la belle vie en vélo the cycle of life

Three days, three chefs, three routes through beautiful Kelowna
Trois jours, trois chefs, trois itinéraires dans la magnifique région de Kelowna
Story by/par Deb Cummings • Illustrations by/par Wes Dauncey
Tantalus Vineyard.
Right: Carmelis Goat Cheese;
Okanagan Lavender Herb
Farm; Okanagan Grocery
Artisan Bread. Inset: Deb
Cummings (left) and Jocelyn
Colquhoun.
Le vignoble Tantalus;
À droite, de haut en bas :
Fromages de chèvre de
Carmelis; lavende de
l'Okanagan Lavender Herb
Farm; le pain d'Okanagan
Artisan Bread.Encart : Deb
Cummings (à g.) et son amie
Jocelyn Colquhoun.
44 August 2014 upmagazine.com
Tk
Tk
Tantalus Vineyards photo by Brian Sprout/Tourism Kelowna, Lavender & Herb Farm photo by Salt Food Photography/Tourism Kelowna, Artisan Bread photo by David McIlvride,/Spatula Media, Deb and Jocelyn photo by Scott Lazenby
THE CYCLE OF LIFE
LA BELLE VIE EN VÉLO
I
f you’d like to indulge your
inner foodie in Kelowna,
B.C., without expanding your
waistline, consider padding
your dining itinerary with plenty
of cycling. That’s what my friend
Jocelyn and I dedided to do on
a recent getaway to this land of
artisan farms, family-run orchards and prolific gardens. But
we added a second twist. After
renting road and mountain bikes
from Kelowna’s Fresh Air Concept store, we asked three local
chefs to take us on their favourite
food-friendly rides.
Three days, three chefs, three
routes—all starting from our
home base at the Hotel Eldorado.
Here’s a taste of each one.
À
Kelowna, pour satisfaire votre appétit
gastronomique sans
gagner en tour de taille,
envisagez d’agrémenter votre
itinéraire gourmand de beaucoup
de vélo. C’est ce que nous avons
fait avec mon amie Jocelyn lors de
notre dernière escapade dans cette
région de fermes artisanales, de
vergers familiaux et de jardins
prolifiques. De plus, nous y avons
ajouté une autre variante. Après
avoir loué des vélos de route sans
oublier des VTT chez Fresh Air
Concept, nous avons demandé à
trois chefs locaux de nous faire
découvrir leurs balades gastronomiques préférées.
Trois jours, trois chefs, trois -itinéraires avec pour point de départ
l’hôtel Eldorado où nous séjournions. Découvrez un avant-goût de
chacun d’entre eux.
August 2014 westjet.com
45
97
Ok
a
an
Day 1 • 1er jour
L ak
esh
ore
dL
Rd
or
an
ier
df
e
3
Arlo’s Honey Farm/
Ferme apicole d’Arlo
uc
Be
Sa
Okanagan Lake
Lac Okanagan
Sallow Rd
2
Sunshine Farm/ La
ferme Sunshine
Local Chef: Geoffrey Couper, former
head of the Okanagan Chefs
Association. Route Highlights:
1. Hotel Eldorado, 2. Sunshine Farm
on Saucier Road, 3. Arlo’s Honey
Farm on Bedford Lane. Distance:
25.7 km on road bikes
De g. à dr. dans
le sens habituel : Le rivage du
lac Okanagan; l'hôtel
Eldorado; cuisine à
la ferme Sunshine;
John Alcock à la
ferme Sunshine;
l'apicultrice Helen
Kennedy
H
e may work as a chef and culinary
instructor for a living, but lean,
spandex-clad Geoffrey Couper looks
more like he belongs at the front of
a peloton. Luckily, he assures us there will be
no old-school tight-cycling terror on this trip.
Instead, he leads us on an easy climb through
the tidy hills in the southeast of Kelowna to
Sunshine Farm—a favourite fresh-produce
spot for local chefs. We meet up with farmer
Jon Alcock, who tours us around his 12.5acre spread, pointing out his seven colours of
carrots, Malabar spinach and Dragon Tongue
mustard—just some of the organic produce he
supplies to restaurants in town.
We then nab a spot at one of Alcock’s Earth
to Table meals, held outside next to his woodfired oven (which, on this day, is producing
walnut pesto pizzas). After too many courses
to count, we take our homemade sour cherry
panna cotta popsicles on our bikes and head to
our next stop, Arlo’s, where beekeeper Helen
Kennedy awaits. Take a pre-booked tour here
and you’ll learn that Kennedy gets her queen
bees every May from Kona, Hawaii, that your
average busy bee produces less than half a
teaspoon of honey in its lifetime and that
Kennedy’s 14-acre farm supports 200 beehives,
each one home to 60,000 bees.
