Instructions and free patterns

Transcription

Instructions and free patterns
www.mybernette.com
“Romantic style” project sewing instructions
Frilly blouse
Sizes 34–
34– 42 European (4(4- 12 US/6US/6- 14 UK)
You'll need
-
1.2m (1 3/8 yd) pink taffeta (fabric width 1.5m (5'))
0.45m (½ yd) white tulle (fabric width 1.5m (5'))
0.50 m (1/2 yd) pink voile (fabric width 1.5m (5'))
1.5m (1 2/3 yd) satin ribbon, approx. 4mm (1/6") wide
Assorted sewing and embroidery threads in pink
Embroidery stabilizer for the facing
Spray adhesive
Sewing thread to match the color of the fabric
Gathering foot
Cording foot
Fabric recommendation
re commendation
Taffeta or other shiny, slightly crisp fabric for the blouse. Sheer fabrics that can be
gathered with the gathering foot for the frills.
Good to know
The decorative stitches will cause the fabric to shrink slightly, so be sure to add 2.5cm
(1") seam allowance to the outer facing when cutting it out. After embellishing the facing
with decorative stitching, reposition the paper pattern on the stitched fabric and trim the
seam allowance to 1.5cm (5/8").
Cutting out
Seam allowances
allowances – When cutting out, add 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance to all edges
and the hem, and 1cm (3/8") to armhole curves.
Pink taffeta
2 x front
1 x back to fabric fold
2 x facing
2 x belt loops: 1.5cm x 8cm (5/8" x 3 ¼"), including seam allowance
1 x belt: 8cm x 66cm (3 ¼" x 26"), including seam allowance
2 x bias binding for armhole, cut on cross-grain: 4cm x 47cm (1 5/8" x 18 1/2")
Sheer voile, taffeta,
taffeta, or tulle
Tear or cut (depending on the fabric's texture) 2cm- (7/8"-) wide strips for the frill on the
facing. Gather the strips with the gathering foot (see user instructions for the foot).
Stitch the finished strips together to yield a single strip with a total length of approx.
1.5m (5').
How to proceed
Closing and neatening the seams
1. Close shoulder seams; press the allowances apart and neaten. Neaten the outer
edge of the lower facing.
2. Close the bust darts as marked on the pattern piece and press them downwards.
Binding the armholes
3. Bias-bind the armholes. For this, press the bias binding in half and place it right
sides together along the armhole with one edge flush with the armhole edge. Stitch
the bias binding to the armhole 1cm (3/8") in from the edge. Trim the seam
allowances and notch them in the curves. Turn the bias binding over onto the wrong
side of the armhole and stitch it on all around approx. 8mm (1/3") in from the edge.
Embellishing and attaching the facing
4. Spray a little adhesive onto the cut-out embroidery stabilizers and place them under
the outer facing.
5. Embellish the facing with assorted decorative stitches and sewing threads. Use the
cording foot to couch the cords and ribbons and attach the frilly trim with a straight
stitch. Give free rein to your imagination. Try out the decorative stitches on a
remnant of stabilized fabric first if wished. Reduce the thread tension slightly if the
stitches cause the fabric to pucker.
6. Cut out the embellished facing as described at the beginning of these instructions,
then place it right sides together on the lower facing. Stitch both facings together
along the center front edge. Turn the facing right side out, press the edges, and
edge-stitch along the neckline if necessary.
Vordere Mitte = Center front
7. Sew the (embellished) outer facing to the blouse with right sides together. Turn the
facing right side out, press the seam allowance into the front facing, and stitch the
inner facing in the ditch from the right side.
Belt loops and belt
8. Fold under both edges of each belt loop by 5mm (1/4"). Press, then sew with a
zigzag stitch (finished width of each strip = 5mm or ¼"). Make two loops for the belt
and pin them to the side seams approx. 4cm (1 5/8") below the waistline marking.
Now close the side seams, including the loops as you stitch them.
9. Fold belt in half lengthwise. Fold the seam allowances under on the long and short
edges. Press, then edge-stitch the entire belt together. Draw the belt through the
loops.
Hem
10. Fold under and press the hem 5mm (1/4"), then 1cm (3/8"). Hem with a
straightstitch approx. 8mm (1/3") in from the edge.
Frilly
Frilly skirt
Sizes 34–42 European (4-12 US/6-14 UK)
You'll need
-
0.8 m (7/8 yd) pink taffeta, 1.5m (5') wide
Tulle, voile or sheer taffeta remnant for frill on facing
1.4m (1 5/8 yd) cord approx. 4mm (1/6") wide, and thin satin ribbon for decoration
5-8 small glass beads
In-seam zipper, 22cm (8 2/3") long
Gathering foot
Walking foot
Invisible-zipper foot
For the skirt/outer sections – Taffeta or other shiny, slightly crisp fabric.
