An Expedition to the Hudson Bay Lowlands
Transcription
An Expedition to the Hudson Bay Lowlands
Photo Essay by Ron Ridout Special Report by Jon McCracken W e got the call late last winter. Don Sutherland, zoologist for the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources' Natural Heritage Information Centre (OMNR-NHIC) was assembling a six-person crew of volunteers to spend two weeks this summer on the Hudson Bay lowlands, gathering information for the Ontario Breeding Bird Atlas. It was an exceptional opportunity, and Ron Ridout and I (both of Bird Studies Canada) jumped at the chance, as did Marty Obbard (OMNR's provincial bear biologist), Colin Jones (NHIC biologist), and Peter Burke (free-lance biologist and wildlife artist). Our destination was as far north as you can get in Ontario – the Pen Islands region, tucked into the province's extreme northwestern corner on Hudson Bay, right next to the Manitoba border. The nearest community is Fort Severn, about 100 kilometres to the southeast. A large colony of about 8000 pairs of Snow Geese, and exceptional numbers of migrating Black Scoters, Hudsonian Godwits, and Red Knots, help make the region a globally Important Bird Area. Relatively little is known about the region's summer bird life, however, so our mission was to survey a land area that encompassed some 200 square kilometres. No problem. After months of careful planning, the team rendezvoused on 21 June in Peterborough, ON, before driving 9 hours north to Timmins. The next morning, we loaded about 550 kilograms of gear into an OMNR Twin Otter and flew north to Moosonee on the James Bay coast. From there, we flew northwest to Peawanuck for refuelling. Before long, we were over the Pen Islands region. Down below, Hudson Bay was still almost completely frozen over. The pilot quickly sized things up and 4 BIRDWATCH CANADA American Golden-Plover/Pluvier bronzé expertly plunked us down on a suitable gravel ridge about 7 kilometres from the coast and about the same distance to the tree line. Perfect! Home Sweet Home We were greeted by sweeping, open vistas filled with life and adventure as far as the eye and imagination could see. Before nightfall, we had established base camp on one of the many long, narrow ridges that run through the coastal region. Only a metre or so high, these ancient beach ridges are firm and dry, and carpeted with a thin layer of lichens, moss, and rhododendron. More expansive wet, sedge-grass meadows, ponds, and small lakes lay between the ridges. A few narrow creeks wound through One of the very few Stilt Sandpiper nests ever documented in Ontario. Un des très rares nids de Bécasseau à échasses trouvé en Ontario. the area. Small pockets of stunted spruce trees, seldom standing more than 4 metres high, were scattered along the edges of the ridges. Somewhat taller trees were concentrated along creek margins and back in the tree line. About 2 kilometres from camp, a massive boulder – a relic from the last Ice Age – towered 4 metres high in the otherwise featureless landscape. Photo: Marty Obbard An Expedition to the Hudson Bay Lowlands flannel shirt, thermal t-shirt, jeans, long johns (sometimes two pairs), two pairs of socks, insulated hiking boots, and a toque. Humour also helps warm the spirit. There was a lot of laughter in our camp. In wide, open spaces like this, your sense of perspective becomes distorted. Things were either much farther away than they appeared, or vice versa. Mirages were also common. From camp, small pressure ridges of ice out on Hudson Bay often looked like huge, snow-swept mountain ranges. At this latitude, the sun set at about 11:30 p.m. and was up again before 4:30 a.m. An eerie twilight gave way to true darkness for only about an hour each night. Field Work and Play From the moment we touched down, we felt like modern day explorers. Fuelled by a constant stream of new discoveries and situations, every day found us giddy FEATURE powered a laptop computer and battery charger. A shallow latrine was dug outside the perimeter and fitted with a bucket (and seat!). A three-sided tarp wall provided privacy and acted as a welcome windbreak. Owing to a fibre-rich diet, there was often a morning line up for the facilities. Good food and lots of it are essential for field camp morale. Colin prepared exceptionally delicious and hearty dinners nightly over the propane camp stove. We ate well and we ate lots. Drinking water was fetched from a nearby shallow pond in canvas bags, and then hand-pumped through a ceramic filter to remove all potential pathogens. None of us got sick. As for bathing and shaving – forget about it! SPECIAL REPORT When we arrived, snowdrifts lay here and there in sheltered areas, and many of the lakes were still partially ice covered. Likewise, plant life was very obviously weeks behind the normal seasonal progression. In fact, it was not until towards the end of our stay that rhododendrons finally started to bloom, and shrubs began to leaf out. Summer was unusually late. Our base camp was modest, but efficient and comfortable. A large, canvas “wall tent” (suspended