la remise en cause des orientations agricoles
d’après-guerre et la requalification de filières agricoles en filières “de qualité”. Dans
tous les pays du sud de l’Europe, ce mouvement s’accompagne, entre autre, de la
promotion des productions locales ou traditionnelles. Ceux-ci mettent en avant un lien
à un territoire spécifique, situent l’aliment dans une histoire (plus ou moins) longue et
comme le résultat d’un savoir-faire particulier. Dans le contexte de la
“patrimonialisation” des productions alimentaires et agricoles locales en Europe,
l’exemple danois n’est-il pas paradoxal ? Dans ce pays, cette demande de produits
agricoles “de qualité”, née dans les pays du sud de l’Europe, ébranle profondément une
représentation jusqu’alors consensuelle du secteur agricole intensif.
Le discours de gastronomes, restaurateurs ou journalistes culinaires, insiste sur son rôle
paradoxal dans l’évolution du modèle alimentaire et culinaire danois. Celui-ci est l’objet
d’interrogations, voire de critiques fortes et défini par défaut, comme une “absence de
culture culinaire”. Cette absence est aujourd’hui, et c’est nouveau, vécue comme un
manque. On assiste cependant à l’émergence d’une “personnalité culinaire” centrée sur
une conception propre de la notion de produit de qualité où domine l’aspect sanitaire.
Par cette communication basée sur notre terrain de thèse, nous souhaitons apporter un
point de vue comparatiste et issu d’un pays nord européen, de culture protestante, au
débat sur les productions alimentaires régionales.
ARE THE STAKES FOR NATIONAL IDENTITY? AN
- The 1990s throughout Europe witnessed the overhauling
of post-War agricultural orientations and the transformation of agricultural sectors
into “quality” sectors. In all countries of Southern Europe, this movement was
accompanied by the promotion of local or traditional products. National publicity
asserted the products’ connection to a specific territory, portraying the foods as part
of a (more or less) long history and as the result of a particular know-how. The
production of heritage in Denmark went paradoxical ways in the European context
of food production: the Southern European demand of “quality products”
destabilizes a representation of the Danish agriculture based on intensive
production. The discourse of food experts, restaurateurs and food writers insists on
its paradoxical role in the evolution of the Danish food and culinary model. This
model is the object of discussion, even sharp critiques, and is defined by default as
an “absence of culinary culture.” Today, this absence – unlike in the past – is
regarded as a lack. However, we are witnessing the emergence of a “culinary
character” centered an indigenous conception of quality product. Here the aspect
of health is dominant. Based on fieldwork, I intend to bring a comparative point of
view to the debate on regional food production by introducing a perspective from
Northern Europe.
DANISH
CUISINE
:
WHAT
ANTHROPOLOGICAL VIEW
210

Emprunts et distincti - Association d`anthropologie méditerranéenne

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