For the lining/petticoat – Sheer, stiff fabric such as taffeta, voile or tulle.
Good to know
To achieve a trendy effect, the tulle or voile underskirts are not hemmed, but merely cut
off or torn, eliminating the need to add on a hem allowance along the bottom edges of
the voile or tulle.
Depending on the fabric thickness, a fairly thin interfacing may be necessary for the
yoke.
Cutting out
For the skirt:
P ink taffeta
2 x front yoke to fabric fold
2 x back yoke to fabric fold
2 x strip (30cm x 146cm (12" x 59")) for the bottom skirt panel
For the petticoat:
White tulle
1 x strip (28cm x 146cm (11" x 59") for the middle skirt panel
2 x strip (16cm x 146cm (6 ½" x 59") for the bottom skirt panel
Pink voile
3 x strip (12cm x 146cm (5" x 59") for the bottom skirt panel
For the unattached frills that hang down, tear or cut (depending on the texture of the
fabric) 2cm- (4/5"-) wide strips in the entire width of the fabric. Gather the strips with the
gathering foot (see user instructions for the gathering foot). Cut the frilly strips into
different lengths.
How to proceed
Outer yoke
1. Place a front and back yoke section together with right sides facing to form the
outer yoke. Stitch the left side seam closed. Press seam allowances apart and
neaten.
Inner yoke
2. Place the remaining front and back yoke sections right sides together to form the
inner yoke. Stitch the right side seam closed and press seam allowances apart. Fold
under the seam allowance on the open edge, then press and straight-stitch about
1cm (3/8”) in from the edge.
Closing and gathering the skirt panels
3. Close all side seams on all skirt panels. Close the side seam on the bottom panel of
the skirt up to the zipper marking only. Neaten edges if necessary and press them
apart.
4. For the frilly effect, straight-stitch all top edges with a stitch length of 5mm (1/4").
Repeat 5mm (1/4") from the first stitch line. Knot the lower threads of the straightstitched lines.
5.
Skirt: With right sides facing, insert the bottom edge of the yoke into the bottom skirt
panel. Pull the unknotted upper threads of the straight-stitched lines to gather the
skirt panel, matching the widths of the top skirt panel to those of the yoke sections.
Slip the ends of the frilly trim and satin ribbons in between at various points and pin.
Knot the threads of the straight-stitched lines. Sew skirt panel to yoke. Petticoat:
Gather the center skirt panel and sew it to the inner yoke. Pull the threads of the
straight-stitched lines of the two bottom skirt panels to gather the panels to the
same width as the bottom edge of the center skirt panel. Stitch the panels together.
Zipper
6. Sew the zipper into the open side seam of the outer yoke (see user instructions for
the zipper foot).
Stitching skirt and lining together
7. Slip the lining into the outer skirt section right sides facing and pin to the top edge.
Stitch the top edges together. Trim the seam allowances and turn the skirt right side
out. Topstitch the top edge about 5mm (1/4“) in from the edge, then stitch the two
skirt panels together in the ditch.
8.
Stitch petticoat to zipper by hand.
Completing the skirt
9. Loosen and carefully pull out all the threads from the straight-stitched lines.
10. Hang the skirt on a hanger and check whether you’d like to add more frills and satin
ribbons anywhere. Cut the frills and strips you’ve already attached to the length you
prefer. Roll the ends of the frills in slightly and straight-stitch the rolled ends. This
stops the frills from fraying and secures the thread ends. Should you wish to add
more decorative trim and ribbons, pin these to the petticoat, letting them protrude
by a couple of inches or more, and stitch them on.
11. Thread a few glass beads onto the satin ribbons and knot the ends to prevent the
beads from falling off.
Flower bracelet
Length 17cm (7”)
You’ll need
-
Remnant of pink taffeta
Remnant of tulle, voile, or sheer taffeta for the frills on the bracelet
5-8 small glass beads
Bracelet closure, 2cm (4/5”) wide
Gathering foot
Cutting out
Pink
Pink taffeta
1 strip 80cm x 10cm (32"x 4”), including seam allowances, for fabric flower
1 strip 6cm x 15cm (2 ½” x 6”), including seam allowances, for fabric flower
Pink voile
1 x strip, 2cm (4/5“) wide, for frill on bracelet. Depending on the texture of the fabric,
tear or cut the strip and gather it with the gathering foot, then trim the frilled strips to a
length of 13cm (5 1/4”).