The rest of the day’s cycle is a gentle
downhill cruise back to town where we slurp
Gewürztraminer slushies on the lakefront
patio at the El.
46 August 2014 upmagazine.com
Le chef local : Geoffrey Couper,
ancien dirigeant de l’association des
chefs de l’Okanagan. Itinéraire : 1.
Hôtel Eldorado, 2. Ferme Sunshine sur
Saucier Road, 3. Ferme apicole d’Arlo
sur Bedford Lane. Distance : 25,7 km
en vélo de route
B
ien qu’ancien dirigeant de l’association
des chefs de l’Okanagan, Geoffrey
Couper, bien mince dans sa tenue de
cycliste, ressemble plus à un coureur de
tête de peloton. Heureusement, il nous garantit
que l’on ne va pas se faire la vieille frayeur de
rouler dangereusement, trop serrés. En effet, il
nous précède sur une montée facile à travers les
collines bien ordonnées du sud-est de Kelowna
jusqu’à la ferme Sunshine, lieu de prédilection
des chefs locaux pour ses produits frais. Nous y
rencontrons le fermier John Alcock qui nous fait
visiter sa propriété de 12,5 acres. Il nous montre
ses sept différentes couleurs de carottes, ses
épinards de Malabar et sa moutarde brune, un
échantillon seulement des produits biologiques
qu’il fournit aux restaurants de la ville.
Puis, nous trouvons une table dans l’un des
espaces de restaurations Earth to Table de John
Alcock (de la terre à la table), situé en plein air à
côté de son four au feu de bois, qui ce jour-là cuit
des pizzas au pesto de noix. Après une succession
innombrable de plats, nous prenons des glaces
faites maison à la panna cotta et à la cerise acide et
remontons sur nos vélos jusqu’à chez Arlo, l’étape
suivante, où l’apicultrice Helen Kennedy nous
attend. Avec une visite guidée réservée à l’avance,
vous apprendrez qu’Helen Kennedy fait venir, tous
les ans en mai, les reines des abeilles de la région
de Kona à Hawaï, que l’abeille courante produit
moins d’une demi-cuillère à café de miel pendant
sa durée de vie et que sa ferme de 14 acres compte
200 ruches avec 60 000 abeilles par ruche.
La balade en vélo de la journée s’achève en
dévalant des pentes douces vers la ville pour aller
boire à grand bruit des barbotines au Gewürztraminer sur la terrasse du bord du lac de notre hôtel.
August 2014 westjet.com
47
Arial Kelowna photo courtesy of Tourism Kelowna, Arlo's photo by Christina Symons/Tourism Kelowna, Hotel Eldorado photo by Shawn Talbot,
Rd
Photos, clockwise
from top left: The
shores of Okanagan
Lake; Hotel Eldorado;
preparing treats at
Sunshine Farm; John
Alcock at Sunshine
Farm; beekeeper
Helen Kennedy.
Hotel Eldorado/
Hôtel Eldorado 1
Day 2 • 2e jour
Local Chef: Ross Derrick, restaurant chef at Delta Grand
Resort. Route Highlights: 1. Mission Greenway, 2. Kelowna
Farmers’ Market, 3. Springfield Road to Codfathers’ Fish
Market, 4. Okanagan Grocery Artisan Breads, 5. Delta Grand
Hotel Distance: 24.77 km on mountain bikes
Photos clockwise: Lime-cured
pink wild salmon
appetizer from
97
Codfathers; Okanagan Grocery
33
Rutland
Rd
Artisan Breads;
Kelowna
Farmers’ Market.
Delta Grand Hotel/
Hôtel Delta Grand
97
Harvey Ave
Codfathers’ Fish Market/
Marché aux poissons Codfathers
3
4
Kelowna Farmers’ Market/ 2
Marché fermier de Kelowna
Okanagan Grocery Artisan Breads/
Boulangerie Okanagan Grocery Artisan Breads
Okanagan Lake
Lac Okanagan
Mission Greenway/ 1
Sentier Mission Greenway
48 August 2014 upmagazine.com
Photos dans le sens habituel :
Saumon rose sauvage en saumure de lime chez Codfathers;
boulangerie Okanagan Grocey
Artisan Breads; marché fermier
de Kelowna
O
n the morning of Day
Two, Chef Ross Derrick
greets us in the El’s
parking lot with empty
knapsacks and panniers, eager to
beat the Saturday crowds at B.C.’s
largest farmers’ market. Soon
we’re riding along his favourite
city bike route, the 17.5-kilometrelong Mission Greenway that hugs
the leafy banks of Mission Creek.