from a wooden frame that Marty expertly lashed together with rope) served as the kitchen, dining room, storage area, meeting room, and office. We snored our nights away in personal pup tents. With the arrival of summer on the Study Area Manitoba Parasitic Jaeger/Labbe parasite Our meeting tent also served as kitchen, dining room, and office. La tente où l’on tenait nos réunions servait également de cuisine, de salle à manger et de bureau. Quebec Weather, Weather Everywhere Ontario Hudson Bay coast, we were keenly aware of the safety concerns posed by marauding polar bears. To provide warning, a delicate trip-wire was strung around the camp perimeter and hooked up to a loud alarm system. A small, gas-powered generator On a few balmy days, the thermometer hit the plus side of 20 o C. However, temperatures all too often refused to budge beyond single digit values, and usually dipped below freezing at night. The Hudson Bay coast is a wind-swept region. Sustained gales (60-80 kph) routinely tested the endurance of our tents and our stamina in the field. On more than one occasion, we were, quite literally, very nearly blown away by the experience. On the upside, the cold winds kept rumoured onslaughts of biting insects to a bare minimum. Lacking any insulating layers of body fat, I often found myself fashionably decked out in a Mustang survival suit over top a goose down parka, followed by a goose down vest, wind breaker, sweater, with excitement. At night, we were lulled to sleep by mournful wails of Common Loons, pitiful sighs of Pacific Loons, the pumping of distant bitterns, cackling parties of Snow Geese, hee-haw braying of Stilt Sandpipers, yodelling Tundra Swans and Sandhill Cranes, whoo-ooshing Wilson's Snipe, and ticking Yellow Rails. Rhythmic snoring sounds, which droned from all six tents, rounded out the symphony. After enjoying a hearty breakfast each morning, we donned heavy daypacks, broke into pairs, and scattered in different directions, aiming to cover as much territory as possible. A typical day's outing entailed hiking 10-20 kilometres, mostly slogging through mucky expanses of shallow marsh, either in hip waders or rubber boots. Peter and Colin camped in the distant tree line one night to better document species that weren't FALL 2004, NUMBER 29 5 otherwise present on the tundra. Otherwise, over the camp daily on foraging forays we normally returned to base camp each to the coast. A splendid adult Peregrine Falcon sailed low overhead one day. Safety was key. Personal GPS units afternoon. But the oddest bird of the trip allowed us to pin-point our locations to was the Mourning Dove that Don found within a few metres and efficiently navigate – hundreds of kilometres north of its to and fro. For personal protection against known breeding range. There were bears, one person in each crew lugged a some other oddball things, like a Yellow shotgun loaded with “cracker shells,” Warbler nest that was almost entirely which are fired into the air and explode made out of white ptarmigan feathers, loudly. Everyone also carried a variety of and a robin nest that didn't contain any other noisemakers. In the event of a truly mud. Presumably because they so life-threatening encounter, 12-gauge slugs could be brought into play. Miniature seldom encounter people, we were walkie-talkies, with an effective range of struck by the relative fearlessness of about 5 kilometres, allowed us to maintain many animals. Willow Ptarmigan were contact with one another in the field. A especially “tame.” The contents of one satellite phone provided scheduled daily Hudsonian Godwit's nest couldn't be communications with OMNR staff in Moosonee. By far the most common bird on the open tundra was Savannah Sparrow, which nested abundantly in the wet meadows. Horned Lark and Lapland and Smith's longspurs were also common in open areas. Among the trees and shrubs, Common Redpoll, White-crowned Sparrow, and American Tr e e S p a r r o w w e r e common. Pine Grosbeak, White-winged Crossbill, Ruby-crowned Kinglet, Boreal Chickadee, Gray Hudsonian Godwit/Barge hudsonienne Jay, and a smattering of boreal warblers documented without very carefully lifting could be found farther back in the tree line. the female off her eggs. On the shorebird side, Dunlin, Least Attesting to the harsh living conditions Sandpiper, Stilt Sandpiper, and Wilson's that birds face in the north, the immense Snipe seemed to be everywhere. American Snow Goose colony failed completely this Golden-Plover, Whimbrel, and Hudsonian summer. Thousands of geese built nests and Godwit were scattered here and there. In laid partial clutches, only to abandon them addition to lots of Canada Geese, Snow because of the wintry summer. Predators Geese, and Tundra Swans, ponds were and scavengers, which would normally occupied by good numbers of Green- have feasted on a rich harvest of goose eggs winged Teal, Northern Pintail, Northern and goslings, were left with slim pickings. Shoveler, Long-tailed Duck, and Greater Scaup. A small colony of Common Eiders Other Brutes Big nested out on the Pen Islands themselves. and