How to proceed
Making the flower
1. Fold the strip for the fabric flower in half and straight-stitch the open edge with a
stitch length of 5mm (1/4”). Hold the lower thread firmly at both ends and gather
the strip along the two upper threads to approx. 40-43cm (16"-17").
2. Drape the strip into a spiral to form a flower. Hand-sew the bottom edge in place
with a few stitches.
Sewing the bracelet
3. Fold the bracelet lengthwise and turn the long and short edges under to the wrong
side. Edge-stitch the bracelet all around approx. 2mm (1/10”) in from the edge.
4. Now sew the frilly trim onto the bracelet and attach the closure on both ends.
Finishing the bracelet
5. Pin the flower to the center of the bracelet and stitch it on by hand.Sew on a few
glass beads in the center of the flower if wished.
Frilly cushion
Size 50cm x 50cm (20" x 20")
You'll need
-
0.55 m (2/3 yd) pink furnishing fabric, 1.5m (5’) wide
0.40 m (16") pink taffeta, 1.5m (5’) wide
Remnant of pink voile, 1.5m (5’) wide
1m (1 1/8 yd) satin ribbon, approx.. 4mm (1/6") wide
7 buttons, diameter approx. 1.8cm (¾")
Assorted decorative beads
Assorted sewing or embroidery threads in pink
Embroidery stabilizer for the facing and buttonholes
Spray adhesive
Gathering foot
Cording foot
Furnishing fabric, taffeta, or other shiny, crisp fabrics. Sheer fabrics that can be
gathered with the gathering foot for frills.
Good to know:
Depending on the fabric you are using, buttonholes and decorative stitches are more
attractive if tear-away stabilizer is placed underneath them. Reduce the thread tension
slightly in case the decorative stitches cause the fabric to pucker.
Cutting out:
Seam allowances need not be added, since they are already included in the
measurements (1cm (3/8)").
Furnishing fabric: 1 rectangle 52cm x 90cm (20 ½" x 1 yd) for the pillow case.
Taffeta: 1 strip 52 x 27cm (20 ½" x 10 2/3") for decorative facing, and 2 strips 12cm x
150cm and 12cm x 105cm (4 ¾" x 1 2/3 yd and 4 ¾" x 1 ¼ yd for the frilled edge
Voile: 2 strips for frills in assorted lengths and widths
Embroidery stabilizer:
For decorative front facing
How to proceed
Embellishing the facing
1. Spray a little adhesive onto the cut-out embroidery stabilizer and place it under the
facing.
2.
Now give free rein to your imagination and embellish the facing with decorative
stitching, keeping a distance of 9cm (3 ½") to one long edge, and 2cm (4/5") to
the other. Use assorted decorative stitch patterns and sewing threads. Use the
cording foot to couch cords and ribbons (sewing instructions come with the
respective presser foot) and sew on the frilly trim with a straight stitch. Try out the
decorative stitches on a remnant of stabilized fabric first, if wished.
Buttonholes
3. Fold under the wide unembroidered edge twice (by 4cm (1 1/2") each time). Mark
in the buttonholes at even intervals approx. 5mm (1/4") in from the edge and sew
on at right angles to the edge.
Frilly trim
4.
Sew the two 12cm- (4 ¾"-) wide taffeta strips together into one long strip. Fold
this strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing. Stitch the two open edges
together in presser-foot width from the edge, using the straightstitch and the
maximum stitch length and leaving the thread ends uncut at the beginning and
end. Holding the lower thread tight, carefully gather the whole strip to 150cm (5’)
by pulling the upper thread. Knot the upper and lower threads together. Evenly
distribute the frills thus created over the entire length of the strip. Slightly fold under
the narrow edges twice, then narrow-edgestitch the hem.
Inserting the frilly trim and closing the seams
5. Neaten the short edge of the underlap by folding it under 2cm (4/5") and
topstitching it. (Underlay is 6cm (2 1/3") wide.)
6.
With right sides together, place decorative facing on the opposite short edge of
the furnishing fabric with the buttonholes pointing toward the center. Turn over
furnishing fabric (right sides together). The total width of the case is now 50cm
(20"). Slip the frilly trim with the unneatened edge outward between the open
edges of the pillow. Stitch seams closed, catching the frilly trim as you do so.
7. Turn pillow case right side out. Sew on buttons and slip pillow into case.
Tips on Working with Fabrics
There are several important basic rules for cutting out and sewing fabrics. Here are a few tips
regarding our projects:
Cutting out
Selvedges
The approx. 1-cm (1/2“)-wide strips on both sides of the fabric are the selvedges. Because their texture is
generally different from that of the rest of the fabric, you must never include the selvedge in your
calculations. Nor is the selvedge suitable as a fabric seam allowance.