We take the Greenway for just under 10 km to the Kelowna Farmers’ Market, where more than 165
vendors are selling everything
from twists of furry red sumac
to endless buckets of cherries,
apricots and peaches.
We pick up some of Derrick’s
favourite market bites, then
ride for a few minutes to two
of his other regular Saturday
stops—Codfathers and Okanagan Grocery Artisan Bread, both
in Guisachan Village. Like any
true-blue fishmonger, “Codfather”
Jon Crofts regales us with stories,
as does his next-door neighbour
Monika Walker, the head baker,
who uses only sourdough starter
for the roughly 800 gorgeous
loaves she makes each day. With
heavily laden bikes, we wobble off
to the grounds of the Delta Grand
for an extraordinary picnic and a
slice of cabana culture.
L
e chef Ross Derrick nous
accueille sur le parc de
stationnement de l’hôtel
avec des sacs à dos et des
sacoches vides, pressé d’éviter
la foule du samedi du marché
fermier le plus grand de C.-B. Nous
prenons aussitôt sa piste cyclable
préférée, la Mission Greenway de
17,5 km de long qui suit les berges
ombragées de Mission Creek. Nous
l’empruntons pour un peu moins
de 10 km jusqu’au marché fermier
de Kelowna, où plus de 165 commerçants vendent à peu près tout,
comme des épis de sumac rouge
touffu ou des tonnes de cerises,
abricots et pêches.
Nous achetons à manger
quelques-uns des produits préférés
de Ross Derrick, puis nous reprenons nos vélos pour quelques minutes jusqu’à Codfathers et Okanagan Grocery, deux de ses étapes
habituelles du samedi, situées
dans Guisachan Village. Comme
tout bon poissonnier, Jon Crofts
de Codfathers nous enchante avec
ses histoires, ainsi que sa voisine
d’à côté Monika Walker, chef de la
boulangerie, qui utilise uniquement
du levain pour les magnifiques 800
pains qu’elle fabrique tous les jours.
Enfin, nous vacillons sur nos
vélos lourdement chargés, jusqu’à
l’hôtel Delta Grand pour un merveilleux pique-nique et un aperçu
de la culture de la cabane.
Codfathers photo by Jasmin Dosanj Photography, Artisan Bread photo by David McIlvride/Spatula Media, Fruit Stand photo by Kerri-Jo Stewart/Tourism Kelowna
5
7
Le chef local : Ross Derrick, chef du restaurant du Delta Grand
Resort. Itinéraire : 1. Sentier Mission Greenway, 2. Marché fermier
de Kelowna, 3. Marché aux poissons Codfathers, 4. Boulangerie
Okanagan Grocery Artisan Breads, 5. Hôtel Delta Grand. Distance :
24,77 km en vélo de montagne
Get this card.
(Unless you like waiting to redeem.)
Redeem any amount, whenever you want.*
Check your seatback pocket
or visit rbc.com/wjoffer
to apply today.
Only available to residents of Canada. ®/TMTrademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. ‡All other
trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s). *WestJet dollars cannot be applied against taxes, fees or charges and can only be used to pay for all or
part of new WestJet-marketed and operated flights and vacation packages. Other restrictions may apply. Visit westjet.com/rewards for details.