Small Definite highlights of our expedition included Ontario's first documented nestings for Hoary Redpoll, along with Among other things, the Pen Islands some of the province's few nests ever region is noted for being the calving recorded for Stilt Sandpiper, Hudsonian grounds for several thousand woodland Godwit, American Golden-Plover, Red- caribou. When summer temperatures necked Phalarope, and Parasitic Jaeger. We climb, the herd normally treks out to the also added an exceptional number of nest coastal tundra in order to calve and enjoy records for Dunlin, Least Sandpiper, and the cool winds that keep biting insect Savannah Sparrow. populations down to a tolerable level. Though they probably don't nest in the However, this summer's unusual cold kept immediate region, several Bald Eagles flew most of the herd well inland, and we saw 6 BIRDWATCH CANADA A glint of sunlight in her eye was all that alerted Jon McCracken to this nesting Hudsonian Godwit. Un reflet dans l’oeil de cette Barge hudsonienne a permis à Jon McCracken de la découvrir sur son nid. only a few towards the end of the expedition. The region is also normally an exceptional summering area for up to 200 polar bears, one of the highest densities in the world. But because of the late break up of the ice pack, the bears very agreeably remained far out on Hudson Bay, happily hunting seals. At this time of year, black bears with any sense would normally remain well back in the tree line, to avoid fatal conflicts with their much larger, more powerful, and more aggressive cousins. But this wasn't a normal year, and so a large male black bear took advantage of the situation, swaggering in the vicinity of our camp for the duration. All muscle and fat, “Brutus” was in topnotch condition. Like us, he found the smells wafting from our cook tent irresistible. After somehow tip-toeing over our elaborate alarm system one night and lumbering off with one of our precious food chests, he became a routine nuisance thereafter. Luckily, we had decades of Marty's bear experience to draw upon, and there were no more successful break-ins. Still, we had to be on guard against Brutus day and night, which meant that someone always had to remain in camp to baby-sit the food. Hungry, bold, and determined, Brutus had to be scared off at close quarters on more than a dozen occasions. Arctic foxes were quite common, feasting on whatever bird nests that Brutus missed. Red foxes, skunks, voles, muskrats, and snowshoe hares also shared the area. One day, a river otter loped along the ridge opposite the camp. On another, Don had the supreme fortune to peak around the side of the kitchen tent to see a wolverine sniffing at our doorstep. On our flight back to civilization, several pods of beluga whales elegantly cruised the bay in tight formation. and confident that some of the mysteries of the region had been unravelled. The Hudson Bay coast was socked in by heavy fog when we awoke on 7 July, our scheduled date of departure. It looked like we'd be stranded for a while. But the wind shifted to the south, just a little, clearing the skies by noon. Marty radioed the pilot, who was standing by in Moosonee, to give him the thumb's up. We pulled camp in record time and all too suddenly departed. Although the prospect of a comfortable bed, hot shower, and a cold beer was more than a little appealing, an unmistakable sense of “home” had also taken root. It was sad to go. Many Thanks Arctic Foxes enjoyed many meals from ground nests. Les renards arctiques se nourrissent régulièrement d’oeufs qu’ils trouvent dans les nids d’oiseaux nichant au sol. This expedition, which was one of several to Ontario's north country this year, was an exceptional privilege. We owe a special thanks to the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and the Natural Heritage Information Centre for logistics and the loan of equipment. The Canadian Wildlife Service, Bird Studies Canada's James L. Baillie Memorial Fund, and the Ontario Trillium Foundation also provided valuable support. Detailed information on the Ontario Breeding Bird Atlas is available on the web at www.birdsontario.org. Dunlin/Bécasseau variable Pacific Loons/Plongeons du Pacifique Smith's Longspurs were a common sight. Les Bruants de Smith étaient nombreux. Parting Thoughts Despite the exceptionally late summer, we recorded 96 species of birds (plus 1 hybrid). Following standard Atlas guidelines, breeding was “confirmed” for 30 species. We documented 109 nests of 29 species. Evidence for “probable” breeding was obtained for 27 species; and 32 more were documented as “possible” breeders (most of which undoubtedly nest in the region). Another 8 species were judged not to nest within the immediate study area. Over 250 field hours were logged, and we conducted over 100 point counts in order to document species abundance across a range of sub-arctic habitats. We were “data rich” The Crew (from left to right): back row - Colin Jones, Peter Burke, Jon McCracken, Ron Ridout; front row - Don Sutherland and Marty Obbard L’équipe (de gauche à droite) : derrière : Colin