Fabric fold
The folded edge created when you lay both sides of the fabric together is the fabric fold. When cutting
out a pattern piece labelled with a fabric fold, lay it exactly on such a folded edge.
Fabric grain
The fabric grain is crucial for the correct drape of a garment. The grain marked on the pattern pieces
corresponds to the straight grain or warp of the fabric, and must run parallel to the selvedges.
With patterned fabrics, always pay attention to the direction of the grain and cut out fabrics in the same
direction.
Seam allowances
Cutting out seam allowances of equal width makes sewing easier later on. Use a measuring tape and
taylor’s chalk to draw the seam allowances onto the fabric all around the paper pattern pieces. As a rule,
you’ll need 4cm (1 1/2“) seam allowances for hems and 1.5cm (5/8“) on all other edges and seams.
(Where measurements differ, we’ve mentioned this in the instructions.)
Sewing
Sewing edges and seams
When sewing edges and seams, always place your fabric right sides together and sew together 1.5cm
(5/8“) in from the edge (same width as the seam allowance). The seam allowances are then pressed
apart, trimmed if necessary, and neatened with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker.
Sewing hems
When hemming, turn edges under twice from the right side to the wrong side of the fabric, iron along the
top edge, and sew. For a 4cm (1 1/2“) seam allowance the hem is first turned under 1cm (1/2“), then
again another 3cm (1 1/4“).
Machine stitch settings for straight stitch
Use the factory settings for sewing edges, seams and hems.
For topstitching, you can set stitch length to 3-3.5 mm.
Using interfacing
Use interfacing (or stabilizers) to reinforce fabric on facings, collars, etc. The best interfacing to use
depends on the fabric you’ve chosen. You’ll find commercially available interfacing in fabric stores. A
store assistant will be able to advise you as to which interfacing is suitable for your fabric, and on how to
iron it on.
Rock / Skirt / Jup
e
Back yoke
Vordere M
itt
Centre fro e Stoffbruch Fade
nlauf/
nt
Droit fil m straight grain on fo
ilieu endr
ld/
oit pli
se/
Rückwärtige Pas
/ Passant dos
10 x 10 cm
Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/
Centre back on fold straight grain/
Droit fil milieu envers pli
Legeplan zum Zusammenkleben der DIN A4-Seiten / Layout Plan for Gluing Together the DIN A4
Pages / Plan de disposition pour l'assemblage des pages DIN A4
Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 168 cm:
Grösse/ Size/ Taille
Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine
Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille
Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche
Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/
Longueur taille devant
Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
Vordere Passe/ Front yoke /
Passant avant
1
34
80
64
90
42
36
84
67
93
43
38
88
71
96
44
40
92
75
99
45
42
96
79
102
46
44
100
83
105
47
46
104
87
108
48
41
41
41
42
42
42
42
40
36,2
29,5
39
17,7
42
37,8
31,1
40,2
18
44
39,4
32,7
41,3
18,5
46
40,9
34,3
42,5
18,9
16,5
16,5
16,5
16,5
Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 66 Inch:
34
31,5
25,2
35,4
16,5
36
33
26,4
36,6
17
38
34,6
28
37,8
17,3
16
16
16
2
Legende/Legend/ Légend
Grösse/
Size/
Taille
34
36
38
40
42
44
46
Ausdrucken der Seiten:
Deaktivieren Sie die Funktion, dass die Seite automatisch an Blattgröße oder Druckbereich angepasst wird.
Es muss: „Seitenanpassung - Keine“ eingeschaltet sein. Nur so wird in Originalgrösse gedruckt, also 100%.
Zur Kontrolle des Ausdrucks das Kontroll-Viereck ausmessen
Printing out the pages:
Deactivate the function automatically adjusting the page to the paper size or printing area. ‘Page Adjustment
– None’ must be switched on. Only in this way will the pages print out in the original size, i.e. 100%.
To check the printout measure the test square.
Impression des pages
Désactiver la fonction pour que la page s'adapte automatiquement à la dimension de la feuille ou du secteur
d'impression. Activer "aucune" sur "adaptation de la page". Ce n'est qu'ainsi que la dimension originale
(100%) sera correctement imprimée.
Imprimer et vérifier l’envergure du carré.