K
français
Article
up! March 2014 | upmagazine.com | Volume 10 Issue 3
de fond en
up! April 2014 | upmagazine.com | Volume 10 Issue 4
up! May 2014 | upmagazine.com | Volume 10 Issue 5
C
k
ock re e
Articles
Take me with you
Maple treats in Ottawa/NASCAR racing in Myrtle Beach
Chilling in Cuba/Training in Scottsdale/Dining in Curaçao
Shopping in Beverly Hills/Racing in Fort Worth/Dining in Cabo
upmagazine.com May 2014
de fond en
français
upmagazine.com Apr. 2014
Take me with you
Experience 7
Articles
de fond en
français
upmagazine.com Mar. 2014
Dip into the
pool scene
Golf Guide
Course reviews, gear news
and Dustin Johnson
in Myrtle Beach
BUY-ON-BOARD
MENU
Issue 1
Take me with you
The Spa
& Wellness
Guide
6
Santa Barbara
Spring Break Getaways
Cozumel, Manzanillo,
Montego Bay and Oahu
INSIDE
upmagazine.com Jan. 2014
Take me with you
Escape to Mexico’s
peaceful retreat
Vancouver
Get the VIP
treatment
Winter
Escapes
Hawaii
Arizona
Florida
Dominican Republic
5
Dublin
delights
to discover
Bug cuisine in California/Gemstone facials in Turks & Caicos
Buy-on-Board
menu
inside
upmagazine.com dec. 2013
Take me with you
ultimate
Costa Rica ski Guide
Fitness tips, healthy trips
and restful retreats
downtown sights
to see
Explore the salty side
of this tropical paradise
La Paz
Racing in Palm Springs/Dining in Vancouver/Touring in Dallas
up! January 2014 | upmagazine.com | Volume 10
upmagazine.com Feb. 2014
Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911
Los Angeles, Chicago,
Phoenix, New York City
Ultimate
Issue 12
stops to
savour
Las Vegas
up! December 2013 | upmagazine.com | Volume 9
Charlottetown, Halifax, Montreal, Ottawa,
Toronto, Winnipeg, Yellowknife, Edmonton,
Vancouver and the Canadian Rockies
Sports Fan Getaways
Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911
6
Maui
Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911
Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911
The Look
This
Palm Springs
Shop, dine and
take in the scene
Romance in the Rockies/Saving time in Disneyland
up! February 2014 | upmagazine.com | Volume 10 Issue 2
Le chef local : Jeremy Luypen,
ancien chef cuisinier de Mission
H wy
33
Tap House. Itinéraire : 1. Lakeshore Road, 2. Fromagerie
Carmelis, 3. Vinerie Summerhill Pyramid
Distance : 69,34 km en vélo de route
One-of-a-kind adventures in
stops for the
design-inclined
Take me with you
Turks &
Caicos
Orlando
Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911
97
Local Chef: Jeremy Luypen, former executive chef of
Mission Tap House. Route Highlights: 1. Lakeshore
Road, 2. Carmelis Goat Cheese farm, 3. Summerhill
Pyramid Winery Distance: 69.34 km on road bikes
y
Rutland Rd
Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911
Harvey Ave
33
aR
Quebec City
Winter Carnival
dining spots
Choose your own adventure
in this tropical paradise
6
Puerto Vallarta
Hot spots for
art lovers
Resort reviews, gear news
and Canadian Olympic
hopeful Roz Groenewoud
7
Manhattan
spots for great
holiday shopping
Orlando
Behind the scenes at
Walt Disney World
Oahu
Discover the thrill
of lava sledding
U-12-13 cover Mock up 2.indd 1
ar t R
d
Okanagan Lake
Lac Okanagan
3
Summerhill Pyramid Winery/
Vinerie Summerhill Pyramid
L
sh
ake
ore
Rd
1
Lakeshore Road /
Lakeshore Road
2
Carmelis Goat Cheese farm/
Fromagerie Carmelis
Photos de haut en bas : Cave
d'affinage de Carmelis Goat
Cheese Artisan Inc.; vue de
la terrasse à la vinerie Summerhill Pyramid
J
eremy Luypen’s favourite
area to cycle is south of
town, along Lakeshore
Road. He leads the way as
we spin past wineries and orchards.
While we ride, it becomes clear
why the 250-km-long Okanagan
Valley is home to one of the longest running triathlons in North
America, the Kelowna Apple Triathlon—before us lies a huge lake
and sweeping mountains. We chug
up the hills along Okanagan Lake,
marvelling at the multi-milliondollar manses that hug the rocky
shoreline. Luypen comes to a stop
at Carmelis Goat Cheese, where
we sample 10 types of locally
made, additive-free goat cheese
for $2. Soon we’ve knocked off 60
km, so we stop at one of Luypen’s
top patio picks, Summerhill
Pyramid Winery, where we take
in the sprawling views of the lake,
pounce on the charcuterie platter
(which includes chunks of bison
sausage and candied salmon) and
toast to a safe ride back with a
flute of Cipes Brut. We also toast
to Kelowna, the cycling mecca
and foodie’s paradise that has
provided this perfect, savoury
summer getaway.