Jones, Peter Burke, Jon McCracken et Ron Ridout; devant : Don Sutherland et Marty Obbard. FALL 2004, NUMBER 29 7 Expédition à l'intérieur des basses-terres de la baie d'Hudson La nouvelle nous est parvenue l'hiver dernier. M. Don Sutherland, zoologiste pour le Centre d'information sur le patrimoine naturel (CIPN) du ministère des Richesses naturelles de l'Ontario (MRNO), était à la recherche de bénévoles pour former une équipe de six personnes qui aurait comme mission de récolter des données à l'intérieur des basses-terres de la baie d'Hudson pour le compte de l'Atlas des oiseaux nicheurs de l'Ontario. L'offre était trop belle pour la laisser filer : Ron Ridout et moi-même, tous deux à l'emploi d'Études d'Oiseaux Canada, avons sauté sur l'occasion. Ont fait de même, Marty Obbard, biologiste au MRNO, Colin Jones, biologiste au CIPN, et Peter Burke, biologiste et peintre naturaliste. La région des îles Pen, où se sont effectués les recensements au cours de deux semaines, se situe à l'extrémité nord-ouest de l'Ontario, tout à côté de la frontière avec le Manitoba; en fait, il n'existe aucun autre endroit situé plus au nord à l'intérieur la province. Même si la région a été désignée comme une Zone importante pour la conservation des oiseaux au niveau mondial, nous ne possédons encore que très peu de données sur la vie ornithologique qui s'y déroule au cours de l'été. Notre mission était de recenser les espèces qui se trouvaient dans un secteur qui couvrait près de 200 kilomètres carrés. Pas de problème! Une fois à destination, nous avons tout de suite eu l'impression d'être des explorateurs de l'ère moderne. Chaque jour nous apportait de nouvelles découvertes et situations. Nous étions emplis d'excitation et fébriles de connaître ce qui nous attendait. Le soir, nous nous endormions en nous laissant bercer par la plainte mélancolique des Plongeons huards, en imaginant les parades aériennes effectuées par le Bécasseau à échasses et la Bécassine de Wilson qui se déroulaient à côté et en devinant les allées et venues discrètes du Râle jaune. Les données amassées sur le terrain révèlent que le Bruant des prés était de loin l'espèce la plus commune à l'intérieur de la toundra, ce dernier nichant en grand nombre dans les prés humides. Parmi les autres espèces communes en milieux ouverts, on retrouvait l'Alouette hausse-col ainsi que 8 BIRDWATCH CANADA les Bruants lapon et de Smith. Durant notre séjour, nous avons noté un grand nombre de Sizerins flammés, de Bruants à couronne blanche et de Bruants hudsoniens dans les secteurs boisés ou arbustifs. Quant au Durbec des sapins, au Bec-croisé bifascié, au Roitelet à couronne rubis, à la Mésange à tête brune, au Mésangeai du Canada et à un petit nombre de parulines associées à la forêt boréale, ils ont été observés dans les milieux forestiers situés à l'intérieur des terres. Du côté des oiseaux de rivage, nous avons remarqué que la Bécassine de Wilson ainsi que les Bécasseaux variable, minuscule et à échasses étaient présents presque partout alors que le Pluvier bronzé, le Courlis corlieu et la Barge hudsonienne se retrouvaient ici et là. Nous avons également Le Lagopède des saules tolérait facilement notre présence. Willow Ptarmigan were particularly tolerant of our company. Jon et Marty devant un bloc erratique. Jon and Marty pose in front of a large glacial erratic. relevé un grand nombre de Bernaches du Canada, d'Oies des neiges et de Cygnes siffleurs ainsi qu'un bon nombre de Sarcelles d'hiver, de Canards pilets, de Canards souchets, d'Hareldes kakawis et de Fuligules milouinans sur les étangs. Une petite colonie d'Eider à duvet était aussi présente sur les îles. La première mention de nidification de Sizerin blanchâtre en Ontario ainsi que la découverte d'un des rares nids de Bécasseau à échasses, de Barge hudsonienne, de Pluvier bronzé, de Phalarope à bec étroit et de Labbe parasite à avoir été rapportés dans la province figurent parmi les moments forts de notre séjour. Nos recensements ont également permis d'ajouter un nombre exceptionnel de nids de Bécasseau variable, de Bécasseau minuscule et de Bruant des prés aux données de l'atlas. Malgré le fait que l'été ait été très tardif, nous avons réussi à recenser 96 espèces d'oiseaux, sans compter un ur de hybride. Nous avons également rapporté 109 nids, lesquels ont été notés chez 29 espèces différentes. Selon le protocole utilisé pour l'atlas, la nidification a été confirmée chez 30 espèces. Selon les indices, la nidification a été qualifiée de «probable» chez 27 autres espèces et de «possible» chez 32 autres, la plupart nichant sans contredit dans la région. Enfin, 8 espèces ont été considérées comme ne nichant pas à l'intérieur de l'aire d'étude et dans la région environnante. Nous avons consacré plus de 250 heures à l'étude et effectué des recensements à plus de 100 sites en vue de recueillir des données concernant l'abondance des espèces à l'intérieur d'habitats spécifiques à la région subarctique. Nous avons accumulé un nombre impressionnant de données et sommes confiants qu'elles nous aideront à éclaircir certains mystères associés à cette région.