1
Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/
Centre back on fold straight grain/
Droit fil milieu envers pli
10 x 10 cm
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
Vordere Passe/ Front yoke /
Passant avant
yoke
Vordere M
itte Stoffb
ruch Fad
Centre fr
enlauf/
ont straig
ht grain o
Droit fil m
n
fold/
ilieu endr
oit pli
1
cm
Inch
2
1
2
1
3
4
Rückwärtige Pas
/ Passant dos
2
5
se/ Back yoke
6
Rock / Skirt / Ju
pe
7
3
8
9
4
10
11
12
5
13
14
6
15
16
34
80
64
90
42
36
84
67
93
43
38
88
71
96
44
40
92
75
99
45
42
96
79
102
46
44
100
83
105
47
46
104
87
108
48
41
41
41
42
42
42
42
7
36
33
26,4
36,6
17
38
34,6
28
37,8
17,3
40
36,2
29,5
39
17,7
42
37,8
31,1
40,2
18
44
39,4
32,7
41,3
18,5
46
40,9
34,3
42,5
18,9
16
16
16
16,5
16,5
16,5
16,5
18
19
8
34
31,5
25,2
35,4
16,5
2
17
20
9
Grösse/
Size/
Taille
34
36
38
40
42
44
46
10
25
Legeplan zum Zusammenkleben der DIN A4-Seiten / Layout Plan for Gluing Together the DIN A4
Pages / Plan de disposition pour l'assemblage des pages DIN A4
cm
2
3
4
2
5
6
7
3
Rückwärtige Mitte Naht /
Centre back seam /
Milieu envers couture
Inch
1
1
8
9
4
10
11
12
5
13
14
6
15
16
17
7
18
19
8
1
Bluse/ Blouse/ Blouse
4
34
80
64
90
42
36
84
67
93
43
38
88
71
96
44
40
92
75
99
45
42
96
79
102
46
44
100
83
105
47
41
41
41
42
42
42
42
40
36,2
29,5
39
17,7
42
37,8
31,1
40,2
18
44
39,4
32,7
41,3
18,5
46
40,9
34,3
42,5
18,9
16,5
16,5
16,5
16,5
34
31,5
25,2
35,4
16,5
36
33
26,4
36,6
17
38
34,6
28
37,8
17,3
16
16
16
25
12
30
13
35
14
15
40
6
34
36
38
40
42
44
46
Vorderteil / front / élément avant
Vordere Mitte Fadenlauf/
Centre front straight grain/
Droit fil milieu endroit
Grösse/
Size/
Taille
3
11
46
104
87
108
48
7
10
5
2
Rückenteil/ Back / dos
20
9
Blende / Facing / Revers
Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/ Centre back on fold straight grain/ Droit fil milieu envers pli
10 x 10 cm
8
9
Ausdrucken der Seiten:
Deaktivieren Sie die Funktion, dass die Seite automatisch an Blattgröße oder Druckbereich angepasst wird.
Es muss: „Seitenanpassung - Keine“ eingeschaltet sein. Nur so wird in Originalgrösse gedruckt, also 100%.
Zur Kontrolle des Ausdrucks das Kontroll-Viereck ausmessen
Printing out the pages:
Deactivate the function automatically adjusting the page to the paper size or printing area. ‘Page Adjustment
– None’ must be switched on. Only in this way will the pages print out in the original size, i.e. 100%.
To check the printout measure the test square.
Impression des pages
Désactiver la fonction pour que la page s'adapte automatiquement à la dimension de la feuille ou du secteur
d'impression. Activer "aucune" sur "adaptation de la page". Ce n'est qu'ainsi que la dimension originale
(100%) sera correctement imprimée.
Imprimer et vérifier l’envergure du carré.
1
10 x 10 cm
1
/ Droit fil milieu envers pli
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
2
10
11
2
1
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
9
25
Rückwärtige Mitte Naht /
Centre back seam /
Milieu envers couture
cm
Inch
2
1
3
3
4
Rückenteil/ Back / dos
4
Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/ Centre back on fold straight grain/ Droit
5
11
12
5
30
13
35
14
15
40
6
Blende / Facing / Revers
6
7
34
80
64
90
42
36
84
67
93
43
38
88
71
96
44
40
92
75
99
45
42
96
79
102
46
44
100
83
105
47
46
104
87
108
48
41
41
41
42
42
42
42
34
31,5
25,2
35,4
16,5
36
33
26,4
36,6
17
38
34,6
28
37,8
17,3
40
36,2
29,5
39
17,7
42
37,8
31,1
40,2
18
44
39,4
32,7
41,3
18,5
46
40,9
34,3
42,5
18,9
16
16
16
16,5
16,5
16,5
16,5
Grösse/
Size/
Taille
7
34
36
38
40
42
44
46
Vordere Mitte Fadenlauf/
Centre front straight grain/
Droit fil milieu endroit
8
Vorderteil / front / élément avant
8
9
9

Instructions and free patterns

Transcription

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