L
’endroit préféré de Jeremy
Luypen pour une balade
en vélo, est au sud de la
ville, le long de Lakeshore
Road. Il ouvre le chemin tandis
que nous passons des vineries et
des vergers. Sur nos vélos, comme
un lac immense et des montagnes
majestueuses s’offrent à nos yeux,
on commence à comprendre pourquoi la vallée de l’Okanagan, d’une
longueur de 250 km, accueille l’une
des plus anciennes compétitions de
l’Ironman de l’Amérique du Nord,
le Kelowna Apple Triathlon. On
progresse tant bien que mal dans
les collines longeant le lac Okanagan, en s’émerveillant devant les
manoirs de plusieurs millions
de dollars qui bordent le rivage
rocheux. Jeremy Luypen finit par
s’arrêter à la fromagerie de Carmelis, où nous goûtons une dizaine de
fromages de chèvre faits sur place
et sans additif pour le prix de 2 $.
Puis comme nous atteignons les
60 km, nous nous arrêtons à la
vinerie Summerhill Pyramid, sur
l’une des terrasses préférées de
Jeremy Luypen, d’où l’on embrasse
une vue panoramique sur le lac.
Nous nous jetons sur le plateau de
charcuterie, avec des morceaux de
saucisses de bisons et un confit de
saumon, et nous trinquons pour un
retour sans encombre avec une flûte
de Cipes Brut.
S’Y RENDRE WestJet dessert Kelowna 16 fois par jour au départ
de six villes canadiennes.
and other insiders
on dining in
Montreal
Toronto
New York City
Miami
Las Vegas
Vancouver
The Food Guide
6
Scottsdale
Stops on a Culinary
Walking Tour
Bahamas
Diving into
Pirate Paradise
Cancun
Celebrating
Day of the Dead
upmagazine.com June 2013
Take me with you
e
Ultimmatily
Fa ide
8
Gu
res
filled adventu
with fun Tracy Moore
host
In
Pages packed
with TV
Music Festivals
PLUS a chat
Montreal
Ottawa,
City
Power Shopping
Springs, and Quebec
in Palm
California
Eating Well in Sedona/Paragliding in Vancouver
up! July 2013 | upmagazine.com | Volume 9 Issue 7
up! June 2013 | upmagazine.com | Volume 9 Issue 6
Take me with you
Chef
Chuck
Hughes
U-10-13 cover Final.indd 1
GETTING THERE WestJet flies to Kelowna 16 times a day from
six Canadian cities.
50 August 2014 upmagazine.com
upmagazine.com Oct. 2013
Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911
Left, top to bottom: In the
aging cellar at Carmelis
Goat Cheese Artisan Inc.;
Patio view from Summerhill
Pyramid Winery.
upmagazine.com July 2013
Take me with you
Play Ball
Behind the Scenes
with Toronto Blue Jays
catcher J.P. Arencibia
7
San Francisco
Alleyways
to Explore
Chicago
A Family-Friendly
Getaway
inflight,
online,
or on any
device.
9/5/13 1:55 PM
U-7-13 cover Final.indd 1
Tijuana
Discover this Revitalized
Mexican Border Town
6/7/13 9:21 AM
Get more up!
creativity + originality + innovation
Take up! everywhere you go.
All past issues are available online,
which means you can get tips,
guides and stories anytime on
your mobile device.
INTERNATIONAL AWARD WINNING JEWELLERY DESIGNERS • SINCE 1972
946 Fort St, Victoria • 250-383-3414 • www.idar.com
/IdarJewellers
Summerhill Pyramid Winery photo courtesy of Tourism Kelowna
S wam
Gordon Dr
p Rd
7
DeH
up! October 2013 | upmagazine.com | Volume 9 Issue 10
Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911
The idar signature look - make it yours
Inflight
food and
entertainment
menu now
inside
11/5/13 10:41 AM
Please your palate on P.E.I./Kayaking in B.C.
Jian Ghomeshi/Harvest Dinners/Halloween Haunts
Return undeliverable addresses to: REDPOINT MEDIA GROUP INC. 100, 1900 - 11th St. S.E. Calgary, Alberta, T2G 3G2 | Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement Number PM40030911
Ok
anag
an
Day 3 • 3e jour
elo w n
Hw
Glenmore Rd
97
Gordon Dr
97
McCurdy Rd
Jewellery Designs © 2014 IDAR
@idarjewellers
Pack more
i to your stay.
From psychedelic music festivals to
eclectic art galleries, unforgettable stays
start downtown. Book your room today.
explore edmonton.com/downtown
August 2014 westjet.com
51